Switzerland & France 4th to 21st July 2019
A two centre holiday, I would be driving across France to Geneva for a week based in Lausanne, utilising the famous Swizz train network to visit other cities and tourist attractions. The following week would be a drive to the South of France to stay at a Gite (with pool) in Cessenon-sur-Orb.
Thursday 4th July
With a 4 ½ hour drive to Dover today I scoured the Whatpub app (& Tripadvisor reviews) to find a suitable lunch venue, I came up with the Green Dragon,Waterside, London Colney AL2 1RB. Ideal as we only had to come off the A1 one junction before the M25 and could then join the M25 afterwards.
Green Dragon, London Colney
The pub was excellent, as was the leafy riverside location all topped by a very good chicken & ham pie. I sampled a Fullers London Pride (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). The M25 was busy but moving well and I had paid the Dart Toll online before leaving home, we were soon across the Thames and onto the M2 into Kent. We were staying at Loddington House Hotel 14 East Cliff, Dover CT16 1LX.
You could fall out of this hotel & be in the docks it’s that close! Although it boasts free parking it has a one way street either side of it and you have to go half way round Dover to turn back round! After initially making this mistake I later managed to park behind the hotel, parking being free from 1800 through the night.
I was keen to find the Breakwater Brewery & Taproom which opens at 5pm. I tried their Samphire Gold 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by a Breakwater Best 4.0% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
A little break back in the room, M&S sandwiches & a Costa coffee for our tea. Then another trip out to sample a couple more Dover pubs. First up I walked to Blakes of Dover cellar bar where I tried to sample Parkway brewing co Polly Wants a Cracker 4.5%, but I had to return the 1st pint, the replacement pint was hardly any better (so only rated 1.75 on UnTappd). I was glad to leave!
I had walked past the White Horse, a proper pub, so I tried here next. I started with a Harveys Sussex Best Bitter 4.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). This pub has a lovely rooftop beer garden accessed by a steep flight of steps (aka Tim Taylors “The Fleece” pub in Haworth, Yorkshire)
White Horse beer garden
I then went onto St.Austell Tribute 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) all very pleasant after the experience in Blakes!
Friday 5th July
Up reasonably early for our P&O ferry, the 0825 to Calais. We had a fried breakfast while the ship was pulling out of the harbour. The sea was as calm as a millpond. We were driving down to Dijon
(5 ½ hours if no stops roadside for drinks etc). No dramas on the drive saw us arriving at the Ibis Dijon Gare, 15 A avenue Albert 1er, mid-afternoon where the air-conditioned room was welcome due to it being 36 C outside.
We made the mistake of dining in the on-site restaurant this evening, everything looked good however my wife got a totally different meal to the one ordered (due to their English menu saying Scallops – instead of “Salmon Escalope”!) then the replacement burger was virtually raw. In amongst all this I had 2 Grimbergen Blondes 6.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
I ventured out after the meal, I started at Leo Resto on the railway station where I sampled an Affligem Blonde 6.8% (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd). I then caught a tram followed by a hot walk to Beer Country, Boulevard de Strasbourg. The loud German rock music, large number of smokers outside & furnace like temperature inside saw me only having the one drink! This was Brasserie du Bocq Blancche de Namur 4.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). All was not lost as I’d spotted The Craft Beer Pub across the road from the tram stop so gave it a try. I tried a Les Bieres du Donjon brewery Chevalier Noir unknown% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
Finally I stopped off at the Bam Jam Café for a Brasserie d’Achoufe La Choufe Blond 8%, nectar, (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd)
Saturday 6th July
We were driving down towards Geneva today, through some stunning hilly scenery, I’d worked out a route via the D1005 to Ferney-Voltaire so we would stay in France to make it cheaper on our AA European car insurance, here I had booked secure parking for a week.
Then the shuttle mini-bus to Geneva Airport (5mins) for the 1249 train to Lausanne. I had my free FIP pass for Switzerland, active staff only so my wife isn’t entitled but still gets a 50% discount with her FIP card.
460090 Geneva Airport – Lausanne 1249 Geneva Airport – Sursee
A pleasant journey with views of Lake Geneva on the way. We had booked 7 nights at the
Hotel A la Gare, on a quiet traffic free street out the back exit from the railway station.
The hotel would prove to be the ideal base being only 5 minutes from the station platforms and about 3 minutes to the Lausanne Metro stop which is essential due to the whole city being built on very steep hills!
We caught the Metro down to Lausanne Ouchy across the road from the promenade and harbour area. It’s very pleasant to stroll through the gardens and along the lakeside. We took cover from the heat (about 31 C) on the terrace of La Lacustre bar & restaurant which has fantastic views of the lake including the far shore and many mountains.
View from La Lacustre terrace
It is also very well priced (for Switzerland) meaning all the “good” tables are reserved for lunchtime & evening meals – the best we managed all week was to sit at a reserved table and move on before the time the intended occupants were due. I had a couple of Hoegaarden Wit/Blanche 4.9% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) while we enjoyed the views. We traversed the promenade looking for somewhere to eat eventually choosing La Nautica (Italian) on the harbour side. I suffered a Feldschlossen Original Euro Pale 4.5%, which is Eurofizz (even having Euro in the name!) I rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
I ventured out later heading uphill on the Metro to the Flon district to find Les Brasseurs brewpub, Rue Centrale 4, part of a chain of four such brewpubs. I tried a La Blanche 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Les Brasseurs brewing equipment
Next I headed for Le Lab de Dr.Gabs, Rue du Bourg 39, even though it’s on the main shopping street I felt like a mountain goat walking up the steep streets! I sampled their Tenebreuse stout 6.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Beer Blackboard at Dr.Gabs
Sunday 7th July
A nice relaxed start, although the breakfast room was chaotic (the only day we had this problem).
I did a little fill-in train move to Montreux & back in the morning:
460072 Lausanne – Montreux 0950 Lausanne – Brig
460083 Montreux – Lausanne 0857 Brig – Geneva Airport
Due to Swiss shops not opening on a Sunday we had booked a lunch cruise with CGN from Lausanne-Ouchy departing at 1230 on one of their Paddle Ships, with a meal, while we cruised around the lake (Lac Lemon to them or Lake Geneva to us) for 3 hours. We again put our feet up in La Lacustre bar with another Hoegaarden whilst waiting for our sailing.
Paddle Ship La Suisse
A lovely cruise, calling at a few towns on the far French side of the lake, before heading back via Montreux & the vineyards of Vevey. Onboard I had a couple of bottles of Feldschlossen Weizen Blanche 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
Once back on dry land I ventured out to find Brasserie du Château (brewpub), Place du Tunnel 1.
I had their La Blonde 4.5% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by Red X Dead 1 at 3.2%, an English bitter served on HANDPUMP. Is this the only handpump in Switzerland ? It wasn’t very good – I only rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
Brasserie du Chateau
I then checked out a couple of other bars I’d found online but both were closed on a Sunday so headed back towards the Metro - only to stumble upon La Grenette, an outdoor bar in a small square off Place de la Rippone. A fine range of draft Craft beers but at 9 francs each a little pricey. I had a Hoppy People brewery Psychobilly White 5.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
Beer Line up at La Grenette
I followed this with Smash 4.5% from La Nébuleuse brewery (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
I then had a nightcap in Les Gosses du Quebec of Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) before catching the Metro back to the hotel.
Monday 8th July
I had based our trip in Lausanne as central to all the places we were interested in visiting, also the old RE4/4 locos based here for commuter turns were of interest to me, so I had planned some pre-breakfast moves (as usual!)
460083 Lausanne – Aigle 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
460012 Aigle – Montreux 0551 Brig – Geneva Airport
11197 Montreux – Lausanne 0638 Sion – Geneva Airport
460094 Lausanne – Vevey 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11196 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
It had been very hot all weekend, we had intended to go to Geneva today but the 36 degree C weather forecast put us off – we headed for the 29 C Bern instead.
460115 Lausanne – Bern 0932 Geneva Airport – St.Gallen
It was double deck stock and we ended up sitting in the buffet car, she had a tea and I had a Feldschlossen Original Euro Pale 4.5%, which I again rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
We left Bern station, crossed the square and took a left turn at the tram stop, then the main shopping streets, leading to the old town, stretch out before you. A bit of window shopping as we made our way down to the Kornhaus and Theater on Kornhausplasse.
It was time for some lunch, plenty of restaurants to choose from - we opted for Brasserie Anker, an Egger brewery tied house with nice outdoor seating. They are famous for having over 20 varieties of Roschti on the menu so we both tried one of these
My meal
Whilst waiting for the food I had an Egger Walder / Spezial Bier 5.6% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) – I don’t really know why I didn’t order something better! I made up for this by trying an Albertus Dunkel 5.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). We continued looking round the Old town, taking in the Rudolf von Erlach statue and the Zytglogge clock tower constructed in 1405 with mechanical moving figures on the hour & astronomical clock, we then looked around Berner Munster (Cathedral) before admiring the views from the Munsterplattform garden.
Rudolf von Erlach statue
Zytglogge
View from the Munsterplattform
We had a drink and a cake in the very well to do Monnier Tea Room, I had a bottle of Falsenau brewery Barner Muntschi kellerbier 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd), all very pleasant.
We returned to the station where, much to my disappointment, we had the same loco back to Lausanne as this morning!
460115 Bern – Lausanne 1425 St.Gallen – Geneva Airport
We did a bit more sightseeing around Lausanne, eventually ending up in the Bella Vita Italian opposite the railway station. No beer here so I had a small glass of Montepulciano red.
A few more pubs to find tonight, I tried to start at La Bossette although I went wrong somewhere so walked up and down a lot of hills! I gave up so had a Valaisanne brewery Zwickelbier/Biere de Cave 5.4% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd), in the street corner La Gallette bar. I then tried a different route, stopping off at Café Bellini (at the top of another steep hill) for a large Hoegaarden in their inviting terrace beer garden.
Of course, I then found La Bossette around the next corner…. It was soon apparent this is the go-to bar in the city to try different beers, with very knowledgeable and friendly staff.
Beer range at La Bossette
I started with White Frontier brewery Log-out & Live 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd), I then had a Vanuxeern brewery Queue de Charrue Blonde 6.6% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and finally a Hoppy People brewery Pornstar 6.1% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd). A cracking pub.
Tuesday 9th August
Pre-breakfast moves:
460112 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11199 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460067 Lausanne – Montreux 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11164 Montreux – Vevey 0717 St.Maurice – Geneva Airport
11192 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
11199 at Lausanne
The world-famous Montreux Jazz festival was into it’s second week and we had seen the long row of stalls lining the promenade from our lake cruise on Sunday, again the weather here was predicted a little cooler than elsewhere so we decided to visit Montreux today.
460045 Lausanne – Montreux 0920 Geneva Airport – Brig
A very pleasant stroll, looking in all the stalls as we went. The gardens lining the route were very impressive, it just shows how much effort the town makes for the festival. We continued working along the lakeside and arrived at the Eden Palace hotel just before lunchtime. We settled down at an outside table, I had a very pleasant Brasserie Lefebvre Wittekop 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Wittekop Witbier
Another stroll back down the prom where more stalls had now opened, the food & drink “village” was open at the Jazz Festival so a lakeside snack washed down with a small (and expensive) Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% from Bar du Volley. My wife kept up her knack of going back on the same loco we arrived on!
460045 Montreux – Lausanne 1226 Brig – Lausanne
The wife decided to rest before going out later so I took the chance to go to Nyon for another of the Les Brasseurs brewpubs.
460035 Lausanne – Nyon 1257 Brig – Geneva Airport
A pleasant place, I soon found my way down the main street to Les Brasseurs, Rue de la Gare 18. I sat outside with a La Blonde 5.0% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
3 Brasseurs, Nyon
I took a stroll to see what else Nyon might throw up beer-wise, I didn’t venture down to the river as it was too hot, however I then found the Bar Le St.Jean in a small garden next to the main car park. A very pleasant and surprisingly quiet place to relax, 2 local beers available on draft I sampled a Cap’taine Mousse brewery Fantasie Blanche IPA (unknown %).
11199 Nyon – Lausanne 1620 Geneva Airport – Sion
We had decided to enjoy the harbour and prom, aiming to get a table at La Lacustre where evening meals start at 1830 and they do very reasonably priced Pizza’s. Our hopes were dashed when the menu showed no Pizza’s available – they were having a new Pizza oven fitted. They’d been doing Pizza’s all weekend but not available the rest of the week. Boo! I had another Hoegaarden (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) before we went looking for an alternative location to eat.
After finding high prices and nothing we fancied we got the Metro back to the Flon area and ate there.
I later went in search of another bar I’d found online, Le Tabac, which I actually found straight away. Here I had a bottle of Doctor Gab’s Bomber Blonde 4.8% (which I rated 3. 5 on UnTappd). I then went wandering, eventually finding Le Pointu which remarkably turned out to do lots of beers from La Nebuleuse brewery, the bright young thing of the Lausanne brewing industry. In my opinion they do the best beers in the area. I sat outside with a Am’Wheat 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
La Nebuleuse beer line up at Le Pointu
Wednesday 10th July
Pre-breakfast moves:
460077 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11164 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460067 Lausanne – Montreux 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11196 Montreux – Vevey 0717 St.Maurice – Geneva Airport
Unit Vevey – Burier 0706 Allaman – Villeneuve
11158 Burier – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
The breakfast room at the Hotel A la Gare has a surprise in the floor – a working model train layout covered with strengthened glass that you walk across to/from the back room full of breakfast foodstuffs! You press a button on the wall and off the train goes. Also the room is done out like a railway carriage.
Breakfast room trainset
We had decided to cross the lake and visit the French town of Evian-les-Bains, so back down on the Metro to Lausanne Ouchy for a sit in the sunshine, I went to purchase tickets for the CGN ferry crossing. Visitors to Lausanne get free transport on local buses, trams and trains – plus a discount on things like the ferries, I think about 15% each.
Ferry Lausanne-Ouchy – Evian-les-Bains 1100 Lausanne-Ouchy – Evian
Another very pleasant promenade, a nice stroll away from town admiring the flowers until we reached a fountain where we turned back. The water is crystal clear on this side of the lake.
We stopped at a lakeside Creperie, where unsurprisingly we had Crepes and a drink. I had an unknown Eurofizz lager to take the edge off the heat. We then walked along the prom past the town centre, even more flowers to admire.
We had seen a poster that the town’s Funicular railway was free to use so we gave it a try – what a surprise we got! It’s excellent, from the traditional rolling stock to the fact it runs underground to start with, then out into the open, has a few actual stops on route, you can stop half way up and fill your water bottles from the Evian source (!) and it’s very long – and did I mention its free?
There’s a lot of info on the lines history in the top station building and there is a nice little café (buvette) outside. She had an Earl Grey tea & I had a Pelforth lager 5.8% (which I rated 3.0 on UnTappd), followed by a pleasant run back down on the Funicular.
Funicular going up (note the bicycle carriage at the front)
Funicular at the top station
Ferry Evian-les-Bains – Lausanne-Ouchy 1445 Evian – Lausanne-Ouchy
The Festival de La Cite started today, held in the Parc de Mon-Repos and many locations in and around the old town (Cite / around the Cathedral) so we got the Metro to Riponne and walked to the Cite area. Loads of stages set up, plenty of pop-up bars & many, many food stalls.
We both decided to eat from a very good Chinese stall, we shared a sweet & sour chicken and a chicken curry, both very nice. I had a La Nebuleuse Zepp Pils 4.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) from L’Esplanade pop up bar. All the beer at the festival being sourced from the independent (and local) La Nebuleause brewery, the first time the city had gone away from a “Big” commercial brewery – a real feather in their cap as well as their beers being overall the best I had while in Switzerland.
We took in some live music inside the Cathedral, once the 3 piece group had finished we
carried on looking around the stalls. When we stumbled across the De L’Autre Cote bar I
thought it was Christmas!
Beer range at De L’Autre Cote
I didn’t even know this bar existed, it hadn’t shown up online while I was researching
pubs to visit on our trip – I had a Het Uitje brewery Miss Hooter 4.4% (which I rated 4.0
on UnTappd).
I would recommend this festival, especially for those young enough to dance and sing their way late into the night – a good vibe, good beer and lots of different styles of music and theatre acts – even down to a hands-on activity theatre for kids.
I decided to finish the evening sat outside the La Bossette pub. First up Les Fleurs du Malt
Biere Ambree 5.4% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) followed by a Van Steenberg Baptist
Wit / Blanche 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) and finishing with La Nebuleuse
Namur Express 6.7% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) Definitely THE top bar in Lausanne.
Thursday 11th July
Today I had planned a trip over the world famous “Goldenpass” route from Montreux to Interlaken via Zweisimmen.
460xxx Lausanne – Montreux 0802 Geneva Airport – Brig
I forgot to check the loco number after getting off in Montreux ! must be getting old……
Anyway, back to today’s trip, the train from Montreux is run by MOB and is a narrow gauge railway line.
6002 Montreux – Zweisimmen 0944 Montreux – Zweisimmen
6002 at Montreux
The line soon climbs up above Montreux, great views of the town and the lake but difficult to get good photo’s as it swings round corners all the time. We had good seats, we hadn’t reserved these as they cost 8 francs each but no problem on this train. I travelled on my free FIP pass – officially I was liable to pay a supplement on this service, but the guard was more interested in my 29-year career on the railway (I am currently a Locomotive Controller for DB Cargo in the UK). The scenery is varied and well - Alpine!
We rolled into Gstaad, ski resort to the rich & famous – we could see a crowd in a sports stadium, when the train climbed up out of town we could make out they were playing Beach Volleyball! (it was the Swatch Gstaad Major 20th anniversary, with only the world’s top beach volleyball players competing). Unexpected to say the least. A quick change of trains at Zweisimmen then onwards towards Interlaken.
420501 Zweisimmen – Interlaken Ost 1139 Zweisimmen – Interlaken Ost
420501 at Zweisimmen
I’ve not been to many places as tourist-orientated as Interlaken turned out to be, the town runs alongside the river and railway between Ost and West stations and is overrun with Japanese and Chinese tourists. It was still very pleasant in places, we decided to walk from one station to the other sightseeing and shopping.
We stopped at the Taverne restaurant, a nice outside table with views of the roadside ornamental Chinese garden & pond next door. I had a Hofbrau Munchen brewery Munchner Wheat 5.4% with my meal.
Chinese garden
More strolling and shopping followed as we strolled down to West station for our return journey, this time via the mainline route, changing trains in Bern.
460091 Interlaken West – Bern 1600 Interlaken Ost – Basel SBB
460018 Bern – Lausanne 1600 Luzern – Geneva Aeroport
After a varied and interesting day trip it was time for an evening drink.
I got a local train to Renens VD for a bus to La Nebuleuse brewery, at Chemin du Closel 5, they have a taproom on site.
Thursday 4th July
With a 4 ½ hour drive to Dover today I scoured the Whatpub app (& Tripadvisor reviews) to find a suitable lunch venue, I came up with the Green Dragon,Waterside, London Colney AL2 1RB. Ideal as we only had to come off the A1 one junction before the M25 and could then join the M25 afterwards.
The pub was excellent, as was the leafy riverside location all topped by a very good chicken & ham pie. I sampled a Fullers London Pride (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). The M25 was busy but moving well and I had paid the Dart Toll online before leaving home, we were soon across the Thames and onto the M2 into Kent. We were staying at Loddington House Hotel 14 East Cliff, Dover CT16 1LX.
You could fall out of this hotel & be in the docks it’s that close! Although it boasts free parking it has a one way street either side of it and you have to go half way round Dover to turn back round! After initially making this mistake I later managed to park behind the hotel, parking being free from 1800 through the night.
I was keen to find the Breakwater Brewery & Taproom which opens at 5pm. I tried their Samphire Gold 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by a Breakwater Best 4.0% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
A little break back in the room, M&S sandwiches & a Costa coffee for our tea. Then another trip out to sample a couple more Dover pubs. First up I walked to Blakes of Dover cellar bar where I tried to sample Parkway brewing co Polly Wants a Cracker 4.5%, but I had to return the 1st pint, the replacement pint was hardly any better (so only rated 1.75 on UnTappd). I was glad to leave!
I had walked past the White Horse, a proper pub, so I tried here next. I started with a Harveys Sussex Best Bitter 4.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). This pub has a lovely rooftop beer garden accessed by a steep flight of steps (aka Tim Taylors “The Fleece” pub in Haworth, Yorkshire)
I then went onto St.Austell Tribute 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) all very pleasant after the experience in Blakes!
Friday 5th July
Up reasonably early for our P&O ferry, the 0825 to Calais. We had a fried breakfast while the ship was pulling out of the harbour. The sea was as calm as a millpond. We were driving down to Dijon
(5 ½ hours if no stops roadside for drinks etc). No dramas on the drive saw us arriving at the Ibis Dijon Gare, 15 A avenue Albert 1er, mid-afternoon where the air-conditioned room was welcome due to it being 36 C outside.
We made the mistake of dining in the on-site restaurant this evening, everything looked good however my wife got a totally different meal to the one ordered (due to their English menu saying Scallops – instead of “Salmon Escalope”!) then the replacement burger was virtually raw. In amongst all this I had 2 Grimbergen Blondes 6.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
I ventured out after the meal, I started at Leo Resto on the railway station where I sampled an Affligem Blonde 6.8% (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd). I then caught a tram followed by a hot walk to Beer Country, Boulevard de Strasbourg. The loud German rock music, large number of smokers outside & furnace like temperature inside saw me only having the one drink! This was Brasserie du Bocq Blancche de Namur 4.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). All was not lost as I’d spotted The Craft Beer Pub across the road from the tram stop so gave it a try. I tried a Les Bieres du Donjon brewery Chevalier Noir unknown% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
Finally I stopped off at the Bam Jam Café for a Brasserie d’Achoufe La Choufe Blond 8%, nectar, (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd)
Saturday 6th July
We were driving down towards Geneva today, through some stunning hilly scenery, I’d worked out a route via the D1005 to Ferney-Voltaire so we would stay in France to make it cheaper on our AA European car insurance, here I had booked secure parking for a week.
Then the shuttle mini-bus to Geneva Airport (5mins) for the 1249 train to Lausanne. I had my free FIP pass for Switzerland, active staff only so my wife isn’t entitled but still gets a 50% discount with her FIP card.
460090 Geneva Airport – Lausanne 1249 Geneva Airport – Sursee
A pleasant journey with views of Lake Geneva on the way. We had booked 7 nights at the
Hotel A la Gare, on a quiet traffic free street out the back exit from the railway station.
The hotel would prove to be the ideal base being only 5 minutes from the station platforms and about 3 minutes to the Lausanne Metro stop which is essential due to the whole city being built on very steep hills!
We caught the Metro down to Lausanne Ouchy across the road from the promenade and harbour area. It’s very pleasant to stroll through the gardens and along the lakeside. We took cover from the heat (about 31 C) on the terrace of La Lacustre bar & restaurant which has fantastic views of the lake including the far shore and many mountains.
It is also very well priced (for Switzerland) meaning all the “good” tables are reserved for lunchtime & evening meals – the best we managed all week was to sit at a reserved table and move on before the time the intended occupants were due. I had a couple of Hoegaarden Wit/Blanche 4.9% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) while we enjoyed the views. We traversed the promenade looking for somewhere to eat eventually choosing La Nautica (Italian) on the harbour side. I suffered a Feldschlossen Original Euro Pale 4.5%, which is Eurofizz (even having Euro in the name!) I rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
I ventured out later heading uphill on the Metro to the Flon district to find Les Brasseurs brewpub, Rue Centrale 4, part of a chain of four such brewpubs. I tried a La Blanche 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Next I headed for Le Lab de Dr.Gabs, Rue du Bourg 39, even though it’s on the main shopping street I felt like a mountain goat walking up the steep streets! I sampled their Tenebreuse stout 6.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Sunday 7th July
A nice relaxed start, although the breakfast room was chaotic (the only day we had this problem).
I did a little fill-in train move to Montreux & back in the morning:
460072 Lausanne – Montreux 0950 Lausanne – Brig
460083 Montreux – Lausanne 0857 Brig – Geneva Airport
Due to Swiss shops not opening on a Sunday we had booked a lunch cruise with CGN from Lausanne-Ouchy departing at 1230 on one of their Paddle Ships, with a meal, while we cruised around the lake (Lac Lemon to them or Lake Geneva to us) for 3 hours. We again put our feet up in La Lacustre bar with another Hoegaarden whilst waiting for our sailing.
A lovely cruise, calling at a few towns on the far French side of the lake, before heading back via Montreux & the vineyards of Vevey. Onboard I had a couple of bottles of Feldschlossen Weizen Blanche 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
Once back on dry land I ventured out to find Brasserie du Château (brewpub), Place du Tunnel 1.
I had their La Blonde 4.5% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by Red X Dead 1 at 3.2%, an English bitter served on HANDPUMP. Is this the only handpump in Switzerland ? It wasn’t very good – I only rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
I then checked out a couple of other bars I’d found online but both were closed on a Sunday so headed back towards the Metro - only to stumble upon La Grenette, an outdoor bar in a small square off Place de la Rippone. A fine range of draft Craft beers but at 9 francs each a little pricey. I had a Hoppy People brewery Psychobilly White 5.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
I followed this with Smash 4.5% from La Nébuleuse brewery (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
I then had a nightcap in Les Gosses du Quebec of Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) before catching the Metro back to the hotel.
Monday 8th July
I had based our trip in Lausanne as central to all the places we were interested in visiting, also the old RE4/4 locos based here for commuter turns were of interest to me, so I had planned some pre-breakfast moves (as usual!)
460083 Lausanne – Aigle 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
460012 Aigle – Montreux 0551 Brig – Geneva Airport
11197 Montreux – Lausanne 0638 Sion – Geneva Airport
460094 Lausanne – Vevey 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11196 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
460115 Lausanne – Bern 0932 Geneva Airport – St.Gallen
It was double deck stock and we ended up sitting in the buffet car, she had a tea and I had a Feldschlossen Original Euro Pale 4.5%, which I again rated it 3.0 on UnTappd.
We left Bern station, crossed the square and took a left turn at the tram stop, then the main shopping streets, leading to the old town, stretch out before you. A bit of window shopping as we made our way down to the Kornhaus and Theater on Kornhausplasse.
It was time for some lunch, plenty of restaurants to choose from - we opted for Brasserie Anker, an Egger brewery tied house with nice outdoor seating. They are famous for having over 20 varieties of Roschti on the menu so we both tried one of these
Whilst waiting for the food I had an Egger Walder / Spezial Bier 5.6% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) – I don’t really know why I didn’t order something better! I made up for this by trying an Albertus Dunkel 5.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). We continued looking round the Old town, taking in the Rudolf von Erlach statue and the Zytglogge clock tower constructed in 1405 with mechanical moving figures on the hour & astronomical clock, we then looked around Berner Munster (Cathedral) before admiring the views from the Munsterplattform garden.
We had a drink and a cake in the very well to do Monnier Tea Room, I had a bottle of Falsenau brewery Barner Muntschi kellerbier 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd), all very pleasant.
We returned to the station where, much to my disappointment, we had the same loco back to Lausanne as this morning!
460115 Bern – Lausanne 1425 St.Gallen – Geneva Airport
We did a bit more sightseeing around Lausanne, eventually ending up in the Bella Vita Italian opposite the railway station. No beer here so I had a small glass of Montepulciano red.
A few more pubs to find tonight, I tried to start at La Bossette although I went wrong somewhere so walked up and down a lot of hills! I gave up so had a Valaisanne brewery Zwickelbier/Biere de Cave 5.4% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd), in the street corner La Gallette bar. I then tried a different route, stopping off at Café Bellini (at the top of another steep hill) for a large Hoegaarden in their inviting terrace beer garden.
Of course, I then found La Bossette around the next corner…. It was soon apparent this is the go-to bar in the city to try different beers, with very knowledgeable and friendly staff.
I started with White Frontier brewery Log-out & Live 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd), I then had a Vanuxeern brewery Queue de Charrue Blonde 6.6% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and finally a Hoppy People brewery Pornstar 6.1% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd). A cracking pub.
Tuesday 9th August
Pre-breakfast moves:
460112 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11199 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460067 Lausanne – Montreux 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11164 Montreux – Vevey 0717 St.Maurice – Geneva Airport
11192 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
The world-famous Montreux Jazz festival was into it’s second week and we had seen the long row of stalls lining the promenade from our lake cruise on Sunday, again the weather here was predicted a little cooler than elsewhere so we decided to visit Montreux today.
460045 Lausanne – Montreux 0920 Geneva Airport – Brig
A very pleasant stroll, looking in all the stalls as we went. The gardens lining the route were very impressive, it just shows how much effort the town makes for the festival. We continued working along the lakeside and arrived at the Eden Palace hotel just before lunchtime. We settled down at an outside table, I had a very pleasant Brasserie Lefebvre Wittekop 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Another stroll back down the prom where more stalls had now opened, the food & drink “village” was open at the Jazz Festival so a lakeside snack washed down with a small (and expensive) Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% from Bar du Volley. My wife kept up her knack of going back on the same loco we arrived on!
460045 Montreux – Lausanne 1226 Brig – Lausanne
The wife decided to rest before going out later so I took the chance to go to Nyon for another of the Les Brasseurs brewpubs.
460035 Lausanne – Nyon 1257 Brig – Geneva Airport
A pleasant place, I soon found my way down the main street to Les Brasseurs, Rue de la Gare 18. I sat outside with a La Blonde 5.0% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
I took a stroll to see what else Nyon might throw up beer-wise, I didn’t venture down to the river as it was too hot, however I then found the Bar Le St.Jean in a small garden next to the main car park. A very pleasant and surprisingly quiet place to relax, 2 local beers available on draft I sampled a Cap’taine Mousse brewery Fantasie Blanche IPA (unknown %).
11199 Nyon – Lausanne 1620 Geneva Airport – Sion
We had decided to enjoy the harbour and prom, aiming to get a table at La Lacustre where evening meals start at 1830 and they do very reasonably priced Pizza’s. Our hopes were dashed when the menu showed no Pizza’s available – they were having a new Pizza oven fitted. They’d been doing Pizza’s all weekend but not available the rest of the week. Boo! I had another Hoegaarden (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) before we went looking for an alternative location to eat.
After finding high prices and nothing we fancied we got the Metro back to the Flon area and ate there.
I later went in search of another bar I’d found online, Le Tabac, which I actually found straight away. Here I had a bottle of Doctor Gab’s Bomber Blonde 4.8% (which I rated 3. 5 on UnTappd). I then went wandering, eventually finding Le Pointu which remarkably turned out to do lots of beers from La Nebuleuse brewery, the bright young thing of the Lausanne brewing industry. In my opinion they do the best beers in the area. I sat outside with a Am’Wheat 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
Wednesday 10th July
Pre-breakfast moves:
460077 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11164 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460067 Lausanne – Montreux 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11196 Montreux – Vevey 0717 St.Maurice – Geneva Airport
Unit Vevey – Burier 0706 Allaman – Villeneuve
11158 Burier – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
The breakfast room at the Hotel A la Gare has a surprise in the floor – a working model train layout covered with strengthened glass that you walk across to/from the back room full of breakfast foodstuffs! You press a button on the wall and off the train goes. Also the room is done out like a railway carriage.
We had decided to cross the lake and visit the French town of Evian-les-Bains, so back down on the Metro to Lausanne Ouchy for a sit in the sunshine, I went to purchase tickets for the CGN ferry crossing. Visitors to Lausanne get free transport on local buses, trams and trains – plus a discount on things like the ferries, I think about 15% each.
Ferry Lausanne-Ouchy – Evian-les-Bains 1100 Lausanne-Ouchy – Evian
Another very pleasant promenade, a nice stroll away from town admiring the flowers until we reached a fountain where we turned back. The water is crystal clear on this side of the lake.
We stopped at a lakeside Creperie, where unsurprisingly we had Crepes and a drink. I had an unknown Eurofizz lager to take the edge off the heat. We then walked along the prom past the town centre, even more flowers to admire.
We had seen a poster that the town’s Funicular railway was free to use so we gave it a try – what a surprise we got! It’s excellent, from the traditional rolling stock to the fact it runs underground to start with, then out into the open, has a few actual stops on route, you can stop half way up and fill your water bottles from the Evian source (!) and it’s very long – and did I mention its free?
There’s a lot of info on the lines history in the top station building and there is a nice little café (buvette) outside. She had an Earl Grey tea & I had a Pelforth lager 5.8% (which I rated 3.0 on UnTappd), followed by a pleasant run back down on the Funicular.
Ferry Evian-les-Bains – Lausanne-Ouchy 1445 Evian – Lausanne-Ouchy
The Festival de La Cite started today, held in the Parc de Mon-Repos and many locations in and around the old town (Cite / around the Cathedral) so we got the Metro to Riponne and walked to the Cite area. Loads of stages set up, plenty of pop-up bars & many, many food stalls.
We both decided to eat from a very good Chinese stall, we shared a sweet & sour chicken and a chicken curry, both very nice. I had a La Nebuleuse Zepp Pils 4.7% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) from L’Esplanade pop up bar. All the beer at the festival being sourced from the independent (and local) La Nebuleause brewery, the first time the city had gone away from a “Big” commercial brewery – a real feather in their cap as well as their beers being overall the best I had while in Switzerland.
We took in some live music inside the Cathedral, once the 3 piece group had finished we
carried on looking around the stalls. When we stumbled across the De L’Autre Cote bar I
thought it was Christmas!
I didn’t even know this bar existed, it hadn’t shown up online while I was researching
pubs to visit on our trip – I had a Het Uitje brewery Miss Hooter 4.4% (which I rated 4.0
on UnTappd).
I would recommend this festival, especially for those young enough to dance and sing their way late into the night – a good vibe, good beer and lots of different styles of music and theatre acts – even down to a hands-on activity theatre for kids.
I decided to finish the evening sat outside the La Bossette pub. First up Les Fleurs du Malt
Biere Ambree 5.4% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) followed by a Van Steenberg Baptist
Wit / Blanche 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) and finishing with La Nebuleuse
Namur Express 6.7% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) Definitely THE top bar in Lausanne.
Thursday 11th July
Today I had planned a trip over the world famous “Goldenpass” route from Montreux to Interlaken via Zweisimmen.
460xxx Lausanne – Montreux 0802 Geneva Airport – Brig
I forgot to check the loco number after getting off in Montreux ! must be getting old……
Anyway, back to today’s trip, the train from Montreux is run by MOB and is a narrow gauge railway line.
6002 Montreux – Zweisimmen 0944 Montreux – Zweisimmen
The line soon climbs up above Montreux, great views of the town and the lake but difficult to get good photo’s as it swings round corners all the time. We had good seats, we hadn’t reserved these as they cost 8 francs each but no problem on this train. I travelled on my free FIP pass – officially I was liable to pay a supplement on this service, but the guard was more interested in my 29-year career on the railway (I am currently a Locomotive Controller for DB Cargo in the UK). The scenery is varied and well - Alpine!
We rolled into Gstaad, ski resort to the rich & famous – we could see a crowd in a sports stadium, when the train climbed up out of town we could make out they were playing Beach Volleyball! (it was the Swatch Gstaad Major 20th anniversary, with only the world’s top beach volleyball players competing). Unexpected to say the least. A quick change of trains at Zweisimmen then onwards towards Interlaken.
420501 Zweisimmen – Interlaken Ost 1139 Zweisimmen – Interlaken Ost
I’ve not been to many places as tourist-orientated as Interlaken turned out to be, the town runs alongside the river and railway between Ost and West stations and is overrun with Japanese and Chinese tourists. It was still very pleasant in places, we decided to walk from one station to the other sightseeing and shopping.
We stopped at the Taverne restaurant, a nice outside table with views of the roadside ornamental Chinese garden & pond next door. I had a Hofbrau Munchen brewery Munchner Wheat 5.4% with my meal.
More strolling and shopping followed as we strolled down to West station for our return journey, this time via the mainline route, changing trains in Bern.
460091 Interlaken West – Bern 1600 Interlaken Ost – Basel SBB
460018 Bern – Lausanne 1600 Luzern – Geneva Aeroport
After a varied and interesting day trip it was time for an evening drink.
I got a local train to Renens VD for a bus to La Nebuleuse brewery, at Chemin du Closel 5, they have a taproom on site.
I had an Am Wheat 5.2%, stood on the terrace watching trains go by. I then tried an Embuscade 6.2% then finally a Double Oat IPA 6.2% (which I wasn’t too keen on).
I headed back into Lausanne on the bus, I walked back up to the De L’Autre Cote bar where I tried St.Bernard Blonde. I remember having another beer but no details – time for bed!
Friday 12/07
Pre-breakfast moves:
460049 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11192 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460094 Lausanne – Vevey 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11193 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
Today’s trip was to Geneva as it was forecast to be cooler than it had been all week – still about 30 C though. I again failed to check the loco number on our journey.
We caught the tram down to the old town area then walked up the hill until we reached a pleasant square surrounded by cafes. We sat in the sunshine, I had a bottle of Calvinus Blonde 5.2% at La Clemence outside café. Although the old town is full of historic buildings, the Cathedral and museums, there were no little shops to wander in and out of, which is more our cup of tea. A short stroll back down the hill to the main shopping area. A drink followed at Nelsons brewpub, I tried their Blanche.
Nelson Brewpub brewing vessels
We then walked over to the riverside to view the famous Jet d'Eau water fountain & flower clock.
Jet d'Eau water fountain
It was time to get away from the busy streets – it was getting hot, so we caught a bus to our next destination the Botanic gardens. These are well set out, we had an enjoyable walk to the on-site restaurant, The Pyramus.
It was about 2pm so food was overdue! We had a thoroughly enjoyable meal sat outside in the shade of a big umbrella, nice and quiet and accompanied by lovely food with a male Peacock wandering around between tables! I had a Fallen BR lager 4.8% then a Calvinus Blonde Bio 5.2%.
Unit Geneva-Secheron – Geneva 1518 Coppet – Lancy Pont-Rouge
460047 Geneva – Lausanne 1549 Geneva Airport – Luzern
We went back down to the harbour in Ouchy, I had a Dr Gabs Tenebreuse stout 6.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) at Terrace d’Ouchy and she had a nice Cocktail. Then back to the Brasseurs brewpub for a La Blanche 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). We would be leaving in the morning so a final visit to Dr Gabs taproom, here I tried their Social Qraft #4 black Lager 6.0% - quite nice.
Saturday 13/07
460035 Lausanne – Geneva Airport 0808 Lausanne - Geneva Airport
Back to the airport to collect our car then a scenic drive out of Geneva through the French countryside, we were heading for a week in Southern France based in Cessenon-sur-Orb.
It is the busiest weekend of the summer in France, however, as schools break up for the summer holidays, so once we got to the A7 motorway, which took a while due to an accident at the junction, it became slow going due to the sheer weight of traffic – and the thermometer gradually crept up to 39 degrees C!
Hot and bothered, we finally reached our destination about 7pm, we had planned to get here about 3 hours earlier! Still this would be a very chilled out week, we were staying in a Gite with a very nice pool.
I wandered into the village a bit later on, I had an Affligem Blonde 6.8% outside the Le Helder bar, then something cold and fizzy at a pop-up bar set up by the local rugby club.
Sunday 14/07
A day catching up with washing clothes, chilling by the pool and just generally relaxing.
Monday 15/07
A quiet morning followed by a trip into nearby Beziers for lunch followed by a walk around the Park de Poetes which is very nice.
Water feature in the park
Then back to relax around the pool.
Tuesday 16/07
A daytrip to visit the medieval fortress at Carcassonne, a pleasant 1 & ¼ hour drive through glorious countryside through the Minervois region. To say the castle is impressive would be an understatement.
We did the little road-train tour which takes you round the outside and explains the different features and ages of the various buildings lining the walls. Then when you enter the castle you find its full of shops, cafes, restaurants and arts & crafts workshops. We spent most of the day here, dining at the excellent Donjon restaurant. We came away with several hand made items along with holiday presents for the Grandkids.
Carcassone Castle
Wednesday 17/07
Another drive into the Minervois region today, this time to visit the village of Minerve itself, perched on top of huge rock outcrops.
Minerve
A very pleasant place to wander round the narrow streets, we picked up a nice hand made present for my mother’s birthday. As we had time to kill before relaxing by the pool I decided to take a scenic, mountainous route back to Cessenon-sur-Orb. I think all the roads were tarmacked….. I enjoyed it but some of the drops and corners were a bit much for my wife – especially when we came around a bend to be met by a concrete-mixer lorry on a steep single track road with no passing places! I had to reverse back uphill for about 2km’s before I could pull out of his way. Phew!
A well earned rest poolside then what turned out to be the culinary highlight of the whole holiday – I had found the Brasserie L'école online (www.ecoleolargues.com / Faubourg Saint Roch, 34390 Olargues), about a 40 minute drive through pleasant countryside. I had booked a table for the 2 of us from the UK and within minutes had received a reply that we had been reserved their best table with the best views. The restaurant only opens Wednesday until Sunday 19:00 - 23:00 and from 28 June 2019 until 23 August 2019, it’s an outdoor terrace with magnificent views over the river and old walled city of Olargues.
On arrival we were shown straight to our table and it did have the best views, although anyone sat on the front half of their open terrace could also fully enjoy it. A 3-course menu for 32 Euros, we both chose poached eggs with spinach as a starter. However an appetiser of cold fish, spinach & little accompaniments came first, the mix of flavours were gorgeous. Our poached egg starter were perfectly cooked & tasty, the presentation was fantastic. We had also both ordered Canard (duck) with seasonal vegetables & cream of petite pois as mains - but not before a palate cleanser in the shape of a cucumber gaspacho had arrived "to give a little break" - very nice too.
I tried a bottle of their guest beer, Kasteel Borgwal “Borgwal” 7.5% very nice too.
My duck arrived and was perfectly cooked for me (just on the medium side) my wifes was a little bloody. The carrots were done in a skin on, rustic style, lovely. The cream of petite pois not to be missed.
4 courses in and none had disappointed - could the dessert be as good? I had chosen Rive de Dessert, my wife a strawberry cheesecake. Her dessert was small but tasty with a nice coulis. Mine was great with coconut chocolate and dark chocolate truffles (2 of each) 2 cherries with a rich compote & a mini tiramisu. Lovely. In true french style we had a good 45 minute wait before dessert arrived - more time to appreciate the stunning setting as the sun set and the street lighting came on over Olargues.
I could eat it all again now!
Olargues as seen from the balcony
Views from Brasserie L'école
Thursday 18/07
We decided to visit the coast today, first we drove down to Cape d’Agde where we parked next to the beach at the Cape. After a stroll we sat outside a beach bar and ordered what turned out to be an excellent breakfast. Here we were treated to a 45 minute free air show by the Patrouille Acrobatique de France, the precision aerobatic demonstration unit of the French Air Force!
The Patrouille Acrobatique
We presume they were training, after all the excitement we moved on, driving further down the coast road to Sete. After a look around the centre we had a break for a drink then returned to the Gite for more time around the pool.
Friday 19/07
A lazy day in Cessenon-sur-Orb, we picked up some bottles of wine produced from Cessenon vinyards as presents for people back home, these were very well received with very positive feedback. We enjoyed our last day around the pool.
In the evening we had been invited for snacks and drinks with our hosts, they were after feedback on our stay as they had recently purchased the property and we were their first guests (the Gite has been in use for a couple of years under the previous owners).
Saturday 20/07
On paper we had an 8 hour drive to Reims today, however after battling the traffic on the A7 the previous Saturday we knew it would take longer - so we decided to go via the A75 motorway up into the mountains & over the Millau Viaduct then work our way over to Reims. The Sat Nav gave a journey time of 9 and a half hours.
We left at 6.10 am, the traffic was light and the route very enjoyable to drive. We made good time, fitting in 3 stops enroute for snacks and drinks including some very nice cakes from a Patisserie and a stop for diesel, we still made the whole journey in 9 and a half hours. We found our accommodation, Residhome Reims Centre. 06 Rue De Courcelles, after only a small drive round.
We walked down the main boulevard past all the bars and eateries to the shopping area, then had a look inside the cathedral.
We ate at Le 9 Brasserie on Place Drouet d'Erlon. I had a Leffe Blonde in "The Glue Pot", I couldn't resist as I used to frequent a pub of the same name in Swindon. I then had a Saison de Bosquet 5.0% by Senses brewery in L'Antirouille craft beer bar.
The 3 Brasseurs brewpub was across the street where I sampled Le Blanche 4.7%
The Gluepot
3 Brasseurs Le Blanche
Sunday 21/07
A 2hour 35mins drive to Calais Ferry terminal this morning where we hoped to make the earlier 1145 sailing than our booked ferry at 1245 but the 2 lots of Customs checks put paid to that. Still we were through in plenty of time for our booked sailing.
We headed for the Brasserie as we'd had a pleasant meal once before, however service was hit and miss and the menu seems to have been dumbed down a bit to suit a wider clientele. At least the desserts made up for it a bit.
We drove off the boat in Dover to find a lorry ferry was disembarking at the same time, I drove straight to Tesco's superstore to fill up with diesel as its currently more expensive in France than the UK. We noticed signs that the M2 was close for planned roadworks & to use the M20 instead. Sounds good but the M20 was gridlocked with lorries as there is loads of "Smart motorway" roadworks on that road too. We got back off at the next junction taking the virtually parallel A20 instead - we rejoined the M20 south of Maidstone with not a lorry to be seen - probably still gridlocked behind us!
For the 1st time in my life I said "I'm glad to be leaving Kent" as we entered the Dartford tunnel!
We returned on the A1, stopping in Wansford for a drink in The Paper Mills pub, I had a JHB 4.2% by Oakham brewery before continuing home.
We did over 8 hours of driving today; even though we covered a much shorter distance than the previous day, thanks to the roadworks and much heavier traffic in the UK.
We enjoyed Switzerland much more than southern France and Lausanne proved to be the perfect base for our trip. The heat was almost unbearable in both countries due to this summers heat-wave. I think we will return to do more parts of Switzerland in the future.
I headed back into Lausanne on the bus, I walked back up to the De L’Autre Cote bar where I tried St.Bernard Blonde. I remember having another beer but no details – time for bed!
Friday 12/07
Pre-breakfast moves:
460049 Lausanne – Vevey 0520 Geneva Airport – Brig
11192 Vevey – Lausanne 0551 Sion – Geneva Airport
460094 Lausanne – Vevey 0620 Geneva Airport – Brig
11193 Vevey – Lausanne 0737 St.Maurice – Lausanne
Today’s trip was to Geneva as it was forecast to be cooler than it had been all week – still about 30 C though. I again failed to check the loco number on our journey.
We caught the tram down to the old town area then walked up the hill until we reached a pleasant square surrounded by cafes. We sat in the sunshine, I had a bottle of Calvinus Blonde 5.2% at La Clemence outside café. Although the old town is full of historic buildings, the Cathedral and museums, there were no little shops to wander in and out of, which is more our cup of tea. A short stroll back down the hill to the main shopping area. A drink followed at Nelsons brewpub, I tried their Blanche.
We then walked over to the riverside to view the famous Jet d'Eau water fountain & flower clock.
It was time to get away from the busy streets – it was getting hot, so we caught a bus to our next destination the Botanic gardens. These are well set out, we had an enjoyable walk to the on-site restaurant, The Pyramus.
It was about 2pm so food was overdue! We had a thoroughly enjoyable meal sat outside in the shade of a big umbrella, nice and quiet and accompanied by lovely food with a male Peacock wandering around between tables! I had a Fallen BR lager 4.8% then a Calvinus Blonde Bio 5.2%.
Unit Geneva-Secheron – Geneva 1518 Coppet – Lancy Pont-Rouge
460047 Geneva – Lausanne 1549 Geneva Airport – Luzern
We went back down to the harbour in Ouchy, I had a Dr Gabs Tenebreuse stout 6.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) at Terrace d’Ouchy and she had a nice Cocktail. Then back to the Brasseurs brewpub for a La Blanche 5.0% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). We would be leaving in the morning so a final visit to Dr Gabs taproom, here I tried their Social Qraft #4 black Lager 6.0% - quite nice.
Saturday 13/07
460035 Lausanne – Geneva Airport 0808 Lausanne - Geneva Airport
Back to the airport to collect our car then a scenic drive out of Geneva through the French countryside, we were heading for a week in Southern France based in Cessenon-sur-Orb.
It is the busiest weekend of the summer in France, however, as schools break up for the summer holidays, so once we got to the A7 motorway, which took a while due to an accident at the junction, it became slow going due to the sheer weight of traffic – and the thermometer gradually crept up to 39 degrees C!
Hot and bothered, we finally reached our destination about 7pm, we had planned to get here about 3 hours earlier! Still this would be a very chilled out week, we were staying in a Gite with a very nice pool.
I wandered into the village a bit later on, I had an Affligem Blonde 6.8% outside the Le Helder bar, then something cold and fizzy at a pop-up bar set up by the local rugby club.
Sunday 14/07
A day catching up with washing clothes, chilling by the pool and just generally relaxing.
Monday 15/07
A quiet morning followed by a trip into nearby Beziers for lunch followed by a walk around the Park de Poetes which is very nice.
Then back to relax around the pool.
Tuesday 16/07
A daytrip to visit the medieval fortress at Carcassonne, a pleasant 1 & ¼ hour drive through glorious countryside through the Minervois region. To say the castle is impressive would be an understatement.
We did the little road-train tour which takes you round the outside and explains the different features and ages of the various buildings lining the walls. Then when you enter the castle you find its full of shops, cafes, restaurants and arts & crafts workshops. We spent most of the day here, dining at the excellent Donjon restaurant. We came away with several hand made items along with holiday presents for the Grandkids.
Wednesday 17/07
Another drive into the Minervois region today, this time to visit the village of Minerve itself, perched on top of huge rock outcrops.
A very pleasant place to wander round the narrow streets, we picked up a nice hand made present for my mother’s birthday. As we had time to kill before relaxing by the pool I decided to take a scenic, mountainous route back to Cessenon-sur-Orb. I think all the roads were tarmacked….. I enjoyed it but some of the drops and corners were a bit much for my wife – especially when we came around a bend to be met by a concrete-mixer lorry on a steep single track road with no passing places! I had to reverse back uphill for about 2km’s before I could pull out of his way. Phew!
A well earned rest poolside then what turned out to be the culinary highlight of the whole holiday – I had found the Brasserie L'école online (www.ecoleolargues.com / Faubourg Saint Roch, 34390 Olargues), about a 40 minute drive through pleasant countryside. I had booked a table for the 2 of us from the UK and within minutes had received a reply that we had been reserved their best table with the best views. The restaurant only opens Wednesday until Sunday 19:00 - 23:00 and from 28 June 2019 until 23 August 2019, it’s an outdoor terrace with magnificent views over the river and old walled city of Olargues.
On arrival we were shown straight to our table and it did have the best views, although anyone sat on the front half of their open terrace could also fully enjoy it. A 3-course menu for 32 Euros, we both chose poached eggs with spinach as a starter. However an appetiser of cold fish, spinach & little accompaniments came first, the mix of flavours were gorgeous. Our poached egg starter were perfectly cooked & tasty, the presentation was fantastic. We had also both ordered Canard (duck) with seasonal vegetables & cream of petite pois as mains - but not before a palate cleanser in the shape of a cucumber gaspacho had arrived "to give a little break" - very nice too.
I tried a bottle of their guest beer, Kasteel Borgwal “Borgwal” 7.5% very nice too.
My duck arrived and was perfectly cooked for me (just on the medium side) my wifes was a little bloody. The carrots were done in a skin on, rustic style, lovely. The cream of petite pois not to be missed.
4 courses in and none had disappointed - could the dessert be as good? I had chosen Rive de Dessert, my wife a strawberry cheesecake. Her dessert was small but tasty with a nice coulis. Mine was great with coconut chocolate and dark chocolate truffles (2 of each) 2 cherries with a rich compote & a mini tiramisu. Lovely. In true french style we had a good 45 minute wait before dessert arrived - more time to appreciate the stunning setting as the sun set and the street lighting came on over Olargues.
I could eat it all again now!
Thursday 18/07
We decided to visit the coast today, first we drove down to Cape d’Agde where we parked next to the beach at the Cape. After a stroll we sat outside a beach bar and ordered what turned out to be an excellent breakfast. Here we were treated to a 45 minute free air show by the Patrouille Acrobatique de France, the precision aerobatic demonstration unit of the French Air Force!
We presume they were training, after all the excitement we moved on, driving further down the coast road to Sete. After a look around the centre we had a break for a drink then returned to the Gite for more time around the pool.
Friday 19/07
A lazy day in Cessenon-sur-Orb, we picked up some bottles of wine produced from Cessenon vinyards as presents for people back home, these were very well received with very positive feedback. We enjoyed our last day around the pool.
In the evening we had been invited for snacks and drinks with our hosts, they were after feedback on our stay as they had recently purchased the property and we were their first guests (the Gite has been in use for a couple of years under the previous owners).
Saturday 20/07
On paper we had an 8 hour drive to Reims today, however after battling the traffic on the A7 the previous Saturday we knew it would take longer - so we decided to go via the A75 motorway up into the mountains & over the Millau Viaduct then work our way over to Reims. The Sat Nav gave a journey time of 9 and a half hours.
We left at 6.10 am, the traffic was light and the route very enjoyable to drive. We made good time, fitting in 3 stops enroute for snacks and drinks including some very nice cakes from a Patisserie and a stop for diesel, we still made the whole journey in 9 and a half hours. We found our accommodation, Residhome Reims Centre. 06 Rue De Courcelles, after only a small drive round.
We walked down the main boulevard past all the bars and eateries to the shopping area, then had a look inside the cathedral.
We ate at Le 9 Brasserie on Place Drouet d'Erlon. I had a Leffe Blonde in "The Glue Pot", I couldn't resist as I used to frequent a pub of the same name in Swindon. I then had a Saison de Bosquet 5.0% by Senses brewery in L'Antirouille craft beer bar.
The 3 Brasseurs brewpub was across the street where I sampled Le Blanche 4.7%
Sunday 21/07
A 2hour 35mins drive to Calais Ferry terminal this morning where we hoped to make the earlier 1145 sailing than our booked ferry at 1245 but the 2 lots of Customs checks put paid to that. Still we were through in plenty of time for our booked sailing.
We headed for the Brasserie as we'd had a pleasant meal once before, however service was hit and miss and the menu seems to have been dumbed down a bit to suit a wider clientele. At least the desserts made up for it a bit.
We drove off the boat in Dover to find a lorry ferry was disembarking at the same time, I drove straight to Tesco's superstore to fill up with diesel as its currently more expensive in France than the UK. We noticed signs that the M2 was close for planned roadworks & to use the M20 instead. Sounds good but the M20 was gridlocked with lorries as there is loads of "Smart motorway" roadworks on that road too. We got back off at the next junction taking the virtually parallel A20 instead - we rejoined the M20 south of Maidstone with not a lorry to be seen - probably still gridlocked behind us!
For the 1st time in my life I said "I'm glad to be leaving Kent" as we entered the Dartford tunnel!
We returned on the A1, stopping in Wansford for a drink in The Paper Mills pub, I had a JHB 4.2% by Oakham brewery before continuing home.
We did over 8 hours of driving today; even though we covered a much shorter distance than the previous day, thanks to the roadworks and much heavier traffic in the UK.
We enjoyed Switzerland much more than southern France and Lausanne proved to be the perfect base for our trip. The heat was almost unbearable in both countries due to this summers heat-wave. I think we will return to do more parts of Switzerland in the future.
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