Germany 2018 - Rhein in Flammen
A trip based around a railtour being run by Treysa e.V in Germany using diesel loco 212 372 to the “Rhein in Flame” fireworks event around the Koblenz area. After a few months of planning there would be 3 of us meeting up in Germany to do a bit of beer drinking and train travel for a couple of days prior to the railtour. I lost the original report for this trip (I.T. issues) so some of the detail is missing &/or assumed.
Wednesday 08/08/18
My German Wings flight booking next day had been changed by the airline from a sociable 1125 to Bonn to an unsociable 0655 to Dusseldorf! Due to this I made my way over to Manchester this evening where I had booked a hotel across the road from Manchester Piccadilly. I had arranged to meet a former work colleague, Howey, in the Piccadilly Tap pub on the station approach, he then took me on a tour of some of the new wave “Craft” beer bars that have opened in central Manchester over the last couple of years – only Real Ale from the handpump for me of course.
In the Tap I had a Ridgeside brewery Black Night stout 5.0% (which I rated 3.50 on UnTappd) next stop was the Soup Kitchen, first up was Cwrw Lal brewery Pothole Porter 5.1% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) then a Pilot brewery SUP IPA 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). Jack in the Box came next for a Stubborn Mule brewery Original Chocolate stout 5.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
Stubborn Mule Pump clip
We moved on again to Café Beermoth, I had a Fallen Brew Co Local Motive 3.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by our final venue the Crown & Kettle where I sampled Siren Craft brew Broken Dream Breakfast stout 6.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). Sozzled, I returned to the hotel somewhat the worse for wear but managed a bar snack before retiring to my room.
Thursday 09/08/18
I don’t remember much from first thing this morning, just a shower followed by a train from Piccadilly to the airport. No problems with the flight, I got the next available train to Dusseldorf where I was meeting another of our party, Selby State. We had time for a couple of beers in the nearby Brauerei Schumacher, namely Schumacher Alt bier 4.6% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
146 269 Dusseldorf Hbf – Cologne 1246 Dusseldorf – Cologne 44km
Here we met the 3rd member of our drinking team, Kapur (yes BigNose himself), I had a plan to visit Brauhaus Gaststätte Schreckenskammer, a little off the beaten track – but a notice outside said they were on their annual holidays (it is family run). We had a back up pub “just around the corner” apparently – the Gaststätte Ursulakloster, but we couldn’t find it! We had passed a little bar in our efforts so this would have to do, Café Stovchen,Ursalakloster 4, where we all had draft Reissdorf Kolsch 4.8% (.2 litre / this is the standard Kolsch glass size) which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). By the time we got the first drink we were ready for another so a second round was ordered. Rested & refreshed we moved a bit nearer to the station to Dominikaner, An den Dominikanern 2, where further draft Reissdorf Kolsch was ordered (thankfully in .4 litre glasses this time) followed by a rush to pay up as the barmaid went missing and we had a train to catch! No problem in the end as our train turned out to be a little late anyway.
101 004 Cologne – Bonn 1400 Cologne – Bonn 45km
We exited Bonn Hbf to find a building site, we hadn’t gone far when a Thunderstorm broke overhead – time to hide undercover outside a department store with many of the locals. After about 7 minutes the rain eased so we finished our walk to the Brauhaus Bronnsch.
We tried inside but the heat was stifling, we then got lucky as we found the only dry table outside, just about under cover. We first tried Bonnsch Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) then ordered some food. I had a bowl of goulash soup, washed down with Bonnsch naturlich und hefetrub 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). A good brewpub albeit a bit claustrophobic inside.
Unit Bonn – Ahrweiler Markt 1647 Bonn – Ahrbruck 12km
I had booked the Hotel Annchen, Niederhutstrasse 11-13, a lovely hotel in this picturesque town.
Hotel Annchen
We had no prior knowledge the area was this nice but thought it would be. Very unspoilt medieval German. After checking in 2 of us went straight across the street into Gaststätte Treffpunkt where Gaffel Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) was the order of the day. Kapur arrived so another Kolsch each. Our next port of call was just a few doors along the street, Bells WeinRestaurant & Biergarten. Despite the long name this is a brewpub! We sat outside to enjoy the lovely evening. Meals and beer were ordered. I started with a Bell’s Ahrweiler Landbier (no ABV available) which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd. The food arrived and was washed down with their Ahrweiler Hausbrau Hefeweizen (no ABV available) which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd.
Bells brewpub beer glass
After our pleasant tea we wandered towards the station, we found a bar just before it so popped in for a “quick one” to see if it would be the sort of place to finish the night later. A Reissdorf Kolsch and chat to the landlord – we asked what time he closed, he replied “the darts team normally leave about 1am” so we promised to see him later!
Unit Ahrweiler Markt – Bad Neuenahr 2003 Ahrbruck – Bonn 4km
We were planning to visit the Neuenahrer Brauhaus , a large establishment but “Ruhetag Donnerstag” – “Closed Thursdays”! It’s an annoying thing in Germany, most establishments have a day off but even in the age of the Internet it’s not uncommon to find a well-planned trip ruined as the owner has recently changed which day to close. One of our party berated me for this but the two of us pointed out that around here these things do happen. Anyway, time to look for somewhere to drink, just around the corner we found the quirky Drei Musketiere (Dance Hall). An outside table to view a bit of street life, a couple more Reissdorf Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) were imbibed. We moved a bit nearer to the station and found Langis Dartkneipe Quellenhofstube a real boozer with 2 dart matches going on, all the teams having full team T-shirts etc. Seats were found at the bar, good fun – I cannot remember which beer we had though.
Unit Bad Neuenahr – Ahrweiler 4km
We decided to walk from Ahrweiler to Ahrweiler Markt in case there was a pub on route – the first place we came across was just around the corner from our hotel, not to worry it wasn’t a long walk anyway. This was Pizzeria Rendezvous where a half litre bottle of Fruh Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd) was most welcome. It was getting late, but we’d promised to return to bar Pumpe and again it wasn’t far to walk. So, we crowded round the bar with various regulars, many of whom were smoking, it’s the norm in a boozer of this ilk. A couple of Reissdorf Kolsch’s later I changed to a half litre of draft Paulaner Hefeweizen 5.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) with a whisky chaser – an obvious sign I’d had too much to drink!
Bar Pumpe
Friday 10/08/18
I was surprisingly ok by breakfast time, after checking out we had time for a slow stroll to the station, just a simple couple of trains to get us to Frankfurt for an afternoon session – well that was the plan anyway.
Unit Ahrweiler Markt – Remagen 0903 Ahrbruck – Bonn 12km
A booked 4-minute connection at Remagen onto IC119 for a run down the scenic Rhine river to Mainz – oh look IC119 is cancelled! It only runs all the way to Innsbruck, but not today apparently. No option but to sit outside a café for a not really required coffee while we worked out a new move.
146 262 Remagen – Koblenz 0811 Wesel – Koblenz 77km
With no trains immediately going towards Mainz or Frankfurt we ventured out to find a pub although it was still before 11am. On a nearby corner is the Konigsbacher Treff, Lohrstrasse 143, where someone spotted Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel on draft so 3 of those please. On posting the beer on UnTappd I noticed it was 7%! I had to finish Kapur's beer as the strength and early hour got to him.
101 123 Koblenz – Mainz 1130 Koblenz – Mainz 91km
We boarded the train directly into the buffet car – a table of four had just been vacated on the side the Rhine runs down – result. 3 draft Bitburger Pils 4.8% were ordered, we might be getting to Frankfurt a couple of hours later than planned but at least we could really enjoy this part of the journey.
143 166 Mainz – Romisches Theater 2km
S Bahn Romisches Theater – Frankfurt Airport
3 grown men on an S bahn train to Frankfurt with no toilets for 45 minutes. No good, we all needed to jump off at the airport station to use the toilets!
S Bahn Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt Hauptwache
So, our simple plan had been ripped to shreds. Oh well, we are here now albeit 2 hours late.
A re-hashed itinerary so we tried to jump into a taxi to find our first brewpub – don’t bother lads just walk straight down that road said the taxi driver. Fair enough, BrauStil, Oeder Weg 57, I tried a BrauStil Helles 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) although the more I drank the less I thought of it.
We first had a celebratory drink at the Konigsbacher Treff over the road, again sampling the draft Andechser Doppelbock Dunkle 7%, at a much more sensible time of day!
My research had found 3 local breweries, 2 of which were quite near to each other being only a short hop on a train away.
Unit Koblenz – Oberlahnstein 1821 Neuweid – Frankfurt
We walked to the Lahnsteiner Brauerei, on this probably the busiest night of the year in Koblenz to find it “Ruhetag”. I’m sure no-one wants a drink on a Saturday evening…….. Resigned to our fate we found a sports bar within sight of the brewery gates, the Café Fiduzit where we had a Lahnsteiner Fursten-Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd). Unperturbed (!) we caught a unit one stop to Niederlahnstein then walked the kilometre to Maximilians Brauwiesen, a nice level walk. It soon became apparent that not only was it open but was mobbed with literally thousands of people inside!
Maximilians is huge, several large rooms, an outside eating area, then grassy fields leading down to an outdoor barbeque and picnicking area and finally ending at the river. Even so, try as we might, we couldn’t find anywhere unreserved to have a meal & some beer!
We asked a couple if we could sit at their table, no problem just pull up an extra chair. Great!
Wednesday 08/08/18
My German Wings flight booking next day had been changed by the airline from a sociable 1125 to Bonn to an unsociable 0655 to Dusseldorf! Due to this I made my way over to Manchester this evening where I had booked a hotel across the road from Manchester Piccadilly. I had arranged to meet a former work colleague, Howey, in the Piccadilly Tap pub on the station approach, he then took me on a tour of some of the new wave “Craft” beer bars that have opened in central Manchester over the last couple of years – only Real Ale from the handpump for me of course.
In the Tap I had a Ridgeside brewery Black Night stout 5.0% (which I rated 3.50 on UnTappd) next stop was the Soup Kitchen, first up was Cwrw Lal brewery Pothole Porter 5.1% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) then a Pilot brewery SUP IPA 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). Jack in the Box came next for a Stubborn Mule brewery Original Chocolate stout 5.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd)
We moved on again to Café Beermoth, I had a Fallen Brew Co Local Motive 3.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) followed by our final venue the Crown & Kettle where I sampled Siren Craft brew Broken Dream Breakfast stout 6.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). Sozzled, I returned to the hotel somewhat the worse for wear but managed a bar snack before retiring to my room.
Thursday 09/08/18
I don’t remember much from first thing this morning, just a shower followed by a train from Piccadilly to the airport. No problems with the flight, I got the next available train to Dusseldorf where I was meeting another of our party, Selby State. We had time for a couple of beers in the nearby Brauerei Schumacher, namely Schumacher Alt bier 4.6% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
146 269 Dusseldorf Hbf – Cologne 1246 Dusseldorf – Cologne 44km
Here we met the 3rd member of our drinking team, Kapur (yes BigNose himself), I had a plan to visit Brauhaus Gaststätte Schreckenskammer, a little off the beaten track – but a notice outside said they were on their annual holidays (it is family run). We had a back up pub “just around the corner” apparently – the Gaststätte Ursulakloster, but we couldn’t find it! We had passed a little bar in our efforts so this would have to do, Café Stovchen,Ursalakloster 4, where we all had draft Reissdorf Kolsch 4.8% (.2 litre / this is the standard Kolsch glass size) which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). By the time we got the first drink we were ready for another so a second round was ordered. Rested & refreshed we moved a bit nearer to the station to Dominikaner, An den Dominikanern 2, where further draft Reissdorf Kolsch was ordered (thankfully in .4 litre glasses this time) followed by a rush to pay up as the barmaid went missing and we had a train to catch! No problem in the end as our train turned out to be a little late anyway.
101 004 Cologne – Bonn 1400 Cologne – Bonn 45km
We exited Bonn Hbf to find a building site, we hadn’t gone far when a Thunderstorm broke overhead – time to hide undercover outside a department store with many of the locals. After about 7 minutes the rain eased so we finished our walk to the Brauhaus Bronnsch.
We tried inside but the heat was stifling, we then got lucky as we found the only dry table outside, just about under cover. We first tried Bonnsch Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) then ordered some food. I had a bowl of goulash soup, washed down with Bonnsch naturlich und hefetrub 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). A good brewpub albeit a bit claustrophobic inside.
Unit Bonn – Ahrweiler Markt 1647 Bonn – Ahrbruck 12km
I had booked the Hotel Annchen, Niederhutstrasse 11-13, a lovely hotel in this picturesque town.
We had no prior knowledge the area was this nice but thought it would be. Very unspoilt medieval German. After checking in 2 of us went straight across the street into Gaststätte Treffpunkt where Gaffel Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd) was the order of the day. Kapur arrived so another Kolsch each. Our next port of call was just a few doors along the street, Bells WeinRestaurant & Biergarten. Despite the long name this is a brewpub! We sat outside to enjoy the lovely evening. Meals and beer were ordered. I started with a Bell’s Ahrweiler Landbier (no ABV available) which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd. The food arrived and was washed down with their Ahrweiler Hausbrau Hefeweizen (no ABV available) which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd.
After our pleasant tea we wandered towards the station, we found a bar just before it so popped in for a “quick one” to see if it would be the sort of place to finish the night later. A Reissdorf Kolsch and chat to the landlord – we asked what time he closed, he replied “the darts team normally leave about 1am” so we promised to see him later!
Unit Ahrweiler Markt – Bad Neuenahr 2003 Ahrbruck – Bonn 4km
We were planning to visit the Neuenahrer Brauhaus , a large establishment but “Ruhetag Donnerstag” – “Closed Thursdays”! It’s an annoying thing in Germany, most establishments have a day off but even in the age of the Internet it’s not uncommon to find a well-planned trip ruined as the owner has recently changed which day to close. One of our party berated me for this but the two of us pointed out that around here these things do happen. Anyway, time to look for somewhere to drink, just around the corner we found the quirky Drei Musketiere (Dance Hall). An outside table to view a bit of street life, a couple more Reissdorf Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) were imbibed. We moved a bit nearer to the station and found Langis Dartkneipe Quellenhofstube a real boozer with 2 dart matches going on, all the teams having full team T-shirts etc. Seats were found at the bar, good fun – I cannot remember which beer we had though.
Unit Bad Neuenahr – Ahrweiler 4km
We decided to walk from Ahrweiler to Ahrweiler Markt in case there was a pub on route – the first place we came across was just around the corner from our hotel, not to worry it wasn’t a long walk anyway. This was Pizzeria Rendezvous where a half litre bottle of Fruh Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 4.25 on UnTappd) was most welcome. It was getting late, but we’d promised to return to bar Pumpe and again it wasn’t far to walk. So, we crowded round the bar with various regulars, many of whom were smoking, it’s the norm in a boozer of this ilk. A couple of Reissdorf Kolsch’s later I changed to a half litre of draft Paulaner Hefeweizen 5.5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) with a whisky chaser – an obvious sign I’d had too much to drink!
Friday 10/08/18
I was surprisingly ok by breakfast time, after checking out we had time for a slow stroll to the station, just a simple couple of trains to get us to Frankfurt for an afternoon session – well that was the plan anyway.
Unit Ahrweiler Markt – Remagen 0903 Ahrbruck – Bonn 12km
A booked 4-minute connection at Remagen onto IC119 for a run down the scenic Rhine river to Mainz – oh look IC119 is cancelled! It only runs all the way to Innsbruck, but not today apparently. No option but to sit outside a café for a not really required coffee while we worked out a new move.
146 262 Remagen – Koblenz 0811 Wesel – Koblenz 77km
With no trains immediately going towards Mainz or Frankfurt we ventured out to find a pub although it was still before 11am. On a nearby corner is the Konigsbacher Treff, Lohrstrasse 143, where someone spotted Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel on draft so 3 of those please. On posting the beer on UnTappd I noticed it was 7%! I had to finish Kapur's beer as the strength and early hour got to him.
101 123 Koblenz – Mainz 1130 Koblenz – Mainz 91km
We boarded the train directly into the buffet car – a table of four had just been vacated on the side the Rhine runs down – result. 3 draft Bitburger Pils 4.8% were ordered, we might be getting to Frankfurt a couple of hours later than planned but at least we could really enjoy this part of the journey.
143 166 Mainz – Romisches Theater 2km
S Bahn Romisches Theater – Frankfurt Airport
3 grown men on an S bahn train to Frankfurt with no toilets for 45 minutes. No good, we all needed to jump off at the airport station to use the toilets!
S Bahn Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt Hauptwache
So, our simple plan had been ripped to shreds. Oh well, we are here now albeit 2 hours late.
A re-hashed itinerary so we tried to jump into a taxi to find our first brewpub – don’t bother lads just walk straight down that road said the taxi driver. Fair enough, BrauStil, Oeder Weg 57, I tried a BrauStil Helles 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) although the more I drank the less I thought of it.
So, we only had the 1 drink here, deciding to walk to our next pub instead. I had worked out it was a nice walk, much of it through Eschenheimer Anlage park, while on route we were just walking past the Fein Trinkhalle when someone shouted out “that pubs got a bed in it!” so a quick bottle of Binding Romer Pils each due to the bizarreness of the establishment.
Myself & the bed!
Moving swiftly on to Zu den Zwolf Apostel, Rosenbergerstrasse 1, which I thought was just a pub but was in fact another brewpub – a good one at that.
Outside seating area, Zu den Zwolf Apostel
I ordered Goulash and their draft Hell 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) it was so good I had another Hell. We decided to walk to the next brewpub, but it turned out a much longer walk than we’d thought – we only had time to peer inside before deciding we’d better make our way to the station, see if we had time for a beer there before our train.
At the Hbf with time for a draft Krombacher Pils 4.8% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) at Café Uddin & Uddin on the concourse. Our next train was diesel hauled, albeit one of the new(ish) and totally silent 245 loco’s. The train conveys 2 portions which split at Bad Vilbel.
245 019 Frankfurt Hbf – Bad Vilbel 1716 Frankfurt – Stockheim 16km
245 016 Bad Vilbel – Friedberg 1716 Frankfurt – Nidda 18km
We walked to the Friedberger Brauhaus but I think they have stopped brewing so a draft Engel Landbier 4.8% instead (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). The pub is on the main shopping street with nothing else about, so we walked back to the station via a different route in case we found anywhere else to try – we were in luck with the Musikbistro Bei Kosta, an interesting place with a decent range of beers, we could definitely have stayed here longer but only time for 1 beer here. I had Sion Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) the pub had a very relaxing beer garden – out the front of the pub for a change.
146 252 Friedberg – Marburg 1820 Frankfurt – Kassel 62km
Marburg was to be our base for the next 2 nights, mainly because after the Fireworks in Koblenz on Saturday night the railtour wasn’t due back into Marburg until 0330 Sunday morning - this meant already having a key in your pocket for the hotel was a must!
Marburg is not the biggest town however I had found accommodation in Pension Elisabeth Brau, the rooms were upstairs with a brewpub in the Cellar beneath. This pub only opens Friday thru Sunday, so we had dropped on.
It's thirsty work writing all this - Buy me a Pint?
We had a short break to sort our gear in the rooms then out to find somewhere to eat, we didn’t have to go far managing to get a table in the Sudhaus (at Steinweg 44) next door, lots of (mainly young) people drinking in here, this was to become a theme for the night. We all ate here, I had at least one draft Kostitzer Schwarzbier 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) with my meal. Then next door into the Elisabeth Braukeller under our hotel, no phone signal here – I had a Kuhr Brau Kaffeebockle 4.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and we got chatting to the amiable Landlord, another keen beer enthusiast. He tipped us off about another pub run by a friend of his, in the Old town (we didn’t realise there was an Old town!) up the hill from our current location, so we headed that way with a promise to pop back in before he closed at 1am.
On rounding the corner half way up the hill, we found lots of proper, stone built, medieval buildings – a great surprise and must be worth a visit during the daytime if I ever return to Marburg. We found the Rohrender Hirsch from the directions given to us (a first?) but on entering we found a VERY mixed clientele. “I think we will only have one in here lads! said Kapur” so we ordered, then kept well out of the way while we drank. Our phones were telling us a few more pubs were to be found in the Old town, we could escape to them. I had a draft Riedenburger Ur-Helles (which I didn’t rate on UnTappd for some reason).
Our next port of call was Bierwerk, Hirschberg 12, with about 8 draft beers. This establishment was wedged full of 18 to 30-year olds, many of whom were very scantily clad. After ordering our beer and finding nowhere to sit on either of the 2 floors one of our party suggested we stood outside to drink –
Moving swiftly on to Zu den Zwolf Apostel, Rosenbergerstrasse 1, which I thought was just a pub but was in fact another brewpub – a good one at that.
I ordered Goulash and their draft Hell 5% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) it was so good I had another Hell. We decided to walk to the next brewpub, but it turned out a much longer walk than we’d thought – we only had time to peer inside before deciding we’d better make our way to the station, see if we had time for a beer there before our train.
At the Hbf with time for a draft Krombacher Pils 4.8% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) at Café Uddin & Uddin on the concourse. Our next train was diesel hauled, albeit one of the new(ish) and totally silent 245 loco’s. The train conveys 2 portions which split at Bad Vilbel.
245 019 Frankfurt Hbf – Bad Vilbel 1716 Frankfurt – Stockheim 16km
245 016 Bad Vilbel – Friedberg 1716 Frankfurt – Nidda 18km
We walked to the Friedberger Brauhaus but I think they have stopped brewing so a draft Engel Landbier 4.8% instead (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd). The pub is on the main shopping street with nothing else about, so we walked back to the station via a different route in case we found anywhere else to try – we were in luck with the Musikbistro Bei Kosta, an interesting place with a decent range of beers, we could definitely have stayed here longer but only time for 1 beer here. I had Sion Kolsch 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) the pub had a very relaxing beer garden – out the front of the pub for a change.
146 252 Friedberg – Marburg 1820 Frankfurt – Kassel 62km
Marburg was to be our base for the next 2 nights, mainly because after the Fireworks in Koblenz on Saturday night the railtour wasn’t due back into Marburg until 0330 Sunday morning - this meant already having a key in your pocket for the hotel was a must!
Marburg is not the biggest town however I had found accommodation in Pension Elisabeth Brau, the rooms were upstairs with a brewpub in the Cellar beneath. This pub only opens Friday thru Sunday, so we had dropped on.
It's thirsty work writing all this - Buy me a Pint?
We had a short break to sort our gear in the rooms then out to find somewhere to eat, we didn’t have to go far managing to get a table in the Sudhaus (at Steinweg 44) next door, lots of (mainly young) people drinking in here, this was to become a theme for the night. We all ate here, I had at least one draft Kostitzer Schwarzbier 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) with my meal. Then next door into the Elisabeth Braukeller under our hotel, no phone signal here – I had a Kuhr Brau Kaffeebockle 4.4% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and we got chatting to the amiable Landlord, another keen beer enthusiast. He tipped us off about another pub run by a friend of his, in the Old town (we didn’t realise there was an Old town!) up the hill from our current location, so we headed that way with a promise to pop back in before he closed at 1am.
On rounding the corner half way up the hill, we found lots of proper, stone built, medieval buildings – a great surprise and must be worth a visit during the daytime if I ever return to Marburg. We found the Rohrender Hirsch from the directions given to us (a first?) but on entering we found a VERY mixed clientele. “I think we will only have one in here lads! said Kapur” so we ordered, then kept well out of the way while we drank. Our phones were telling us a few more pubs were to be found in the Old town, we could escape to them. I had a draft Riedenburger Ur-Helles (which I didn’t rate on UnTappd for some reason).
Our next port of call was Bierwerk, Hirschberg 12, with about 8 draft beers. This establishment was wedged full of 18 to 30-year olds, many of whom were very scantily clad. After ordering our beer and finding nowhere to sit on either of the 2 floors one of our party suggested we stood outside to drink –
to avoid getting arrested for letching! I sampled a Grevensteineer Original Naturtrubes Landbier 5.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
The next port of call looked VERY interesting - Hinkelstein ,Markt 18, a stone-built former wine storage cellar (“Gewölbekeller” a vaulted cellar is a basement that has no flat ceiling, but is usually completed by a barrel vault.) They do 5 draft beers, 2 of which were guests. We got lucky here, wedging ourselves onto a table at the back of the vault, surrounded by “pretty young things”. It was quite difficult to get served – I know as it was my turn to go to the bar! I chose Fischers Stiftungsbrau Helles Volbier (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
We all enjoyed our drink here, shame to rush off but it was now 0030am and we’d promised to get back to the brewpub by 1am. On arrival back at the Elisabeth Braukeller the Landlord and couple of locals were pleased to see us. I started with a Kuhr Brau Helles 6.6% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd) as I thought this would be our last beer tonight. Of course not, we all carried on talking & it turned into a lock in, we then bought the Landlord a drink. Later he bought us a drink – I decided to have a small one instead of ½ a litre and got the micky taken for it. We walked into our room upstairs dead on 0300am!!
Saturday 11/08/18
The big day had arrived, thankfully no need to rush this morning as the railtour was departing from the nearby town of Treysa at 1336 this afternoon.
Elizabethkirche Church (taken from our hotel window)
We walked out at exactly 11am – I declared it was too late for breakfast so lets go for a drink !
The next port of call looked VERY interesting - Hinkelstein ,Markt 18, a stone-built former wine storage cellar (“Gewölbekeller” a vaulted cellar is a basement that has no flat ceiling, but is usually completed by a barrel vault.) They do 5 draft beers, 2 of which were guests. We got lucky here, wedging ourselves onto a table at the back of the vault, surrounded by “pretty young things”. It was quite difficult to get served – I know as it was my turn to go to the bar! I chose Fischers Stiftungsbrau Helles Volbier (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
Saturday 11/08/18
The big day had arrived, thankfully no need to rush this morning as the railtour was departing from the nearby town of Treysa at 1336 this afternoon.
We walked out at exactly 11am – I declared it was too late for breakfast so lets go for a drink !
Straight across the road to “Zur Locomotive – Gyros haus Alex” with handy outside seating and Fruh Kolsch 4.8% on draft in .2 litre glasses so we had a couple of glasses each to start the day.
A stroll to the station followed, we still had plenty of time so sat outside the Café Station, Bahnhof Strasse 29, I had a draft Kostitzer Schwarzbier 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd).
146 253 Marburg – Treysa 1121 Frankfurt – Kassel 42km
Lokschuppen-Treysa is a music venue and pub which occupies the former station building here, closed in the daytime but they have a biergarten open during the day next to the car park, very handy. We had a draft Binding Romer Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd).
146 253 Marburg – Treysa 1121 Frankfurt – Kassel 42km
Lokschuppen-Treysa is a music venue and pub which occupies the former station building here, closed in the daytime but they have a biergarten open during the day next to the car park, very handy. We had a draft Binding Romer Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd).
Time for the main event – diesel loco 212 372 rolled in on 4 coaches (including a bar/disco car!)
212 372 at Treysa prior to the start of the railtour
All in all it would be a near 5 hour run, I had asked for seats in the front coach, which we got, even better the front bays were unreserved, so we soon got the windows opened and moved in there directly behind the loco. We popped to the bar/disco car (the DJ was already playing some awful music – this would continue right thru to 0330 in the morning!) and we enquired if the bar sold draft beer?
All in all it would be a near 5 hour run, I had asked for seats in the front coach, which we got, even better the front bays were unreserved, so we soon got the windows opened and moved in there directly behind the loco. We popped to the bar/disco car (the DJ was already playing some awful music – this would continue right thru to 0330 in the morning!) and we enquired if the bar sold draft beer?
Of course! It was only Krombacher Pils 4.8% (which I rated 3.25 on UnTappd) but somethings better than nothing. The day was set fair, the loco was blue – let’s go!
The train was booked down the mainline picking up passengers at local stations on route, through Geissen to Butzbach (last pick up point) then the loco ran round it’s train to take the Geissen avoiding line towards Wetzlar.
212 372 running round at Butzbach
The organisers were a friendly bunch, they told us the front bay at the other end of the train was also unreserved, we moved all our gear to that end on arrival at Butzbach. No timings sheets or route details were forthcoming however, until I spotted the guard seemed to have some official paperwork with him. I popped onto the platform and asked if I could possibly photograph them – Of Course! He and another chap kindly held the sheets for me to photograph. Job done.
We set off again, rare track over the Geissen avoiding line, through Wetzlar and forward along the Lahn river valley. It’s always been a lovely run along the valley from Geissen via Limburg to Koblenz (117 kilometres), the route we now picked up. We were drinking then going back for more when needed, windows open and waving at the numerous people on boats or walking along the riverside who waved at us. Some beautiful scenery to boot.
We reached Limburg and presumed we would just roll through a platform – no, we went right over to the left of the platforms and went through what is almost certainly a freight only line – result!
The river valley really takes over from here all the way to Koblenz, winding round curves on the single line and passing the odd train at passing loops in stations – Bad Ems a particular favourite with its stylish overall roof. Seemingly all too soon we crossed the river heading into Koblenz itself, a fantastic run behind this veteran loco.
The Driver pulled the train right up to the far end of the platform we arrived on – spoiling the photo somewhat!
212 372 at journeys end, Koblenz
The train was booked down the mainline picking up passengers at local stations on route, through Geissen to Butzbach (last pick up point) then the loco ran round it’s train to take the Geissen avoiding line towards Wetzlar.
The organisers were a friendly bunch, they told us the front bay at the other end of the train was also unreserved, we moved all our gear to that end on arrival at Butzbach. No timings sheets or route details were forthcoming however, until I spotted the guard seemed to have some official paperwork with him. I popped onto the platform and asked if I could possibly photograph them – Of Course! He and another chap kindly held the sheets for me to photograph. Job done.
We reached Limburg and presumed we would just roll through a platform – no, we went right over to the left of the platforms and went through what is almost certainly a freight only line – result!
The river valley really takes over from here all the way to Koblenz, winding round curves on the single line and passing the odd train at passing loops in stations – Bad Ems a particular favourite with its stylish overall roof. Seemingly all too soon we crossed the river heading into Koblenz itself, a fantastic run behind this veteran loco.
The Driver pulled the train right up to the far end of the platform we arrived on – spoiling the photo somewhat!
212 372 Treysa - Koblenz 1336 Treysa - Koblenz 211km
(Via Butzbach (RR), Geissen Avoider & Limburg non Platform line)
We first had a celebratory drink at the Konigsbacher Treff over the road, again sampling the draft Andechser Doppelbock Dunkle 7%, at a much more sensible time of day!
My research had found 3 local breweries, 2 of which were quite near to each other being only a short hop on a train away.
Unit Koblenz – Oberlahnstein 1821 Neuweid – Frankfurt
We walked to the Lahnsteiner Brauerei, on this probably the busiest night of the year in Koblenz to find it “Ruhetag”. I’m sure no-one wants a drink on a Saturday evening…….. Resigned to our fate we found a sports bar within sight of the brewery gates, the Café Fiduzit where we had a Lahnsteiner Fursten-Pils 4.9% (which I rated 3.5 on UnTappd). Unperturbed (!) we caught a unit one stop to Niederlahnstein then walked the kilometre to Maximilians Brauwiesen, a nice level walk. It soon became apparent that not only was it open but was mobbed with literally thousands of people inside!
Maximilians is huge, several large rooms, an outside eating area, then grassy fields leading down to an outdoor barbeque and picnicking area and finally ending at the river. Even so, try as we might, we couldn’t find anywhere unreserved to have a meal & some beer!
We asked a couple if we could sit at their table, no problem just pull up an extra chair. Great!
You’d think that even an operation on this scale would still struggle due to the weight of numbers – but none of it. The barmaid soon spotted us and took our beer orders, she was soon back with the drinks and just as quickly took our food order. Top service!
I had an Maximilians Helles 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and a huge plate of Goulash with spaetzle. We were getting close to fireworks time, lots of Rhine cruise ships come up the river with the firework displays, following them until they reach Koblenz, where a further huge display awaits, it all comes to a close about midnight. I ordered a Maximilians Braunes 5.1% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
It was now time to get a bit nearer the river to watch the fireworks display, the local fire brigade was in charge of setting them off! The large Konigsbacher brewery, directly across the river from the Maximilian, has a rival firework display and both try to out-do the other. It made for a fantastic spectacle, we were only stood fifty yards from where our display was being set off.
Unit Niederlahnstein – Koblenz 2252 Niederlahnstein – Koblenz
We made a small mistake, heading towards the city centre where of course it was extremely busy, this was soon added to by the crowds heading back from the display on the river. In hindsight we should have just had a drink near the railway station, however we did get sat at a bar on a large square. The waitress was the opposite of the previous one – i.e. totally disorganised! After a long wait she brought us the wrong drinks, please try again. We eventually got a drink but didn’t have long in which to drink it. A stroll back to the station where, a first for us all, the return railtour wasn’t due to depart until 0052am Sunday!
Sunday 12/08
111 001 on the return train at Koblenz
The return service was in the hands of electric museum loco 111 001, there were two reasons for this 1) our outward route is closed on nights 2) this loco can go much quicker than 212 372!
We reclaimed our position in the front bay behind the loco, we were routed down the Rhine via Bacharach – a rare experience at this time of night. The beers were got in from the bar/disco car where the bad music DJ was in full flow, indeed the Fraulein’s were gathered awaiting dance partners. Two of us had the window down for the run down the river, for the first 20 minutes or so, when it became a bit cold for the other passengers we of course closed the window. Only a couple of minutes later we realised the toilet directly in front of us also had a window that opened halfway – so we could enjoy the views without annoying anyone. Bizarre! Selby State, however, had succumbed to a slumber, unable to drink any more beer.
I went back to the bar for another drink, I stood watching the dancers. Should I introduce myself to one of the ladies and dance? No, they’re too scary for me, not normally a problem when I’ve had this much to drink!
111 001 Koblenz – Marburg 0052 Koblenz – Marburg 200?km
(Via Bacharach, Hochheim, Frankfurt (Main) ladder & Hanau Nord)
Anyway, we were booked via some weird and wonderful freight only (non-passenger) lines so we needed to keep track of which lines we actually did, we did miss one out, then the best bit – we skirted right across the ladder in front of Frankfurt Hbf, from Sud to Ost, unheard of, then onwards via Mainkur & Hanau Nord picking up our outward route at Butzbach. Even I’d had my fill of beer by this point. We alighted at Marburg at the surreal time of 0330 Sunday am. A brisk walk saw us arrive at our room at 0400, an hour later than the previous night! Zzzzzzzz.
Kapur left us at the station in the morning, the other two of us had a bit more time.
Unit Marburg – Geissen 1105 Marburg – Geissen 30km
We walked to the Alt Geissen brewpub where the biergarten was very welcoming – not only that but we had some of the best beer of the whole trip. I started with their Helles 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
Beer list at the Alt Giessen
I asked about the Witbier 4.7%, I was told they try a different beer style each month to see how they do at it. Pretty good I’d say as I rated it 4.0 on UnTappd.
Unit Geissen – Frankfurt Hbf 66km
We said our goodbyes here, I was flying back from Frankfurt, Selby was having another week in Germany. Luckily he felt a lot better than he did at 0100 this morning!
101 137 Frankfurt – Frankfurt Airport 1344 F. – Hamburg Altona 12km
I had a bit of time so chose Kafers restaurant/bar where I had a draft Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). After a reasonable check in, I found the well above average (for an airport lounge) Meyer Deli Coffee Kitchen – I couldn’t believe it but they had Andechser Vollbier Hell on draft, it was available (I rated it 4.0 on UnTapped) and a decent seating area with plush sofa’s to boot. This is the life.
D-AECF F.Flughafen – London City Airport 1625 FF – L.City
Its thirsty work writing all this - Buy Me a Pint?
A decent Lufthansa flight followed by a Docklands train to Woolwich. I walked to Taproom SE18 where I tried Arbor Ales Shangri-La 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) not too fussed about the venue so I moved on. Next up was a train to London Bridge for a swift Caledonian Deuchars IPA 3.8% in the Shipwrights Arms, I was that quick the chap on the ticket barrier couldn’t believe I’d drank a pint in that time.
A Thameslink over to St.Pancras where I had time to visit the Scottish Stores, here I had a Three Sods brewery BoHo Bitter 4.1% (which I rated at 3.75 on UnTappd)
91107 Kings Crosss – Wakefield Westgate 1935 Kings Cross – Leeds 176m
Unit W.Kirkgate – Barnsley 2208 Leeds – Sheffield 11m
Conclusion:
A brilliant trip, everything worked out (other than a couple of un-open brewpubs on the day) followed by one of the best railtour’s the 3 of us have ever done, and we’ve done a huge number over the years.
I had an Maximilians Helles 4.8% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) and a huge plate of Goulash with spaetzle. We were getting close to fireworks time, lots of Rhine cruise ships come up the river with the firework displays, following them until they reach Koblenz, where a further huge display awaits, it all comes to a close about midnight. I ordered a Maximilians Braunes 5.1% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd).
It was now time to get a bit nearer the river to watch the fireworks display, the local fire brigade was in charge of setting them off! The large Konigsbacher brewery, directly across the river from the Maximilian, has a rival firework display and both try to out-do the other. It made for a fantastic spectacle, we were only stood fifty yards from where our display was being set off.
Unit Niederlahnstein – Koblenz 2252 Niederlahnstein – Koblenz
We made a small mistake, heading towards the city centre where of course it was extremely busy, this was soon added to by the crowds heading back from the display on the river. In hindsight we should have just had a drink near the railway station, however we did get sat at a bar on a large square. The waitress was the opposite of the previous one – i.e. totally disorganised! After a long wait she brought us the wrong drinks, please try again. We eventually got a drink but didn’t have long in which to drink it. A stroll back to the station where, a first for us all, the return railtour wasn’t due to depart until 0052am Sunday!
Sunday 12/08
The return service was in the hands of electric museum loco 111 001, there were two reasons for this 1) our outward route is closed on nights 2) this loco can go much quicker than 212 372!
We reclaimed our position in the front bay behind the loco, we were routed down the Rhine via Bacharach – a rare experience at this time of night. The beers were got in from the bar/disco car where the bad music DJ was in full flow, indeed the Fraulein’s were gathered awaiting dance partners. Two of us had the window down for the run down the river, for the first 20 minutes or so, when it became a bit cold for the other passengers we of course closed the window. Only a couple of minutes later we realised the toilet directly in front of us also had a window that opened halfway – so we could enjoy the views without annoying anyone. Bizarre! Selby State, however, had succumbed to a slumber, unable to drink any more beer.
I went back to the bar for another drink, I stood watching the dancers. Should I introduce myself to one of the ladies and dance? No, they’re too scary for me, not normally a problem when I’ve had this much to drink!
111 001 Koblenz – Marburg 0052 Koblenz – Marburg 200?km
(Via Bacharach, Hochheim, Frankfurt (Main) ladder & Hanau Nord)
Anyway, we were booked via some weird and wonderful freight only (non-passenger) lines so we needed to keep track of which lines we actually did, we did miss one out, then the best bit – we skirted right across the ladder in front of Frankfurt Hbf, from Sud to Ost, unheard of, then onwards via Mainkur & Hanau Nord picking up our outward route at Butzbach. Even I’d had my fill of beer by this point. We alighted at Marburg at the surreal time of 0330 Sunday am. A brisk walk saw us arrive at our room at 0400, an hour later than the previous night! Zzzzzzzz.
Kapur left us at the station in the morning, the other two of us had a bit more time.
Unit Marburg – Geissen 1105 Marburg – Geissen 30km
We walked to the Alt Geissen brewpub where the biergarten was very welcoming – not only that but we had some of the best beer of the whole trip. I started with their Helles 4.8% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd)
I asked about the Witbier 4.7%, I was told they try a different beer style each month to see how they do at it. Pretty good I’d say as I rated it 4.0 on UnTappd.
Unit Geissen – Frankfurt Hbf 66km
We said our goodbyes here, I was flying back from Frankfurt, Selby was having another week in Germany. Luckily he felt a lot better than he did at 0100 this morning!
101 137 Frankfurt – Frankfurt Airport 1344 F. – Hamburg Altona 12km
I had a bit of time so chose Kafers restaurant/bar where I had a draft Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated 4.0 on UnTappd). After a reasonable check in, I found the well above average (for an airport lounge) Meyer Deli Coffee Kitchen – I couldn’t believe it but they had Andechser Vollbier Hell on draft, it was available (I rated it 4.0 on UnTapped) and a decent seating area with plush sofa’s to boot. This is the life.
D-AECF F.Flughafen – London City Airport 1625 FF – L.City
Its thirsty work writing all this - Buy Me a Pint?
A decent Lufthansa flight followed by a Docklands train to Woolwich. I walked to Taproom SE18 where I tried Arbor Ales Shangri-La 4.2% (which I rated 3.75 on UnTappd) not too fussed about the venue so I moved on. Next up was a train to London Bridge for a swift Caledonian Deuchars IPA 3.8% in the Shipwrights Arms, I was that quick the chap on the ticket barrier couldn’t believe I’d drank a pint in that time.
A Thameslink over to St.Pancras where I had time to visit the Scottish Stores, here I had a Three Sods brewery BoHo Bitter 4.1% (which I rated at 3.75 on UnTappd)
91107 Kings Crosss – Wakefield Westgate 1935 Kings Cross – Leeds 176m
Unit W.Kirkgate – Barnsley 2208 Leeds – Sheffield 11m
Conclusion:
A brilliant trip, everything worked out (other than a couple of un-open brewpubs on the day) followed by one of the best railtour’s the 3 of us have ever done, and we’ve done a huge number over the years.
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