Germany 3rd - 7th April 2019
A welcome return to the Fatherland as I'd not managed a train & beer trip here since August 2018. My main aims being to sample some new brewpubs & breweries and travel behind some 218 diesel locos as their booked workings on passenger trains are diminishing fast.
Wednesday 3rd April 2019
As with all short trips the best way to maximise them is by an early flight, to this end I had booked one with Ryanair at 0630 on Thursday morning from Manchester. I booked a single room at the Gardens hotel, on Piccadilly Gardens in Manchester, for £34. No Breakfast as I would be departing about 0430 am!
Unit Barnsley - Huddersfield 1900 Barnsley - Huddersfield
Unit Huddersfield - Manchester Picc xxxx Hudd - Manc Piccadilly
I checked in at the Gardens and was upgraded to a double room, very kind of the receptionist. I dropped my bag in my room and set several alarms for 0430 / 0432 / 0435 etc! due to the very early start next day..
As the time was about 2100 I went out in search of liquid refreshment - I didnt have far to go as Bundobust (street food & beer) have opened their 2nd establishment right next door to my hotel at 61 Piccadilly Gardens.Only 1 Real Ale available (but a host of keg craft ales) so Marble Brewery Session 3.9% it was (which I rated 3.75 on Untappd).
I then tried another new bar nearby but it was closed for refurbishment ( or just closed period) so I headed towards the Canal street area to try another couple of Real Ale pubs I'd spotted while looking around the area on Camra's Whatpub website.
First up I tried The Goose, 29 Bloom Street, where Misty's Quiz was in full swing and Misty was in full drag attire too. 3 Real ales advertised but only 1 on, this being Black Sheep bitter 3.8% which was actually in very good nick ( I rated it 3.75 on Untappd).
Around the corner to The Molly House, 28 Richmond Street, where thankfully all 5 Real Ales were on - none of which I'd had before. I was undecided so relied on the Barmans knowledge of what was selling best - a pint of Howard Town brewery Wrens Nest 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on Untappd) followed by a pint of Beartown brewery LIT 4.5% (which I also rated 3.75 on Untappd), Molly's is a great addition to the local Real Ale scene
I looked on Whatpub again and decided to try the Northern Monk Refectory on Tariff street - 4 Real ales & lots of craft keg, I chose a beer but it was "off" so I said no thanks instead choosing the Tariff & Dale on the corner of the same street - they only had 1 handpump but pleased to find Northern Whisper Yammerhouse 4.5% on it (which I rated 4.0 on Untappd). I know their beers are good after visiting the brewpub in Rawtenstall recently. A good finish to the evening - out of the above only the Goose had existed as a pub when I worked in Manchester in 1998 & 1999.
Thursday 4th April 2019
As I had set several alarms for my 4.30 start today I awoke dead on 4.00am anyway so decided to get up then! At least this would give me time to pick up a coffee from the all-night Costa outlet on Piccadilly station concourse.
3 non-stop trains to the Airport depart withiin 10 minutes of each other at this time of day so no problem other than the marathon walk around the airport itself finally arriving at T3 customs check where my tube of toothpaste caused me ten minutes delay before it was "disposed of" for me. 125ml is too much apparently......
I arrived in the bar / restaurant area near my gate (52) for my Ryanair flight to Hamburg where the whole place was mobbed, with queues at the bar of the Lion & Antelope with at least 2 Stag party groups in evidence - at 05.12am!
I ordered a pint of JW Lees MPA 4.1% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) which I supped while trying to look inconspicuous to the massed morons around me. I had paid for "Priority" boarding so the queue was impressive for this however I could see it going down and timed my arrival to avoid the wait. It didnt matter anyway as we all stood on the steps leading down to the plane anyway waiting for someone to let us on it. I had a window seat 27F who would I be sat with ? 1 of the Stag do's, of course, with the 2nd lot sat not far behind me. Cheers!
You could say sleep was not an option, as soon as the seat belt lights went off queues formed for the toilets which never ended during the whole flight, the trolley never came round as all the "men" were going to the back of the plane to buy "beers" (small cans of Heiniken for 5 Euros a time) from the trolley & I won't mention the swearing and general abuse given to the inflight staff throughout. England on tour, I vowed never to fly from Manchester again as its getting this way regularly now.
EI-EMO Manchester Airport - Hamburg Airport 0630 MAN - HAM
I've never been so glad to disembark (with the shouts of "Take me to the Reeperbahn") still ringing in my ears. They have connected the airport to the "S" bahn train network since my last visit to the area so an easy journey into the city - thankfully with none of my recent "friends" in tow!
I got off the unit at Hasselbrook to do a loco hauled train into the city but passed a 218 diesel just outside the main station which lead to a (fruitless) few train moves looking for it as I still need 218 329 (based here) for haulage.
112 141 Hasselbrook - Hamburg Hbf 0930 Bad Oldsloe - Hamburg Hbf 4km
112 141 Hamburg Hbf - Ahrensburg 1034 H.Hbf - Bad Oldsloe 21km
112 154 Ahrensburg - Hamburg Hbf 1112 Ahrensburg - Hamburg Hbf 21km
All this nedding around meant I only had time to try 1 of the 2 brewpubs I had planned this lunchtime so I tried Groninger, 47 Willy-Brandt strasse as only 3 mins on the tube. Groninger Pils was the only draft offering, not bad (I rated it 4.0 on Untappd).
Back to the Hbf for some fast food before my ICE to Hannover, this was wedged but a seat in the buffet car was found where I ordered a Bitburger vom Fass (ie draft / which I rated as 3.75 on UnTappd) then relaxed for the 1hour 15minute run.
ICE77 Hamburg Hbf - Hannover Hbf 1207 Hamburg Altona - Zurich 178km
There was a plan to visit 3 of Hannovers 4 breweries/brewpubs today, all new venues for me.
First onto the U bahn to Altenbekernerdamm for the Gilde Brauhaus where their Pils 4.9% was my choice (which I rated 3.0 on UnTappd) - although I'm not really a fan of the Pils style found over large swathes of northern Germany but someone's got to try it!
Next back a couple of stops on the U bahn to Meiers Lebenslust, Osterstrasse 64, a new style brewpub. Here their Helles 4.5% was sampled (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) much more to my liking and a good set-up overall.
A more traditional mode of transport - on foot - to the next port of call Brauhaus Ernst August , Schmiedestrasse 13, where the seasonal Hanoversch Maibock 6.5% was tried (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) then an easy walk to Hannover Hbf with time to purchase a beer for the train before boarding ICE771 to start the journey towards tonights hotel in Ulm, Bavaria - a five hour journey.
However looking at the online journey planner things were likely to go awry whichever route was taken due to late running trains further into the journey so it was decided to break up the journey by doing loco hauled trains instead - albeit with a later arrival into Ulm. IC2375 was taken to Kassel Wilhelmshohe.
There was an outside chance of a slightly quicker journey from here but again not to be due to further late running so upstairs for a quick beer in the amiable surroundings of Correus bakery & cafe bar, nice window seat accompanied with a bottle of Krombacher Weizen 5.3% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) and use of the toilets, this proved a very good move due to what followed!
The next train was IC2791, loco hauled instead of an ICE train - oh dear absolutely full and standing throughout - everyone who joined here was stood up for the next 90 minutes so I consoled myself with a bottle of Kostritzer Schwarzbier 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) a consistently good black beer. Fortunately, after a mass exodus at Frankfurt Hbf seats were again available so settled down for a snooze to avoid the full 3 hour journey to follow.
120 123 Hannover - Kassel W 1410 Hamburg A. - Karlsruhe
101 069 Kassel W. - Ulm Hbf 1506 Hamburg A. - Munich
(Via Frankfurt & Stuttgart)
Arrival into Ulm was at about 2230 to find check in closed at the Ibis budget (5mins from the station) but a very good computer check-in available in the hotel entrance got me into the room within a few minutes. I sorted my clothes for the morning then crossed the road to the Hackor-Pschorr pub, Sterngasse 17, which is fortunately open until midnight. I had a draft Edelhell 5.5% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by a draft Kellerbier (which I rated 4.25 on Untappd) a nice beer to finish the night on - and to bed.
Friday 5th April 2019
In theory a relaxed start for the 0817 train, of course I woke a bit earlier so headed to the busy station, got a coffee & breakfast sandwich and put my bag in a locker as plenty of time to collect it later, then onto the platforms to view a few trains.
I had time to walk over a huge footbridge to the far side of the sidings to check which diesel locos were stabled waiting their next duties - these included 218417 my last required Ulm diesel - oh well there's always another day.
Back to the station, 218409 was to work the 0817 train, 1 hour 45 minutes to enjoy the loco through some stunning scenery, especially the section after Sigmaringen to Beuron. It was a fairly empty train so no problem opening the window fully (they drop down to about your midriff) to listen to the loco thrash away from each station.
All too soon it was time to leave the train at Beuron, 10 minutes to listen to birdsong in this sleepy hamlet waiting for a unit back to Ehingen where 3 brewpubs awaited.
218 409 Ulm Hbf - Beuron 0817 Ulm - Donaueschingen 116km
612 502 Beuron - Ehingen (Donau) 0922 Donaueschingen - Ulm 82km
The furthest of the 3 brewpubs in Ehingen, Brauerei Rossle, is only 700 metres from the railway station so headed there first, on entering the brewery and going upstairs to the bar it was found to be locked, so back outside where some brewery staff were doing off sales (filling locals boots with crates of beer) and found out the bar was not opening until 4pm (shows 11am in the Camra Good Beer Guide to Germany) so no good for today then!
Braurei Rossle sign
So steps were retraced as had passed the Schwerte brewpub on the way - this was definitely open (it was now 1130am) so tried their Dunkles once the barman had finished his dinner. Their Dunkles (no ABV) was great (so I rated it 4.25 on Untappd) then enquired if their Wheat beer was on draft - no only bottles - so opted for another pint of Dunkles.
Off into the town centre to find Brauerei Schwanen , only a 4 minute walk, where the first beer tried was their Jubelbier 5.2% (which I rated 4.25 on Untappd) and while drinking this I spotted that Rauchbier was their beer of the month. A must try so ordered one - it came out of the pump full of yeast. I raised this with the barmaid just as the head brewer was walking past (deliberately) he gave us both a description of how the yeast can settle in clumps, then get into the pipe (I knew this) then showed her how to pull a couple more through until it regained its usual consistency. I could now sample the beer, the aroma was smokey by it didn't follow through onto the palate - refreshing and still a good attempt (I rated it 3.75 on UnTappd), this style is only really brewed in Bamberg (the brewing Gods own town in Bavaria).
Brauerei Schwanen sign
I realised I hadn't taken a photograph at Brauerei Schwerte but had time to go back that way on route to the station, I got my photo then nipped back in to try a swift Lager Hell 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) definitely a top brewery this!
Brauerei Schwerte, Ehingen
Even better I had planned the lunchtime session around 218 409 being on the train back to Ulm (this being the only loco hauled service on this line) where I reclaimed my bag from the left luggage locker and jumped on the IC train to Munich.
218 409 Ehingen - Ulm Hbf 1122 Donaueschingen - Ulm 33km
120 102) Ulm Hbf - Munich Hbf 1206 Karlsruhe - Munich 148km
101 054 Top & Tail)
A 10 minute walk along Seidlstrasse to the Lowenbraukeller , where I had a Dunkel 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) and a plate of beef stew with dumplings. I should of had a 2nd beer but the food came quickly, after finishing it time was getting tight to find the Spaten Braustuberl.
Lowenbraukeller, Munich
The Spaten brewery was soon located (on Marrstrasse) but no pub, so walked completely around the roads that flank the brewery and found nothing but there was a big hole next door where obviously another tower block is going up - maybe this was formerly the brewery Tap? Anyway back to the station for Top & Tail 218 diesels to Geltendorf, departing 13 minutes earlier than previously thought so maybe a good job that pub couldn't be found!
218 424) Munich Hbf - Geltendorf 1638 Munich - Kempten(Allgau) 42km
218 421 Top & Tail)
My idea was to go to Geltendorf and double back to Munich for the EC Zurich train (with a pair of 218 diesels) but after waiting 20 minutes the train from Fussen arrived and was being run by BRB, a private company on which my FIP free passes are not valid. A planning error - by me!
When I started train travel in Germany in 1989 all trains were run by DB so our passes were valid on all of them but an awful lot of privatisation has happened since then - so you have to be careful or buy tickets!
There was an outside chance of a slightly quicker journey from here but again not to be due to further late running so upstairs for a quick beer in the amiable surroundings of Correus bakery & cafe bar, nice window seat accompanied with a bottle of Krombacher Weizen 5.3% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) and use of the toilets, this proved a very good move due to what followed!
The next train was IC2791, loco hauled instead of an ICE train - oh dear absolutely full and standing throughout - everyone who joined here was stood up for the next 90 minutes so I consoled myself with a bottle of Kostritzer Schwarzbier 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) a consistently good black beer. Fortunately, after a mass exodus at Frankfurt Hbf seats were again available so settled down for a snooze to avoid the full 3 hour journey to follow.
120 123 Hannover - Kassel W 1410 Hamburg A. - Karlsruhe
101 069 Kassel W. - Ulm Hbf 1506 Hamburg A. - Munich
(Via Frankfurt & Stuttgart)
Arrival into Ulm was at about 2230 to find check in closed at the Ibis budget (5mins from the station) but a very good computer check-in available in the hotel entrance got me into the room within a few minutes. I sorted my clothes for the morning then crossed the road to the Hackor-Pschorr pub, Sterngasse 17, which is fortunately open until midnight. I had a draft Edelhell 5.5% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by a draft Kellerbier (which I rated 4.25 on Untappd) a nice beer to finish the night on - and to bed.
Friday 5th April 2019
In theory a relaxed start for the 0817 train, of course I woke a bit earlier so headed to the busy station, got a coffee & breakfast sandwich and put my bag in a locker as plenty of time to collect it later, then onto the platforms to view a few trains.
I had time to walk over a huge footbridge to the far side of the sidings to check which diesel locos were stabled waiting their next duties - these included 218417 my last required Ulm diesel - oh well there's always another day.
Back to the station, 218409 was to work the 0817 train, 1 hour 45 minutes to enjoy the loco through some stunning scenery, especially the section after Sigmaringen to Beuron. It was a fairly empty train so no problem opening the window fully (they drop down to about your midriff) to listen to the loco thrash away from each station.
218 409 Ulm Hbf - Beuron 0817 Ulm - Donaueschingen 116km
612 502 Beuron - Ehingen (Donau) 0922 Donaueschingen - Ulm 82km
The furthest of the 3 brewpubs in Ehingen, Brauerei Rossle, is only 700 metres from the railway station so headed there first, on entering the brewery and going upstairs to the bar it was found to be locked, so back outside where some brewery staff were doing off sales (filling locals boots with crates of beer) and found out the bar was not opening until 4pm (shows 11am in the Camra Good Beer Guide to Germany) so no good for today then!
So steps were retraced as had passed the Schwerte brewpub on the way - this was definitely open (it was now 1130am) so tried their Dunkles once the barman had finished his dinner. Their Dunkles (no ABV) was great (so I rated it 4.25 on Untappd) then enquired if their Wheat beer was on draft - no only bottles - so opted for another pint of Dunkles.
Off into the town centre to find Brauerei Schwanen , only a 4 minute walk, where the first beer tried was their Jubelbier 5.2% (which I rated 4.25 on Untappd) and while drinking this I spotted that Rauchbier was their beer of the month. A must try so ordered one - it came out of the pump full of yeast. I raised this with the barmaid just as the head brewer was walking past (deliberately) he gave us both a description of how the yeast can settle in clumps, then get into the pipe (I knew this) then showed her how to pull a couple more through until it regained its usual consistency. I could now sample the beer, the aroma was smokey by it didn't follow through onto the palate - refreshing and still a good attempt (I rated it 3.75 on UnTappd), this style is only really brewed in Bamberg (the brewing Gods own town in Bavaria).
I realised I hadn't taken a photograph at Brauerei Schwerte but had time to go back that way on route to the station, I got my photo then nipped back in to try a swift Lager Hell 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) definitely a top brewery this!
Even better I had planned the lunchtime session around 218 409 being on the train back to Ulm (this being the only loco hauled service on this line) where I reclaimed my bag from the left luggage locker and jumped on the IC train to Munich.
218 409 Ehingen - Ulm Hbf 1122 Donaueschingen - Ulm 33km
120 102) Ulm Hbf - Munich Hbf 1206 Karlsruhe - Munich 148km
101 054 Top & Tail)
A 10 minute walk along Seidlstrasse to the Lowenbraukeller , where I had a Dunkel 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) and a plate of beef stew with dumplings. I should of had a 2nd beer but the food came quickly, after finishing it time was getting tight to find the Spaten Braustuberl.
Lowenbraukeller, Munich
218 424) Munich Hbf - Geltendorf 1638 Munich - Kempten(Allgau) 42km
218 421 Top & Tail)
My idea was to go to Geltendorf and double back to Munich for the EC Zurich train (with a pair of 218 diesels) but after waiting 20 minutes the train from Fussen arrived and was being run by BRB, a private company on which my FIP free passes are not valid. A planning error - by me!
When I started train travel in Germany in 1989 all trains were run by DB so our passes were valid on all of them but an awful lot of privatisation has happened since then - so you have to be careful or buy tickets!
Anyway I watched the train go - it was 1/2 hour to the next train out of dodge, I went for a stroll just in case there was a pub even though nothing was showing up on my phone. No luck so into the Edeka supermarket across from the station where 3 big fridges full of beers awaited - why can't supermarkets in the UK be so obliging with their Real Ales? I purchased a bottle of Augustiner Lagerbier Hell 5.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) and sat on a station bench to wait.
Units Geltendorf - Buchloe 1740 Munich - Memmingen 26km
The units turned up on time for the 16 minute journey to Buchloe where with about a 40 minute wait for the EC train I went in search of a bar. It's a railway junction small town so there's never really been a lot here, however I was in luck as I found Cafe Royal which stocked Atienbrauerei Kaufbeuren (AKB) bottled beers and had a very friendly barmaid who kindly entered their wifi code into my phone for me. I tried a bottle of AKB Dunkle 'Urbayerisch' 5% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd), the least enjoyable Dunkel I'd tried today. The hellfire barmaid made up for it though! Back to the station for the pair of 218's to Kempten then a unit to Kaufbeuren for my hotel, the Ibis Styles.
218 463) Buchloe - Kempten 1815 Munich - Zurich 63km
218 429)
Unit Kempten - Kaufbeuren 1920 Oberstdorf - Munich 20km
An interesting evening in Kaufbeuren followed after check-in at the hotel, I was out about 2100, my main aim was to find the Communebraurei Zoigl tap, this is where the brewing equipment is used by different members of the community and in this case sold from one outlet (in some villages different residents houses are used to sell the beer with a sign in the window so you know where to go!). Only the one beer is brewed so it was Zoigl Original 5.5% I ordered (which I rated 4.25 on UnTapped) and after confirmation from the barman/brewer that it was indeed the only beer available I had another.
I then set off to walk about a mile, about half of which was steeply uphill to find the Adlerkeller (beers from Irseer Klosterbrau, a new brewery for me). I needn't have bothered - on entering the empty bar with no other clientele whatsoever the old dear behind the bar asked me if I was eating - "No" I answered. "Oh well you can't have a drink if you're not eating, it confuses those that do want to eat!! We've a big group coming for food after the Ice Hockey finishes". Thanks love, I've only gone well out of my way to get here. Disillusioned by all this I walked back via a different but signposted route to the hotel as I really couldn't be bothered to try to find another pub - especially as I wasn't eating! The Ibis Styles bar had a couple of Eurofizz beers on draft but also some real beers in bottles so I settled down to try a couple of these with a bowl of complementary peanuts to nibble on. First up was AKB Dunkel 'Urbayerisch' 5% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) followed by a Brauerei Unert Haag Weissbier 4.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) not a bad version of the style. During this time lots of people were checking into the hotel - the Ice Hockey had seemingly finished as they were all fans or participants of the sport according to the gear they were wearing
Saturday 6th April 2019
Breakfast started at 7am so I was there on the dot, just right before my 0742 train to Buchloe to pick up the EC diesel hauled service.
223 072 Kaufbeuren - Buchloe 0611 Oberstdorf - Munich 20km
218 403) Buchloe - Kempten 0714 Munich - Zurich 63km
218 497)
I needed to get to Oberstdorf for 218's on an IC service, so I bought a ticket for about 10 Euros as my free passes are not valid on Alex services (another private operator) this train splits at Immenstadt with the rear 3 coaches going to Oberstdorf in the mountains behind another loco. I had found out privately owned 218 447 was probably working these trains, I was hoping so as it was the first sunny day of the trip with blue skies and snow on the mountains.
E20-01 Kempten - Immenstadt 0720 Munich - Lindau/Oberstdorf 21km
No problems at Immenstadt as 218 447 was sitting outside the station waiting to back onto our train!
218447 at Immenstadt before departure
I got a compartment to myself (after checking the window opened fully) and a fantastic run followed down the branch line to Oberstdorf - I had the window open for the diesel thrash & to better admire the awesome scenery.
218 447 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 0914 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 21km
After a top run down the line with it's many twists and turns (a few lineside photographers were in evidence) we rolled into Oberstdorf where for some reason the IC had a 218 loco on each end instead of both locos paired up on the front. This would mean only 1 loco working the train as far as Immenstadt with hopefully them then being paired up to work the train forward. On arrival at Immenstadt there was time to nip to the station shop to buy a beer for the journey through to Memmingen (there being no buffet car on the train just a trolley service) while the shunter detached the loco & it ran round to pair up with the other engine. On departure it became clear that we still had 1 loco on each end! A technical problem with the loco on the rear apparently so it was left to be dragged dead - thanks then!
218434 on IC2012 at Oberstdorf
218 434 Oberstdorf - Immenstadt 0951 Oberstdorf - Westerland 21km
(218 495 dead on rear)
218 495 Immenstadt - Memmingen 0951 Oberstdorf - Westerland 56km
(218 434 dead on rear)
I opened my bottle of Zotler Hefeweizen Hell 5.2% on leaving Immenstadt (which I rated at 3.75 on UnTappd) while the single 218 wound it's way through the Bavarian hills.
I had chosen Memmingen as todays lunchtime location, I'd never been outside the station here before (but have probably travelled through here a few dozen times!) and it is only a 20 minute journey to get back to Kempten for more 218's after. A longish walk to Engelkeller, shown in the GBG Germany as the Memminger brewery tap - but only had their beers in bottles so must have changed in recent years. No problem as I'd passed my other intended venue the Barfusser brewpub just beforehand so back to that instead. Very pleasant inside with a good sized biergarten outside, I was eating so stayed inside.
Barfusser Memmingen
Good service too, I soon had a Barfusser Blonde 5% in front of me (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) while deciding what to eat. I chose a bowl of their excellent Haxentopf stew with bread and washed this down with a Barfusser "Weisse" 5% (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd). Refreshed , there was still time to find a Memminger brewery outlet, you'd think it shouldn't be too hard in Memmingen? Wrong, I ended up in Arkadia, somewhere they also only had bottles of their beer - but at least they had a biergarten as it was by now a very pleasant day. Memminger Gold Exportbier 5.3% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
Sign outside the Arkadia showing its former heritage as a pub
I made my way back to the station for a unit to Kempten.
Unit Memmingen - Kempten 1217 Ulm Hbf - Kempten 35km
218 433 Kempten - Lindau 1214 Munich - St.Gallen (CH) 89km
So after suffering the IC from Oberstdorf with a single loco (vice a pair) I now suffered the same fate on the EC from Kempten. At least the stunning route made up for it.
Shaken if not stirred on arrival at Lindau I headed for the hellfire station Kneipe for a draft Paulaner Munchner Hell 4.9% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd), great little shack with harbour views - without even leaving the station.
Station Kneipe, Lindau
As 218 433 had worked my train in I knew that by diagram it would work my train out. Should be a pair of 218's & a pair were in the sidings for a later train - would the driver do me a favour and swop locos? Of course not!
218432 on the 1505 Lindau to Aulendorf (vice 245 loco)
218433 on EC195 to Munich
The 2 first class coaches & panoramic viewing coach were at the front so I settled for the buffet coach where I ordered a bottle of Swiss Wheatbeer namely Feldsclosschen brewery Wiezen Blanche 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) strangely I didn't enjoy the uphill run as much as I'd thought I would. Still enjoyable though!
218433 Lindau - Kempten 1513 Lindau - Munich 89km
I now made what turned out to be a top decision - namely go back to Immenstadt for 218 447 instead of waiting an hour at Kempten for 2x218 on the IC service, my hotel for this evening being in Sonthofen (on the Oberstdorf branch).
Unit Kempten - Immenstadt 1518 Ulm - Oberstdorf 21km
I purchased a ticket to Oberstdorf (6 Euros) then had 1/2 an hour before my 1714 train - so across the road into Vis a Vis bar where draft Zotler Hefeweizen Hell 5.2% was available.
Zotler Hefeweizen glass
I sat outside watching 218 447 arrive then shunt its portion onto the main train which had come up from Lindau while relaxing out front of the bar in the sunshine. The run down the branch that followed was as good as in the morning and this time I was just a couple of compartments from the loco - again with the window fully open throughout, more lineside photographers were seen on route.
218 447 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 1714 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 21km
On arrival at Oberstdorf it was straight into the Dampfbierbrauerei (literally 1 minute across the road) which somehow over the years I'd never done. I ordered a Dampfbier Hell 5% and was asked if I wanted large or small. Normally I always have large (either .4 or .5 of a litre) so I said large - and was shown a Munich Octoberfest stein - "this is large"! so no I will have the small (.4 of a litre) as "I've already had about 8 beers mate". I rated the Hell as 4.0 on UnTappd then sampled a Dampfbier Weizen 5.2% (which I rated as 3.5 on UnTappd).
Weizen glass
218 447 Oberstdorf - Sonthofen 1823 Oberstdorf - Immenstadt 13km
It doesn't get much better, a short stroll in Sonthofen where I would be staying at Brauerei-Gasthof Hirsch.
Hirsch Brewery
I think Sonthofen should be re-named "HirschVille" as I didn't come across any pubs or bars not selling their beers! A complete contrast with Memmingen earlier. I checked in an hour earlier than I'd planned so had forty winks followed by a shower - all freshened up I sat at the bar for a drink at about 2045, I had a draft Winter Festbier 5.6% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) then I moved on to the "'s Handwerk" (strange name) restaurant / bar where half the place had been given over to a wedding do, everyone else was crammed into the other half. Eventually chose a draft Hirsch Holzar Bier 5.2% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) and found a seat.
There's not a lot else beer/pub wise in Sonthofen but I had passed a small bar - the Sky Sports Bar - so decided to give it a try. I had a bottle of Hirsch Gold 5.2% and between playing (& winning) on a fruit machine, with help from the owner, and talking to a couple who came in as the place quietened down, I really enjoyed it.
Then it was back round the corner to the Hirsch brewpub, same seat at the bar as earlier - I ordered a bottle of their Dunkle Hefe Weisse 5.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). I was talking to the Landlady in-between her serving and clearing up, I asked for another beer - sorry we are closed! I'd almost certainly had enough anyway so upstairs for a really good nights sleep.
Sunday 7th April 2019
In theory no rush this morning but after a good breakfast (although nothing hot available) I checked out and realised I could do 218 447 to Immenstadt & back to Oberstdorf for the IC 218's on my booked move.
218 447 Sonthofen - Immenstadt 0822 Oberstdorf - Munich 8km
I got a coffee, then a bottle of beer for later, then I paid 6 euros for a ticket to Oberstdorf.
I checked the Immenstadt departures as the IC train was going to be my main move today before heading to the airport later - it showed Cancelled !
I had thought it odd that I didn't pass it on my way to Sonthofen last night, I just assumed it was running late. Obviously not, I later found out it was to start in Stuttgart today. After some frantic
on-line planning on my phone my only option was not to do 218 447 at all (bye bye 6 Euro's) but would have to do the next unit to Kempten and wait for the 218's on the EC instead.
Unit Immenstadt - Kempten 0841 Oberstdorf - Ulm 21km
50 minutes in Kempten at 0930 on a Sunday morning - not a lot going on!
I walked to the depot and photographed a 218 stabled there, then had a look round the station bookshop - hold on there's a bar but is it open this early? Yes it is, I wasn't really feeling like a beer but I got a quiet table in the "Gleis 7" bar and caught up on Saturdays football results & match reports over a draft Allgaeur brauhaus Urtyp Export 5.3% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
The EC train rolled in on time - thankfully with a pair of 218's as booked. I had worked out a move on this to Munich, back on the return EC to Buchloe (booked a different pair of 218's) for a unit to Memmingen for my flight home. Lets hope it all works out as this would only give me 53 minutes to go through customs and get to my gate.
218 429) Kempten - Munich 0543 Basel SBB - Munich 131km
218 463)
218429 on the blocks at Munich Hbf
Whilst in Munich on friday a hotel bar had been spotted advertising Tegernsee beers so headed straight over the road to the Peter & Wolff restaurant/bar very nice and no problem just ordering a drink here! - Tegernseer Hell 4.8% (on draft / which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
Refreshed I returned to the station concourse and quickly bought a bottle of beer then a chicken Caesar salad (this from Le Crobag) and after walking the length of the platform to get a photo I found the front bay was empty - time for lunch!
Caesar salad
The salad was good and the beer was Kulmbacher Brauerei Monchshof Kellerbier 5.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
218 403) Munich - Buchloe 1214 Munich - St.Gallen (CH) 68km
218 497)
Unit Buchloe - Memmingen 1220 Munich - Memmingen 46km
Bus Memmingen - Airport 1410 Memmingen - Airport
It was only 3 euros for the bus, I arrived at the airport at 1422 (for my 1515 flight) no problems at this small airport. I was through baggage & security check in about 2 minutes and was soon sat in "Coffee Fellows" outside biergarten sipping a draft Meckatzer Weizen 5.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). In complete contrast to my outward flight it was a quiet one with mainly families onboard. I even got through Customs at Stansted airport much quicker than anticipated so I made an earlier train to Cambridge.
Unit Stansted Airport - Cambridge 1609 Stansted A. - Cambridge
This gave me time for a couple of quick beers here. I walked to the Smokeworks on station road where Brewsters brewery Hophead 3.8% was sampled (I rated it 3.75 on UnTappd) then back to 2 new venues in the station square.
First up was the Station Tavern for a nice pint of St.Austell brewery Proper Job 4.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) then into The Old Ticket Office for Three Blind Mice brewery Juice Rocket 4.5% (which I rated as 3.75 on UnTappd) this was unfined. I'm not a fan of unfined beers over here I just don't think it's done as well as abroad so I wish people would advertise if it is an unfined beer (some pubs already do this).
Proper Job
Unit Cambridge - Peterborough 1725 Stansted A. - Birmingham
Not much time here so across the dual carriageway to the Oakham Brewery Tap for a pint of their Citra 4.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
91101 Peterborough - Doncaster 1903 Kings X - Leeds
Unit Doncaster - Meadowhall 2051 Doncaster - Birmingham
Unit Meadowhall - Barnsley 2127 Sheffield - Hull
Conclusion
Although the trip had an inauspicious start with the 2 Stag do's on the outward flight, most of my objectives were met both on the train and beer / brewery side. The railways in Germany are far from the efficient system of former days but still being able to travel diesel hauled & with its many & varied breweries & brewpubs it is still an interesting destination.
Units Geltendorf - Buchloe 1740 Munich - Memmingen 26km
The units turned up on time for the 16 minute journey to Buchloe where with about a 40 minute wait for the EC train I went in search of a bar. It's a railway junction small town so there's never really been a lot here, however I was in luck as I found Cafe Royal which stocked Atienbrauerei Kaufbeuren (AKB) bottled beers and had a very friendly barmaid who kindly entered their wifi code into my phone for me. I tried a bottle of AKB Dunkle 'Urbayerisch' 5% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd), the least enjoyable Dunkel I'd tried today. The hellfire barmaid made up for it though! Back to the station for the pair of 218's to Kempten then a unit to Kaufbeuren for my hotel, the Ibis Styles.
218 463) Buchloe - Kempten 1815 Munich - Zurich 63km
218 429)
Unit Kempten - Kaufbeuren 1920 Oberstdorf - Munich 20km
An interesting evening in Kaufbeuren followed after check-in at the hotel, I was out about 2100, my main aim was to find the Communebraurei Zoigl tap, this is where the brewing equipment is used by different members of the community and in this case sold from one outlet (in some villages different residents houses are used to sell the beer with a sign in the window so you know where to go!). Only the one beer is brewed so it was Zoigl Original 5.5% I ordered (which I rated 4.25 on UnTapped) and after confirmation from the barman/brewer that it was indeed the only beer available I had another.
I then set off to walk about a mile, about half of which was steeply uphill to find the Adlerkeller (beers from Irseer Klosterbrau, a new brewery for me). I needn't have bothered - on entering the empty bar with no other clientele whatsoever the old dear behind the bar asked me if I was eating - "No" I answered. "Oh well you can't have a drink if you're not eating, it confuses those that do want to eat!! We've a big group coming for food after the Ice Hockey finishes". Thanks love, I've only gone well out of my way to get here. Disillusioned by all this I walked back via a different but signposted route to the hotel as I really couldn't be bothered to try to find another pub - especially as I wasn't eating! The Ibis Styles bar had a couple of Eurofizz beers on draft but also some real beers in bottles so I settled down to try a couple of these with a bowl of complementary peanuts to nibble on. First up was AKB Dunkel 'Urbayerisch' 5% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) followed by a Brauerei Unert Haag Weissbier 4.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) not a bad version of the style. During this time lots of people were checking into the hotel - the Ice Hockey had seemingly finished as they were all fans or participants of the sport according to the gear they were wearing
Saturday 6th April 2019
Breakfast started at 7am so I was there on the dot, just right before my 0742 train to Buchloe to pick up the EC diesel hauled service.
223 072 Kaufbeuren - Buchloe 0611 Oberstdorf - Munich 20km
218 403) Buchloe - Kempten 0714 Munich - Zurich 63km
218 497)
I needed to get to Oberstdorf for 218's on an IC service, so I bought a ticket for about 10 Euros as my free passes are not valid on Alex services (another private operator) this train splits at Immenstadt with the rear 3 coaches going to Oberstdorf in the mountains behind another loco. I had found out privately owned 218 447 was probably working these trains, I was hoping so as it was the first sunny day of the trip with blue skies and snow on the mountains.
E20-01 Kempten - Immenstadt 0720 Munich - Lindau/Oberstdorf 21km
No problems at Immenstadt as 218 447 was sitting outside the station waiting to back onto our train!
I got a compartment to myself (after checking the window opened fully) and a fantastic run followed down the branch line to Oberstdorf - I had the window open for the diesel thrash & to better admire the awesome scenery.
218 447 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 0914 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 21km
After a top run down the line with it's many twists and turns (a few lineside photographers were in evidence) we rolled into Oberstdorf where for some reason the IC had a 218 loco on each end instead of both locos paired up on the front. This would mean only 1 loco working the train as far as Immenstadt with hopefully them then being paired up to work the train forward. On arrival at Immenstadt there was time to nip to the station shop to buy a beer for the journey through to Memmingen (there being no buffet car on the train just a trolley service) while the shunter detached the loco & it ran round to pair up with the other engine. On departure it became clear that we still had 1 loco on each end! A technical problem with the loco on the rear apparently so it was left to be dragged dead - thanks then!
218 434 Oberstdorf - Immenstadt 0951 Oberstdorf - Westerland 21km
(218 495 dead on rear)
218 495 Immenstadt - Memmingen 0951 Oberstdorf - Westerland 56km
(218 434 dead on rear)
I opened my bottle of Zotler Hefeweizen Hell 5.2% on leaving Immenstadt (which I rated at 3.75 on UnTappd) while the single 218 wound it's way through the Bavarian hills.
I had chosen Memmingen as todays lunchtime location, I'd never been outside the station here before (but have probably travelled through here a few dozen times!) and it is only a 20 minute journey to get back to Kempten for more 218's after. A longish walk to Engelkeller, shown in the GBG Germany as the Memminger brewery tap - but only had their beers in bottles so must have changed in recent years. No problem as I'd passed my other intended venue the Barfusser brewpub just beforehand so back to that instead. Very pleasant inside with a good sized biergarten outside, I was eating so stayed inside.
Good service too, I soon had a Barfusser Blonde 5% in front of me (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) while deciding what to eat. I chose a bowl of their excellent Haxentopf stew with bread and washed this down with a Barfusser "Weisse" 5% (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd). Refreshed , there was still time to find a Memminger brewery outlet, you'd think it shouldn't be too hard in Memmingen? Wrong, I ended up in Arkadia, somewhere they also only had bottles of their beer - but at least they had a biergarten as it was by now a very pleasant day. Memminger Gold Exportbier 5.3% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd).
I made my way back to the station for a unit to Kempten.
Unit Memmingen - Kempten 1217 Ulm Hbf - Kempten 35km
218 433 Kempten - Lindau 1214 Munich - St.Gallen (CH) 89km
So after suffering the IC from Oberstdorf with a single loco (vice a pair) I now suffered the same fate on the EC from Kempten. At least the stunning route made up for it.
Shaken if not stirred on arrival at Lindau I headed for the hellfire station Kneipe for a draft Paulaner Munchner Hell 4.9% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd), great little shack with harbour views - without even leaving the station.
As 218 433 had worked my train in I knew that by diagram it would work my train out. Should be a pair of 218's & a pair were in the sidings for a later train - would the driver do me a favour and swop locos? Of course not!
The 2 first class coaches & panoramic viewing coach were at the front so I settled for the buffet coach where I ordered a bottle of Swiss Wheatbeer namely Feldsclosschen brewery Wiezen Blanche 5.2% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) strangely I didn't enjoy the uphill run as much as I'd thought I would. Still enjoyable though!
218433 Lindau - Kempten 1513 Lindau - Munich 89km
I now made what turned out to be a top decision - namely go back to Immenstadt for 218 447 instead of waiting an hour at Kempten for 2x218 on the IC service, my hotel for this evening being in Sonthofen (on the Oberstdorf branch).
Unit Kempten - Immenstadt 1518 Ulm - Oberstdorf 21km
I sat outside watching 218 447 arrive then shunt its portion onto the main train which had come up from Lindau while relaxing out front of the bar in the sunshine. The run down the branch that followed was as good as in the morning and this time I was just a couple of compartments from the loco - again with the window fully open throughout, more lineside photographers were seen on route.
218 447 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 1714 Immenstadt - Oberstdorf 21km
On arrival at Oberstdorf it was straight into the Dampfbierbrauerei (literally 1 minute across the road) which somehow over the years I'd never done. I ordered a Dampfbier Hell 5% and was asked if I wanted large or small. Normally I always have large (either .4 or .5 of a litre) so I said large - and was shown a Munich Octoberfest stein - "this is large"! so no I will have the small (.4 of a litre) as "I've already had about 8 beers mate". I rated the Hell as 4.0 on UnTappd then sampled a Dampfbier Weizen 5.2% (which I rated as 3.5 on UnTappd).
218 447 Oberstdorf - Sonthofen 1823 Oberstdorf - Immenstadt 13km
It doesn't get much better, a short stroll in Sonthofen where I would be staying at Brauerei-Gasthof Hirsch.
I think Sonthofen should be re-named "HirschVille" as I didn't come across any pubs or bars not selling their beers! A complete contrast with Memmingen earlier. I checked in an hour earlier than I'd planned so had forty winks followed by a shower - all freshened up I sat at the bar for a drink at about 2045, I had a draft Winter Festbier 5.6% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) then I moved on to the "'s Handwerk" (strange name) restaurant / bar where half the place had been given over to a wedding do, everyone else was crammed into the other half. Eventually chose a draft Hirsch Holzar Bier 5.2% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) and found a seat.
There's not a lot else beer/pub wise in Sonthofen but I had passed a small bar - the Sky Sports Bar - so decided to give it a try. I had a bottle of Hirsch Gold 5.2% and between playing (& winning) on a fruit machine, with help from the owner, and talking to a couple who came in as the place quietened down, I really enjoyed it.
Then it was back round the corner to the Hirsch brewpub, same seat at the bar as earlier - I ordered a bottle of their Dunkle Hefe Weisse 5.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). I was talking to the Landlady in-between her serving and clearing up, I asked for another beer - sorry we are closed! I'd almost certainly had enough anyway so upstairs for a really good nights sleep.
Sunday 7th April 2019
In theory no rush this morning but after a good breakfast (although nothing hot available) I checked out and realised I could do 218 447 to Immenstadt & back to Oberstdorf for the IC 218's on my booked move.
218 447 Sonthofen - Immenstadt 0822 Oberstdorf - Munich 8km
I got a coffee, then a bottle of beer for later, then I paid 6 euros for a ticket to Oberstdorf.
I checked the Immenstadt departures as the IC train was going to be my main move today before heading to the airport later - it showed Cancelled !
I had thought it odd that I didn't pass it on my way to Sonthofen last night, I just assumed it was running late. Obviously not, I later found out it was to start in Stuttgart today. After some frantic
on-line planning on my phone my only option was not to do 218 447 at all (bye bye 6 Euro's) but would have to do the next unit to Kempten and wait for the 218's on the EC instead.
Unit Immenstadt - Kempten 0841 Oberstdorf - Ulm 21km
50 minutes in Kempten at 0930 on a Sunday morning - not a lot going on!
I walked to the depot and photographed a 218 stabled there, then had a look round the station bookshop - hold on there's a bar but is it open this early? Yes it is, I wasn't really feeling like a beer but I got a quiet table in the "Gleis 7" bar and caught up on Saturdays football results & match reports over a draft Allgaeur brauhaus Urtyp Export 5.3% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
The EC train rolled in on time - thankfully with a pair of 218's as booked. I had worked out a move on this to Munich, back on the return EC to Buchloe (booked a different pair of 218's) for a unit to Memmingen for my flight home. Lets hope it all works out as this would only give me 53 minutes to go through customs and get to my gate.
218 429) Kempten - Munich 0543 Basel SBB - Munich 131km
218 463)
Whilst in Munich on friday a hotel bar had been spotted advertising Tegernsee beers so headed straight over the road to the Peter & Wolff restaurant/bar very nice and no problem just ordering a drink here! - Tegernseer Hell 4.8% (on draft / which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
Refreshed I returned to the station concourse and quickly bought a bottle of beer then a chicken Caesar salad (this from Le Crobag) and after walking the length of the platform to get a photo I found the front bay was empty - time for lunch!
The salad was good and the beer was Kulmbacher Brauerei Monchshof Kellerbier 5.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
218 403) Munich - Buchloe 1214 Munich - St.Gallen (CH) 68km
218 497)
Unit Buchloe - Memmingen 1220 Munich - Memmingen 46km
Bus Memmingen - Airport 1410 Memmingen - Airport
It was only 3 euros for the bus, I arrived at the airport at 1422 (for my 1515 flight) no problems at this small airport. I was through baggage & security check in about 2 minutes and was soon sat in "Coffee Fellows" outside biergarten sipping a draft Meckatzer Weizen 5.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). In complete contrast to my outward flight it was a quiet one with mainly families onboard. I even got through Customs at Stansted airport much quicker than anticipated so I made an earlier train to Cambridge.
Unit Stansted Airport - Cambridge 1609 Stansted A. - Cambridge
This gave me time for a couple of quick beers here. I walked to the Smokeworks on station road where Brewsters brewery Hophead 3.8% was sampled (I rated it 3.75 on UnTappd) then back to 2 new venues in the station square.
First up was the Station Tavern for a nice pint of St.Austell brewery Proper Job 4.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) then into The Old Ticket Office for Three Blind Mice brewery Juice Rocket 4.5% (which I rated as 3.75 on UnTappd) this was unfined. I'm not a fan of unfined beers over here I just don't think it's done as well as abroad so I wish people would advertise if it is an unfined beer (some pubs already do this).
Unit Cambridge - Peterborough 1725 Stansted A. - Birmingham
Not much time here so across the dual carriageway to the Oakham Brewery Tap for a pint of their Citra 4.2% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
91101 Peterborough - Doncaster 1903 Kings X - Leeds
Unit Doncaster - Meadowhall 2051 Doncaster - Birmingham
Unit Meadowhall - Barnsley 2127 Sheffield - Hull
Conclusion
Although the trip had an inauspicious start with the 2 Stag do's on the outward flight, most of my objectives were met both on the train and beer / brewery side. The railways in Germany are far from the efficient system of former days but still being able to travel diesel hauled & with its many & varied breweries & brewpubs it is still an interesting destination.
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