GERMANY & FRANCE 2018 (OR ESCAPE FROM STUTTGART!) 03/12/18 – 11/12/18
Monday 03/12/18 Down to the Smoke
Unit Barnsley – Sheffield 1238 Barnsley – Sheffield 16miles
Unit Sheffield – St.Pancras 1329 Sheffield – St.Pancras 165miles
After recent travel “blips” we decided not to risk the very early start Tuesday that would be required to make our booked Eurostar departure so travelled down today instead.
I booked accommodation in Travelodge Kings Cross (356-364 Grays Inn Road WC1X) at late notice so a Super Room cost £124. On arrival at the Hotel about 15:50 I was told that the room won’t be ready for another ten minutes; even though check in starts at 3pm.
My wife was not happy with this, however another member of staff told me the room previously ready for us had a lighting fault (flashing on & off) and rang the cleaners upstairs to get a room number, he then checked us in & gave us room cards so we could go up as soon as they got the nod our room was ready. He then wrote a Free Breakfast voucher for both of us as recompense. This helped appease my wife!
Into the room to ditch the cases and check out the facilities on offer “how do I work this shower in the morning” I was asked, no idea as I hadn’t been in the bathroom yet. Good room, better than previous encounters with Travelodge, though some of those had been on £19 offers (including Brighton) so were bargains anyway.
We once (in the summer of 2017) enjoyed an “alternative” style evening meal at Salon de Gourmandises Intuitions by Jerome de Oliveira, a top Patisserie in Cannes.
I had decided to try to do the same in London, as a surprise, so a bit of internet searching found Aux Pains de Papy (279 Gray’s Inn Road, WC1X 8EB) rated 3rd best in the City by both the Financial Times & Londonist sites. Just across the road from the hotel – but unfortunately it was raining so the seats outside couldn’t be used and the better half couldn’t use the barstool type seats inside (she famously never mastered riding a bicycle).
This meant a search for an alternative venue, I always favour the pub meal experience as it involves beer, and she would prefer not to involve a pub!
However the rain pushed things in my favour so when we came across The Harrison (28 Harrison Street WC1H 8JF) we gave it a go. I started with a pint of Mandarin Winter Ale 4.5% from Windsor & Eton brewery (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
I chose the home made Curry with rice, and for my wife, Ribeye Steak & hand cut chips (although she asked for fries instead as the chips were described as “chunky” by the bar staff). The food was quite good, I ordered a pint of Five Points XPA 4.0% from Five Points Brewing co (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd) to take the edge off the burn from my curry, a nice pint.
We strolled back to the hotel (the rain had passed) where she decided Emmerdale, Coronation Street and the like would be more to her taste than a crawl around the pubs of Bloomsbury which I had planned. I had looked up public houses in the area on the excellent “Whatpub” Camra website so off I set.
My first port of call was the Queen’s Head (66 Acton Street WC1X 9NB) a late Georgian side-street premises, just off the Gray’s Inn Road, which retains much of its Victorian character. I was surprised to find 2 beers from the Blue Bee brewery in Sheffield, very much in my normal drinking area. I decided on a pint of Blue Bee Quad Hop 4.0% (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd). The pub had a very good atmosphere, lots of conversation going on around various tables.
Then into Bloomsbury proper via a back street walk skirting around St.George’s Gardens & Brunswick Park Gardens to The Lamb (94 Lambs Conduit Street WC1N 3LZ) a Grade II listed Victorian pub on CAMRA’s Heritage pub list. Now run by Young’s with 8 Real Ales available, I tried Hiver The Honey Beer 4.5% from Hepworth & Co (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd) as I’d previously only tried this in bottle form.
The Lamb: I sat just to the right of the photo.
Just a couple of doors down the same street is The Perseverance (63 Lambs Conduit Street WC1N 3NB) where I was probably the oldest of their clientele, the pub quiz being about to start. Only 4 Real Ales but a very good mix so after a little thought I opted for White City 4.5% from Portobello Brewing Co (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd) so I think I chose well.
I then decided to try to find the Duke (7 Roger Street WC1N 2PB) an inter-war pub still retaining its 1930’s Art Deco features. I found it Ok; however I couldn’t find any bar staff for a good 5 minutes (including killing a bit of time by using the WC). Once served I had a pint of East India Pale Ale 4.1% by Whitstable brewery and very nice it was too (I rated it 4.0 on Untappd).
Not far to The Lady Ottoline (11a Northington Street WC1N 2JF) for a pint of Cwtch 4.6% from Tiny Rebel Brewing Co. It was unfortunately not on form, (I only rated it 3.0 on Untappd), also being rather warm. I didn’t complain (the Landlady was more interested in what seemed to be her new Segway?) so I left half a pint as I wanted to move on to other venues anyway.
My next port of call, now working my way back up Grays Inn road, was The Blue Lion (133 Grays Inn Road
WC1X 8TU) for a pint of Opening Gambit 3.8% from Reunion Ales which was very refreshing (I rated it 3.75 on Untappd).
I was a bit the worse for wear by this time, but I stopped once more, not wanting to miss the Lucas Arms which I had passed on my way to Bloomsbury earlier. Green King Abbot Ale 5.0% was the choice, I only rated it 3.25 on Untappd but by this time it could have been me not on good form – not the beer!
Finally the short walk back to the Travelodge, goodnight!
Tuesday 04/12/18 Breakfast in London, Lunch in Paris & Tea in Stuttgart
We got ready for the day ahead then came down to the breakfast room for our “freebie” breakfast. We both had coffee and toast, although there were other cold items available we didn’t fancy anything else.
We returned to the room to relax for a bit before making our way over the road to St.Pancras International , via a refreshing cup of tea in Chop’d opposite Eurostar check in, before going through the check in process ourselves. No queues or problems and plenty of room to sit as we were a little early. After a while I thought it would be a good idea to use the toilet before boarding – so of course the platform was announced just as I reached the WC.
The scrum to board was in full flow when I got back to my wife and the suitcases – why is it always bedlam to board when everyone has a seat reservation?
Eurostar St.Pancras – Paris Nord 1024 St.Pancras – Paris Nord 495km
Anyway no real difficulties so we were soon in our allocated seats. We had an enjoyable run through Gods own County of Kent, place of my birth, before descending into the Channel Tunnel. Yes I did try the “Eurostar Odyssey” online but only for a few minutes before continuing with my book.
On arrival at Paris Nord we walked along the concourse, where the Christmas decorations far outshone the attempts at St.Pancras, to L’Etoile du Nord by Thierry Marx where I had reserved a table (as recommended on the excellent “Man in Seat 61” train travel website). A short queue inside but once the reservation was shown we were ushered straight to our table.
We both opted for a Main and Dessert from the Plat du Jour, these being Hake with potatoes & assorted veg followed by spiced Pear with honeycomb. I had a bottle of Brugse Zot 6.0% by Brouwerj De Halve Maan (which I rated at 4.25 on Untappd).
The food was good and very well presented. We decided to reserve a table for our return journey the following week.
We walked down the Rue de Saint-Quentin, as a quieter alternative to the way we’ve walked other times, turning left at the bottom then past the covered Marche Saint-Quentin, over a pedestrian crossing then straight along to Paris Est station.
I topped up my Euro’s at a cashpoint before boarding our TGV for Stuttgart. I had booked a Super Advance (Super Sparpreis) through www.bahn.de (DB German railways), again as recommended by “Man in Seat 61”. You can travel huge distances from as little as 39 Euro, including 2 breaks on route of up to 48hours, and we had upgraded to 1st class throughout for 10 Euros each.
TGV Paris Est – Stuttgart 1543 Paris Est – Munich xxxkm
We sped through the French countryside in the fading light , I had a Leffe Blonde 6.6% from the buffet whilst looking out the window, then as darkness fell it was back to my book. All too soon we were through Strasbourg and into Germany, arriving at Karlsruhe, an old stamping ground of mine from the days of travelling behind 212 diesels on local trains and 218 diesels on the extremely scenic line through the hills and valleys of the Black Forest to Freudenstadt.
An on time arrival at 1904 into Stuttgart then the long walk to the concourse, past the huge hole they are digging to “move” the whole station underground. We were staying at the Inter City hotel on the station, this chain is still run by DB, the German state railway.
A quick check-in followed, my wife was very pleased to pick up two 6 inch, free chocolate Santa’s from reception in red & white “Ho Ho Hotel” foil.
We dropped the luggage off as quickly as possible as the 280 stalls of Stuttgart’s Weinachtsmarkt (Christmas market) were open until 2100. We walked up Konigstrasse, the main shopping street, to where the Christmas market starts on Schlossplatz.(see phot below)
Lovely illuminations and on a grand scale, lit up mock ups of Porche cars & elephants to name a couple, a huge trainset with toy trains running around and a proper track in amongst all that for kids to go round behind steam & diesel engines.
The stalls started in earnest so we pottered here and there, diverting around the large crowds drinking & eating around the Gluwein and food outlets, we prefer the stalls with a myriad of different themes and craft products.
We picked up some supper from a large area of stalls entitled “Street Food”, yes it’s catching on everywhere. We reached a point where we’d done enough walking and the stalls were beginning to close so we made of note of where to start again at 1000 in the morning.
We caught the “U” bahn back to the Hbf (main station) a bit strange that every exit tells you which street your heading for but none show which way the railway station is!
A bit of a lottery where you come out, especially trying to avoid steps as the wife has a stick and was tired after out long day.
I had done some research into Stuttgart brewpubs, using both Camra’s “Good Beer Guide Germany” and the follow up website www.german-breweries.com by Steve Thomas (a lifelong friend of mine). 5 locations looked worth a visit but no rush as we were staying over in Stuttgart another night later in the trip.
I decided to try to find the Ketterer pub (Pforzheim brewery) first as it’s not open on a Sunday, the night we would be back in Stuttgart again. I got the “U” bahn to Rathaus then wandered around but no joy finding the Ketterer, gave up as realised I was on the same street as Sophies Brauhaus (Marienstraße 28 70178 Stuttgart) where I appeared to be the invisible man, so difficult was it to get served! Finally someone took pity on me so I ordered ½ litres of 2 different beers – this in itself caused some confusion.
These were the Schwarzbier 5.2% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) a nice black beer and Weihnachtsbier 5.2% a Christmas special not as good (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
It had been a long day so I didn’t wait to be served again, just paid up and moved on.
A brisk walk up Sophienstrasse and down Calwer Strasse to Brauhaus Calwer-Eck (Calwer Strasse 31, 70173 Stuttgart) where service was excellent and even the off duty bar-staff were interested in my interest in their beers and beer drinking in general – very pleasant. I tried Braumeisterbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and then a Schwarzbier 5.5% (very good so I rated it 4.25 on Untappd).
The clock was just before midnight so not wanting to lose my glass slipper I scurried to the nearby S bahn which I took to the Hbf and bed.
Wednesday 05/12/18 Five months of planning and still it goes wrong
I was up with the Larks with the aim of covering a few Class 111 electric loco diagrams, my other hobby being trains.
111080 Stuttgart Hbf – Bad Canstatt 0550 Stuttgart – Aalen 3km
111025 Bad Canstatt – Plochingen 0601 Stuttgart – Sussen 20km
111021 Plochingen – Bad Canstatt 0551 Tubingen – Stuttgart 20km
111137 Bad Canstatt – Plochingen 0652 Stuttgart - Tubingen 20km
111029 Plochingen – Esslingen 0637 Tubingen - Stuttgart
111049 Esslingen – Plochingen 0722 Stuttgart - Tubingen
111079 Plochingen – Bad Canstatt 0702 Tubingen – Stuttgart
S Bahn Bad Cantstatt – Suttgart Hbf 3km
The first 5 locos (highlighted in bold) were required for haulage, I got off at Bad Canstatt on my way back as I was running early, I hoped to pick another loco back into Stuttgart but there was nothing else about.
I took coffee & croissant back to the room for Colleen’s breakfast, time for a shower and shave for me.
The Christmas market here has a very sociable 10am opening so took the U Bahn to Charlottenplatz, roughly where we had got to the night before. First up was an Antique indoor market on Karlsplatz where we found many tree decorations from yesteryear, some of which we recognised from our parents & Grandparents trees.
Then a short walk to Markplatz, full of row after row of stalls. The Kirchengemeinde S. Mitte Stiftskirche (Grand Chuch) overlooking the square was playing Christmas carol tunes on its arrangement of ancient bells, very nice.
On one of the stalls we found some very cute hand sewn Xmas Rats, we didn’t buy one but later on decided we would, if possible, when back in Stuttgart on Sunday.
We went into the very well to do Merz & Benzing department store and up to Karl’s Kitchen (probably so named as it looks out over Karlsplatz) on the top floor.
She had an Earl Grey tea, I thought I’d try ½ litre of draft Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0 (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) a nice version of the style. We had a nice leisurely break.
We ventured back out to look round the remaining stalls, we had run out of steam a bit as 280 stalls is one BIG Xmas market.
Something worth a special mention at Stuttgart Xmas market is the great efforts the stallholders put in to make the roofs of the wooden huts as Christmassy as the contents of the stalls themselves, something neither of us could recollect seeing before. We assume there must be a prize for the best design, with so much effort having been put in by so many? It gives an extra dimension to the market, you’ve got to remember to step back and look up occasionally though!
We only omitted to look around about half a dozen stalls before heading for some lunch in Backerei Konditorie Café Nast, a nice bakers shop & café just off the Marktplatz. I had Goulash soup with french stick; she had a Salami & cheese roll followed by an Apple Strudel with ice cream. I washed mine down with another Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) so it’s obviously as good from the bottle as on draught.
We returned to the Hbf on the U bahn and returned to the hotel to collect our cases from the luggage storage room before going to the platform for our 14:58 IC train to Kempten (Allgau) our base for the next 3 days.
This is where things went wrong, we had reserved seats in 1st class but the train was 180minutes late. No problem according to the DB website as an Ersatzzug (additional train to replace the late running train) was shown running to Kempten instead.
This then changed to a different additional train, still departing at 1458. However by 1500, with no train in the platform, nothing was now running and the website showed “alternative service ICE to Ulm for local train to Kempten” meaning a frantic change of platforms and search for a seat as we didn’t have much notice. The on-train staff soon found us 2 seats together, the only downside being the man sat directly behind us seemed to be conducting a business conference he was on his phone for most of the journey!
To compensate for all the upheaval I got a bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) from the on-train buffet, in the proper glass of course.
The local train from Ulm to Kempten was ok, at least it had a small 1st class section and we arrived into Kempten only 45 minutes later than planned.
ICE Stuttgart Hbf – Ulm Hbf 0928 Berlin Hbf – Munich Hbf
Unit Ulm Hbf – Kempten (Allgau) 1620 Ulm Hbf – Kempten Hbf
We made our way out of the station to the taxi rank, lugging 2 suitcases & my wife with a stick, just the one taxi but the driver saw us coming, he was just undoing his seatbelt to get out and open the boot when a bloke ran past me, jumped in the passenger seat and nicked it !
This act of kindness wasn’t appreciated by the “already late and would like to get to the hotel” twosome now without a taxi. Stood there for about 10 minutes then gave up and got the next bus into the town centre, we didn’t have any problems working out where to get off to walk to the hotel but we would rather not have needed to!
We had booked 3 nights at the Allgau Art Hotel (Alpenstrasse 9 · 87435 Kempten) in Kempten (Allgau), recently built and as the name suggests very smart with some nice design touches. Huge glass sliding doors on the bathroom walk in shower, backlighting behind the bed and with a very smart foyer and Restaurant.
Foyer in the Kempten Art Hotel
As this our first chance of the trip to unpack the suitcases properly we tackled this task first, not really enough hangers in the wardrobe of course, followed by a little breather. No need to venture far for a meal with the Restaurant downstairs in full swing – we were given a nice table for two near the picture windows to the back of the room.
I decided to go for the local speciality of “Zwiebelrostbraten vom Allgäuer Weiderind” (fried beef and onions in gravy with red-wine-sauce, fried onions and cheese spaetzle) for 19.80 Euro. My wife picked Schnitzel “Wiener Art” (bread-crumbed and fried pork scallop with french fries and cranberry sauce) for 9.90 Euro.
I drank a couple of ½ litres of draft Erdinger Weissbier with the meal. We both decided the food wasn’t as good a we’d thought it would be.
It was now about 2030 so after a brief return to the room I headed out to try to find some pubs, though I soon realised this was a bit hopeful. Everywhere I tried was either a high end food type pub or closed!
After a fair wander I did go for a beer in Zum Stift, (Stiftsplatz 1 · 87439 Kempten) the Allgauer Brewery Tap (although the brewery relocated out of the town some years ago) where, perhaps unsurprisingly, the breweries full range of beers was available either on draft or in bottle form. I had a draft Allgauer Buble Bier Urbayrisch Dunkel 5.3% , which was easier to drink than pronounce (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd), followed by a draft Furstabt Hefeweizen 5% a good example of its style (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
Foolishly I headed out after this (Zum Stift still too foody for my tastes) to look for a couple of other pubs my research had thrown up, however one was in darkness and I couldn’t find the second for quite a while so headed back towards our hotel.
I had caught a bus into the town centre from near our hotel but they had stopped running by this time, whilst walking back I saw a lit sign down a side street and decided it might just be a pub. On closer inspection it was “Chaplin” (Poststrasse 23 · 87439 Kempten) a proper “boozer” in my vocabulary or “dive” if my wife was present. I intimated towards the draft beer pumps to the barmaid so thought I knew what I was getting – however what I got was Allgauer Yrtyp Export lager 5.3%! Even after 30 years of visiting Germany for beer I can still get poured the wrong drink! At least it was a lot better than I thought it would be. After this I retired to the hotel.
Thursday 06/12/18 Five months of planning and I get it wrong
I fully intended to get up early to go to the railway station to travel behind some 218 diesel locos but didn’t sleep well, first night in a different bed etc. I was awake at 2am so decided to turn off my alarm which was set for 0515 in an attempt to catch up on some sleep.
We went down for breakfast (included in the room booking) in the restaurant. The breakfast was good, hot bacon and scrambled eggs, a wide selection of cold meats and cheeses, local yoghurts and mixed fruit and finally plenty of different loaves and bread rolls.
The best thing though was the modern automated coffee machine serving the best cappuccino we have ever had with a German breakfast. Not difficult as it’s the first time we’ve had cappuccino with one, over the years it’s always been the strong percolated coffee neither of us like. This enabled me to make a weaker version for my wife and a normal one for me, making breakfast a very pleasant affair all round.
There were some nice Christmas decorations both on the tables and around the room.
We walked into the main shopping area which starts just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel at the Allgauer Forum, a big modern shopping centre. We left this for another day walking down the hill onto the main high street.
We window shopped down Bahnhofstrasse then continued across the road to Fischerstrasse, this being the start of the pedestrianised town centre, with mainly smaller, quirkier shops. We went into a very interesting stationers with all sorts of stock that opened out inside to tardis like proportions, some very nice items – we had a good wander around. We then picked up a few items from the Yves Rocher store, including a Christmas present for our cleaner, Andrea.
After this a refreshment stop became urgently required, “there’s never a decent café when you want one”, apparently, until we came to the Centro Café Bar (Fischerstrasse 26 · 87435 Kempten) where not only was Earl Grey tea available but also a toilet. Good news all round.
I ordered an Earl Grey (for her) and a bottle of Allgauer Furstabt Hefeweizen 5.0 (for me). I rated the beer as 4.00 on Untappd, so obviously as good from a bottle as on draft the night before.
After a nice little breather we carried on down the pedestrianised streets, mainly window shopping, slowly winding our way down towards the main church which has the square housing Kempten’s Christmas market. “The biggest Xmas market in the Allgau” was in fact quite small!
Not disheartened by this we looked around and it’s here we made our main purchase of the trip, from a stall selling handmade metal Christmas iron wear, ours being a 2ft tall, flame effect cut out, large candle holder. It was definitely a stall with a difference and unlike any we saw at the other Xmas markets we visited on our trip.
Just the problem of how to get it through the Eurostar X-ray machines at Paris Nord on the way home then…..
We only wanted a light lunch but there was nothing suitable near the market, I spotted that the No6 bus would take us back up to the Forum shopping centre, we hadn’t been for a look around it yet but figured there would be some food outlets inside.
A helpful local told me (in German) to buy a family ticket, this proved good value at 4.40 Euro and valid all day for us both. Two singles to the Forum would have cost 3.20 Euro and we would be using the bus again later to get to the railway station.
We found the Forum to be quite pleasant, not too big or overpowering as some shopping centres can be. The first few fast food outlets, including McDonald’s, were very busy as school days end somewhat earlier in these parts than at home. We then came across Nordsee, a big chain specialising in seafood where good old Fish & Chips (sort of) was available. No fried potatoes ready at the time so we both had Sole with boiled potatoes, peas and Tartar sauce. Colleen tried a Blueberry inspired fruit drink she’d never had before, I had a bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd). Although just a cheap fast food meal we probably enjoyed it more than the upmarket meal in the hotel restaurant the night before.
We decided we had time to explore the stores on the ground floor before going back to the hotel to get ready for our trip out to Kaufering & Fussen Christmas markets.
A bus to the station followed by:
ER20-001) Kempten (Allgau) – Kaufbeuren 1358 Lindau – Munich 43km
223071 ) (Top & Tail both powering)
The idea here was to visit the Christmas market for about an hour then catch a train down the branch line to Fussen, the nearest town to the famous Neuschwanstein Castle, for the first night of Fussen’s Xmas market.
Unfortunately Colleen wasn’t up to the 700metre walk from Kaufering railway station to the town centre so I asked which bus stop is for the town centre but after 20 minutes nothing had turned up so it became a pointless exercise (we had also arrived over 15 minutes late off the train) this wasn’t going to be a highlight of our trip so we retired to the station buffet (Bahnhofskiosk) where it was warm and refreshments were available. I had planned to re-visit Kaufbeuren the following day (on our way back from Augsburg) so we would make do with that instead.
Saddened as we were by the turn of events I relaxed over a quick couple of bottles of Augustiner Lagerbier Hell 5.2%, again served in the proper glass and a personal favourite of mine (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) whilst we waited.
218 424 Kaufbeuren – Fussen 1551 Munich – Fussen 43km
These loco hauled services were set to finish just two days later so this was my last chance to travel over the route before the unit invasion at the weekend, this being part of the reason for the whole trip.
We walked out of Fussen station to find the town to have some of the nicest Christmas illuminations we’ve ever seen, simple but elegant designs with a host of real Xmas trees up and down the streets all twinkling away.
We found the main pedestrianised street and made our way towards the square which hosts the Xmas market here. Empty! Yes I’d got it wrong – it starts on Friday 9th i.e. tomorrow.
While I was planning the trip I now remember checking the dates so I’d pencilled it in to do all this on the Friday; however at some point I thought the late finish Friday and early start Saturday would be too much for Colleen. So I changed the order around to give a more reasonable finish on the Friday, obviously forgetting the raison d'être for my original plan. Doh!
All was not lost as we now had time to find somewhere for a long dinner stop. We ended up at Zum Franziskaner (Kemptner Strasse 1 · 87629 Füssen). The somewhat disgruntled better half was looking through the menu when I admitted to my error over the dates; this cleared the air so we could enjoy the meal.
I had expected to find Franziskaner brewery beers here (going by the name!) but this was not the case. Instead they had Paulaner beers on tap so I started with ½ litre of Paulaner Original Munich Hell 4.9% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
We ordered our food, a large bowl of pork Goulash for me and Spätzle with fried onions for Colleen. The Goulash was great, I also ended up eating about half of her meal as she wasn’t too keen on it, so she ordered a Strudel to follow which was the nicest of the whole trip so that made up for not enjoying her main meal.
I enjoyed the first Munich Hell so had another, followed by a ½ litre of Paulaner Weissbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) as we had plenty of time to while away due to my error. On enquiring over the bill I was informed that the establishment was cash only, so I got directions to the nearest cashpoint to get some more Euro’s – it was a good job we still had plenty of time then!
A stroll back to the station for the 2033 back down the branch line to Biessenhofen, however the driver didn’t seem to be in any rush so we were about 7 minutes late by Marktobersdorf, the only other sizeable town on the line.
I had a word with the Guard as our booked connection forward to Kempten only gave us 4 minutes to change trains she said it would be Ok. As we arrived into Biessenhofen our onward train also arrived – right across the far side of the four platform station. I realised our only hope of avoiding a near 2 hour wait here (in the middle of nowhere) for the next train was to leave Colleen to make her own way through the subway and for me to leg it !
I got to the rear sliding door of the train, opened it, and then kept one leg in the door and one on the platform until she arrived. It was yet again too close for comfort and left her completely knackered, good job we had 20 minutes or on the train to recover.
218415 Fussen - Biessenhofen 2033 Fussen - Kaufering 40km
Unit Biessenhofen – Kempten (Allgau) 2043 Augsburg – Kempten 40km
We had learnt from our previous attempt to catch a taxi from Kempten station – we made sure no-one nicked our taxi to the hotel this time!
Friday 07/12/18 A very good “Bashing” day on the trains for me
After failing to get up early the previous day to indulge in my other hobby of “Bashing” trains, in which I have been involved for the past 40 years, travelling behind as many different locomotives as possible and also over as many different routes as possible.
It is a hobby that has taken me the length & breath of Britain ,Germany & Austria with many forays into France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Poland, the former Yugoslavia then more recently Slovenia & Croatia, with a special mention to Greece, especially the metre gauge Peloponnese routes south of Athens.
Up before the larks at 0500 I managed to get dressed and out of the room without overly disturbing Colleen. 12 minute walk to the station as too early for the bus.
I was hoping for a class 218 diesel on the 0546 departure, the train is booked to be a newer class 245 diesel (which are as dull as dishwater) but recent reports had shown the train to be getting a class 218 quite regularly.
It soon became apparent that I was in luck with 218 497 bringing the train in from the sidings. Kempten is the main train Depot in this part of Bavaria, another reason I decided to stay here, as well as the fact that in all my visits since August 1989 I had never actually been outside the station!
218497 Kempten – Kaufering 0546 Kempten – Munich 51km
Unit Kaufering – Turkheim 0622 Munich – Memmingen xxxkm
218420 Turkheim – Buchloe 0655 Memmingen – Munich 8km
218423) Buchloe – Kempten (Allgau) 0714 Munich – Zurich 63km
218403)
The EC (Eurocity) train from Munich to Zurich is booked a pair of 218’s from the depot at Muhldorf (a town about 60miles to the east of Munich) and I had my fingers crossed as it arrived, only needing one loco based at the depot, this being 218403! Result, it’s only taken me 29 years to clear the depots locos. The engine hadn’t been reported as working these services for quite a while so I was very pleased.
I was also impressed to see 218429 on another service at Buchloe, my last Kempten based loco which by diagram meant it would be working one of the trains we would be on later in the day. It seemed too good to be true, let’s see what happens later!
The run back to Kempten was in daylight, the fantastic countryside with the snow-capped mountains off to the left as a backdrop reminding me of the many times I’ve travelled around here over the years behind a myriad of 218 locos.
218423 & 218403 depart Kempten on EC196 to Zurich
I walked back to the hotel then up to the room to shower before breakfast, we sat at a different table this morning, and the Cappuccino’s went down well after my very early start.
We had pencilled in having a look round C&A’s this morning, a chain sorely missed back home. Good quality clothes with decent prices, our two grandkids have benefitted from our visits to their stores over the years. We picked up a couple of things for them and Colleen almost got a new coat, it wasn’t quite right after trying it on a few times.
We caught a bus from the bus station, again buying a Family ticket, then our IC (Intercity) train to the city of Augsburg, our main Christmas market destination today.
218435 Kempten – Augsburg 0941 Oberstdorf – Augsburg 103km
Once again DB had let the side down, the First class coach had been detached as defective, and this meant no drinks or refreshments on board, as the Buffet occupies half of the 1st class coach!
This wouldn’t do at all; I could do with a beer to sip while watching the Bavarian scenery rolling past the window. We were sat in the front coach behind the loco (as always) so I could hear the engine performing and as it had been empty on arrival at Kempten. A group of 8 or so football fans had also joined at Kempten, they had two crates of beer with them, and I approached them to see if I could buy a bottle off them – I got a beer no problem, but they wouldn’t take any cash for it. C’est la vie.
Meckatzer Weiss-Gold 5.2% (which I rated at 3.25 on Untappd) pretty euro-fizzy but I was a Beggar so couldn’t be a chooser!
On arrival at Augsburg Hbf the place was a building site (which I’d been warned about online) we followed signs for the lift but there wasn’t one - it must have been removed! More steps down to the subway and out the other side; then we weren’t sure where to catch the tram from, again the building works getting in the way.
It may have helped if I’d ever been outside Augsburg station but it was another of those places I’ve travelled from many times but never left the station, such is my hobby. Too many trains and too little time!
We took Tram line 3 to Konigsplatz for line 2 to Rathausplatz which houses Augsburger Christkindlesmarkt. We perused up and down the first two rows of stalls in the square then decided we needed a cuppa and a sit down, so headed away from the square slightly along Bahnhofstrasse until we found Café Dichtl, a lovely patisserie and chocolatier with a cosy seating and dining room. We had a cappuccino and a pot of Earl Grey tea to accompany a scrumptious cake each, the best cakes of the whole trip.
After using the rest rooms we paid up and gave our table to a waiting couple, it had become very busy since we’d arrived. We got back to the Xmas market and carried on from where we’d got to previously.
No rooftop decorations to the wooden stalls here, unlike in Stuttgart, though we had noticed some of the stalls in Kempten had been decorated in this way.
We purchased a few snowflake decorations (to replace some well-worn ones at home) and almost made a bigger purchase at another stall but were just put off by the price. The main reason we hadn’t been on a Christmas market trip like this for a few years being that they have tended to price themselves too high these days (compared to what you can get back home).
Although the market’s website showed streets going off from the main square with further stalls on, these in reality were very few and far between. I suggested going to a brewpub then looking round these other streets, or instead leaving Augsburg 2 hours earlier than planned and perhaps stopping off to look round Kaufbeuren Xmas market which we had failed to get to the day before.
Colleen decided on the latter option, still feeling the effects of the previous days exertions. So we again took the tram back to the main station where we walked along platform 1 until we came to the 1516 Brewpub which occupies part of the main station building. Here I sampled a guest beer, Fuldabrucker Landbrauerei “Schnelles Helles” 4.8% (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd) a decent “waiting room” in which to avoid the shambles caused by all the building work.
As we’d failed miserably to find the lifts on our arrival we decided to try the other subway at the north end of the platforms, this turned out to be using the tunnels I suspect the post office would have used previously, a very long walk and again with no disabled access from the station itself so steps involved again (although a wheelchair user could get dropped off by car if anyone knew which side street to use!). It then became apparent our train would be leaving from the very south end of the platform (thanks…) and due to the lack of access everyone was stood in the same part of the platform, near the other subway.
Another mad scramble to join the train, glad we hadn’t waited for the “rush hour” train we’d originally planned on. The expected traction on this train, 218429, which I’d seen earlier in the day at Buchloe, had mysteriously tuned into 218414! Oh dear, that’s a bit disappointing. At least there was an outside chance of picking up 429 on a train later, with a little luck?
By the time we were approaching Buchloe, where this time we needed to change trains, Colleen had decided not to bother with Kaufbeuren Xmas market, she was worn out – we’d go back to the hotel for a break, then look round the other 2 floors in the Forum shopping centre back in Kempten.
We had a booked cross platform, no hassle connection here (for a change), once on the other train I thought I would walk through to check the loco number but there was no chance of this due to a large group of Japanese all trying to get their luggage stowed away! At least they’d get to see Fussen Xmas market, unlike us last night.
We were only on this train as far as Kaufbeuren so a quick walk down the platform to view the loco number – Yes! It’s 218429 at last. Kempten and Muhldorf depot’s cleared on the same day, I texted a couple of friends to let them know my good fortune and they couldn’t believe my luck either!
The train forward from here to Kempten was from the same platform, saving Colleens legs a little this time. Back in Kempten the bus was most welcome back to the hotel.
218414 Augsburg – Buchloe 1415 Augsburg – Buchloe 40km
218429 Buchloe – Kaufbeuren 1352 Munich – Fussen 12km
Unit Kaufbeuren – Kempten 1430 Augsburg – Lindau 43km
Unit Barnsley – Sheffield 1238 Barnsley – Sheffield 16miles
Unit Sheffield – St.Pancras 1329 Sheffield – St.Pancras 165miles
After recent travel “blips” we decided not to risk the very early start Tuesday that would be required to make our booked Eurostar departure so travelled down today instead.
I booked accommodation in Travelodge Kings Cross (356-364 Grays Inn Road WC1X) at late notice so a Super Room cost £124. On arrival at the Hotel about 15:50 I was told that the room won’t be ready for another ten minutes; even though check in starts at 3pm.
My wife was not happy with this, however another member of staff told me the room previously ready for us had a lighting fault (flashing on & off) and rang the cleaners upstairs to get a room number, he then checked us in & gave us room cards so we could go up as soon as they got the nod our room was ready. He then wrote a Free Breakfast voucher for both of us as recompense. This helped appease my wife!
Into the room to ditch the cases and check out the facilities on offer “how do I work this shower in the morning” I was asked, no idea as I hadn’t been in the bathroom yet. Good room, better than previous encounters with Travelodge, though some of those had been on £19 offers (including Brighton) so were bargains anyway.
We once (in the summer of 2017) enjoyed an “alternative” style evening meal at Salon de Gourmandises Intuitions by Jerome de Oliveira, a top Patisserie in Cannes.
I had decided to try to do the same in London, as a surprise, so a bit of internet searching found Aux Pains de Papy (279 Gray’s Inn Road, WC1X 8EB) rated 3rd best in the City by both the Financial Times & Londonist sites. Just across the road from the hotel – but unfortunately it was raining so the seats outside couldn’t be used and the better half couldn’t use the barstool type seats inside (she famously never mastered riding a bicycle).
This meant a search for an alternative venue, I always favour the pub meal experience as it involves beer, and she would prefer not to involve a pub!
However the rain pushed things in my favour so when we came across The Harrison (28 Harrison Street WC1H 8JF) we gave it a go. I started with a pint of Mandarin Winter Ale 4.5% from Windsor & Eton brewery (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
I chose the home made Curry with rice, and for my wife, Ribeye Steak & hand cut chips (although she asked for fries instead as the chips were described as “chunky” by the bar staff). The food was quite good, I ordered a pint of Five Points XPA 4.0% from Five Points Brewing co (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd) to take the edge off the burn from my curry, a nice pint.
We strolled back to the hotel (the rain had passed) where she decided Emmerdale, Coronation Street and the like would be more to her taste than a crawl around the pubs of Bloomsbury which I had planned. I had looked up public houses in the area on the excellent “Whatpub” Camra website so off I set.
My first port of call was the Queen’s Head (66 Acton Street WC1X 9NB) a late Georgian side-street premises, just off the Gray’s Inn Road, which retains much of its Victorian character. I was surprised to find 2 beers from the Blue Bee brewery in Sheffield, very much in my normal drinking area. I decided on a pint of Blue Bee Quad Hop 4.0% (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd). The pub had a very good atmosphere, lots of conversation going on around various tables.
Then into Bloomsbury proper via a back street walk skirting around St.George’s Gardens & Brunswick Park Gardens to The Lamb (94 Lambs Conduit Street WC1N 3LZ) a Grade II listed Victorian pub on CAMRA’s Heritage pub list. Now run by Young’s with 8 Real Ales available, I tried Hiver The Honey Beer 4.5% from Hepworth & Co (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd) as I’d previously only tried this in bottle form.
Just a couple of doors down the same street is The Perseverance (63 Lambs Conduit Street WC1N 3NB) where I was probably the oldest of their clientele, the pub quiz being about to start. Only 4 Real Ales but a very good mix so after a little thought I opted for White City 4.5% from Portobello Brewing Co (which I rated at 4.0 on Untappd) so I think I chose well.
I then decided to try to find the Duke (7 Roger Street WC1N 2PB) an inter-war pub still retaining its 1930’s Art Deco features. I found it Ok; however I couldn’t find any bar staff for a good 5 minutes (including killing a bit of time by using the WC). Once served I had a pint of East India Pale Ale 4.1% by Whitstable brewery and very nice it was too (I rated it 4.0 on Untappd).
Not far to The Lady Ottoline (11a Northington Street WC1N 2JF) for a pint of Cwtch 4.6% from Tiny Rebel Brewing Co. It was unfortunately not on form, (I only rated it 3.0 on Untappd), also being rather warm. I didn’t complain (the Landlady was more interested in what seemed to be her new Segway?) so I left half a pint as I wanted to move on to other venues anyway.
My next port of call, now working my way back up Grays Inn road, was The Blue Lion (133 Grays Inn Road
WC1X 8TU) for a pint of Opening Gambit 3.8% from Reunion Ales which was very refreshing (I rated it 3.75 on Untappd).
I was a bit the worse for wear by this time, but I stopped once more, not wanting to miss the Lucas Arms which I had passed on my way to Bloomsbury earlier. Green King Abbot Ale 5.0% was the choice, I only rated it 3.25 on Untappd but by this time it could have been me not on good form – not the beer!
Finally the short walk back to the Travelodge, goodnight!
Tuesday 04/12/18 Breakfast in London, Lunch in Paris & Tea in Stuttgart
We got ready for the day ahead then came down to the breakfast room for our “freebie” breakfast. We both had coffee and toast, although there were other cold items available we didn’t fancy anything else.
We returned to the room to relax for a bit before making our way over the road to St.Pancras International , via a refreshing cup of tea in Chop’d opposite Eurostar check in, before going through the check in process ourselves. No queues or problems and plenty of room to sit as we were a little early. After a while I thought it would be a good idea to use the toilet before boarding – so of course the platform was announced just as I reached the WC.
The scrum to board was in full flow when I got back to my wife and the suitcases – why is it always bedlam to board when everyone has a seat reservation?
Eurostar St.Pancras – Paris Nord 1024 St.Pancras – Paris Nord 495km
Anyway no real difficulties so we were soon in our allocated seats. We had an enjoyable run through Gods own County of Kent, place of my birth, before descending into the Channel Tunnel. Yes I did try the “Eurostar Odyssey” online but only for a few minutes before continuing with my book.
On arrival at Paris Nord we walked along the concourse, where the Christmas decorations far outshone the attempts at St.Pancras, to L’Etoile du Nord by Thierry Marx where I had reserved a table (as recommended on the excellent “Man in Seat 61” train travel website). A short queue inside but once the reservation was shown we were ushered straight to our table.
We both opted for a Main and Dessert from the Plat du Jour, these being Hake with potatoes & assorted veg followed by spiced Pear with honeycomb. I had a bottle of Brugse Zot 6.0% by Brouwerj De Halve Maan (which I rated at 4.25 on Untappd).
The food was good and very well presented. We decided to reserve a table for our return journey the following week.
We walked down the Rue de Saint-Quentin, as a quieter alternative to the way we’ve walked other times, turning left at the bottom then past the covered Marche Saint-Quentin, over a pedestrian crossing then straight along to Paris Est station.
I topped up my Euro’s at a cashpoint before boarding our TGV for Stuttgart. I had booked a Super Advance (Super Sparpreis) through www.bahn.de (DB German railways), again as recommended by “Man in Seat 61”. You can travel huge distances from as little as 39 Euro, including 2 breaks on route of up to 48hours, and we had upgraded to 1st class throughout for 10 Euros each.
TGV Paris Est – Stuttgart 1543 Paris Est – Munich xxxkm
We sped through the French countryside in the fading light , I had a Leffe Blonde 6.6% from the buffet whilst looking out the window, then as darkness fell it was back to my book. All too soon we were through Strasbourg and into Germany, arriving at Karlsruhe, an old stamping ground of mine from the days of travelling behind 212 diesels on local trains and 218 diesels on the extremely scenic line through the hills and valleys of the Black Forest to Freudenstadt.
An on time arrival at 1904 into Stuttgart then the long walk to the concourse, past the huge hole they are digging to “move” the whole station underground. We were staying at the Inter City hotel on the station, this chain is still run by DB, the German state railway.
A quick check-in followed, my wife was very pleased to pick up two 6 inch, free chocolate Santa’s from reception in red & white “Ho Ho Hotel” foil.
We dropped the luggage off as quickly as possible as the 280 stalls of Stuttgart’s Weinachtsmarkt (Christmas market) were open until 2100. We walked up Konigstrasse, the main shopping street, to where the Christmas market starts on Schlossplatz.(see phot below)
The stalls started in earnest so we pottered here and there, diverting around the large crowds drinking & eating around the Gluwein and food outlets, we prefer the stalls with a myriad of different themes and craft products.
We picked up some supper from a large area of stalls entitled “Street Food”, yes it’s catching on everywhere. We reached a point where we’d done enough walking and the stalls were beginning to close so we made of note of where to start again at 1000 in the morning.
We caught the “U” bahn back to the Hbf (main station) a bit strange that every exit tells you which street your heading for but none show which way the railway station is!
A bit of a lottery where you come out, especially trying to avoid steps as the wife has a stick and was tired after out long day.
I had done some research into Stuttgart brewpubs, using both Camra’s “Good Beer Guide Germany” and the follow up website www.german-breweries.com by Steve Thomas (a lifelong friend of mine). 5 locations looked worth a visit but no rush as we were staying over in Stuttgart another night later in the trip.
I decided to try to find the Ketterer pub (Pforzheim brewery) first as it’s not open on a Sunday, the night we would be back in Stuttgart again. I got the “U” bahn to Rathaus then wandered around but no joy finding the Ketterer, gave up as realised I was on the same street as Sophies Brauhaus (Marienstraße 28 70178 Stuttgart) where I appeared to be the invisible man, so difficult was it to get served! Finally someone took pity on me so I ordered ½ litres of 2 different beers – this in itself caused some confusion.
These were the Schwarzbier 5.2% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) a nice black beer and Weihnachtsbier 5.2% a Christmas special not as good (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
It had been a long day so I didn’t wait to be served again, just paid up and moved on.
A brisk walk up Sophienstrasse and down Calwer Strasse to Brauhaus Calwer-Eck (Calwer Strasse 31, 70173 Stuttgart) where service was excellent and even the off duty bar-staff were interested in my interest in their beers and beer drinking in general – very pleasant. I tried Braumeisterbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and then a Schwarzbier 5.5% (very good so I rated it 4.25 on Untappd).
The clock was just before midnight so not wanting to lose my glass slipper I scurried to the nearby S bahn which I took to the Hbf and bed.
Wednesday 05/12/18 Five months of planning and still it goes wrong
I was up with the Larks with the aim of covering a few Class 111 electric loco diagrams, my other hobby being trains.
111080 Stuttgart Hbf – Bad Canstatt 0550 Stuttgart – Aalen 3km
111025 Bad Canstatt – Plochingen 0601 Stuttgart – Sussen 20km
111021 Plochingen – Bad Canstatt 0551 Tubingen – Stuttgart 20km
111137 Bad Canstatt – Plochingen 0652 Stuttgart - Tubingen 20km
111029 Plochingen – Esslingen 0637 Tubingen - Stuttgart
111049 Esslingen – Plochingen 0722 Stuttgart - Tubingen
111079 Plochingen – Bad Canstatt 0702 Tubingen – Stuttgart
S Bahn Bad Cantstatt – Suttgart Hbf 3km
The first 5 locos (highlighted in bold) were required for haulage, I got off at Bad Canstatt on my way back as I was running early, I hoped to pick another loco back into Stuttgart but there was nothing else about.
I took coffee & croissant back to the room for Colleen’s breakfast, time for a shower and shave for me.
The Christmas market here has a very sociable 10am opening so took the U Bahn to Charlottenplatz, roughly where we had got to the night before. First up was an Antique indoor market on Karlsplatz where we found many tree decorations from yesteryear, some of which we recognised from our parents & Grandparents trees.
Then a short walk to Markplatz, full of row after row of stalls. The Kirchengemeinde S. Mitte Stiftskirche (Grand Chuch) overlooking the square was playing Christmas carol tunes on its arrangement of ancient bells, very nice.
On one of the stalls we found some very cute hand sewn Xmas Rats, we didn’t buy one but later on decided we would, if possible, when back in Stuttgart on Sunday.
We went into the very well to do Merz & Benzing department store and up to Karl’s Kitchen (probably so named as it looks out over Karlsplatz) on the top floor.
She had an Earl Grey tea, I thought I’d try ½ litre of draft Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0 (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) a nice version of the style. We had a nice leisurely break.
We ventured back out to look round the remaining stalls, we had run out of steam a bit as 280 stalls is one BIG Xmas market.
Something worth a special mention at Stuttgart Xmas market is the great efforts the stallholders put in to make the roofs of the wooden huts as Christmassy as the contents of the stalls themselves, something neither of us could recollect seeing before. We assume there must be a prize for the best design, with so much effort having been put in by so many? It gives an extra dimension to the market, you’ve got to remember to step back and look up occasionally though!
We returned to the Hbf on the U bahn and returned to the hotel to collect our cases from the luggage storage room before going to the platform for our 14:58 IC train to Kempten (Allgau) our base for the next 3 days.
This is where things went wrong, we had reserved seats in 1st class but the train was 180minutes late. No problem according to the DB website as an Ersatzzug (additional train to replace the late running train) was shown running to Kempten instead.
This then changed to a different additional train, still departing at 1458. However by 1500, with no train in the platform, nothing was now running and the website showed “alternative service ICE to Ulm for local train to Kempten” meaning a frantic change of platforms and search for a seat as we didn’t have much notice. The on-train staff soon found us 2 seats together, the only downside being the man sat directly behind us seemed to be conducting a business conference he was on his phone for most of the journey!
To compensate for all the upheaval I got a bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) from the on-train buffet, in the proper glass of course.
The local train from Ulm to Kempten was ok, at least it had a small 1st class section and we arrived into Kempten only 45 minutes later than planned.
ICE Stuttgart Hbf – Ulm Hbf 0928 Berlin Hbf – Munich Hbf
Unit Ulm Hbf – Kempten (Allgau) 1620 Ulm Hbf – Kempten Hbf
We made our way out of the station to the taxi rank, lugging 2 suitcases & my wife with a stick, just the one taxi but the driver saw us coming, he was just undoing his seatbelt to get out and open the boot when a bloke ran past me, jumped in the passenger seat and nicked it !
This act of kindness wasn’t appreciated by the “already late and would like to get to the hotel” twosome now without a taxi. Stood there for about 10 minutes then gave up and got the next bus into the town centre, we didn’t have any problems working out where to get off to walk to the hotel but we would rather not have needed to!
We had booked 3 nights at the Allgau Art Hotel (Alpenstrasse 9 · 87435 Kempten) in Kempten (Allgau), recently built and as the name suggests very smart with some nice design touches. Huge glass sliding doors on the bathroom walk in shower, backlighting behind the bed and with a very smart foyer and Restaurant.
As this our first chance of the trip to unpack the suitcases properly we tackled this task first, not really enough hangers in the wardrobe of course, followed by a little breather. No need to venture far for a meal with the Restaurant downstairs in full swing – we were given a nice table for two near the picture windows to the back of the room.
I decided to go for the local speciality of “Zwiebelrostbraten vom Allgäuer Weiderind” (fried beef and onions in gravy with red-wine-sauce, fried onions and cheese spaetzle) for 19.80 Euro. My wife picked Schnitzel “Wiener Art” (bread-crumbed and fried pork scallop with french fries and cranberry sauce) for 9.90 Euro.
I drank a couple of ½ litres of draft Erdinger Weissbier with the meal. We both decided the food wasn’t as good a we’d thought it would be.
It was now about 2030 so after a brief return to the room I headed out to try to find some pubs, though I soon realised this was a bit hopeful. Everywhere I tried was either a high end food type pub or closed!
After a fair wander I did go for a beer in Zum Stift, (Stiftsplatz 1 · 87439 Kempten) the Allgauer Brewery Tap (although the brewery relocated out of the town some years ago) where, perhaps unsurprisingly, the breweries full range of beers was available either on draft or in bottle form. I had a draft Allgauer Buble Bier Urbayrisch Dunkel 5.3% , which was easier to drink than pronounce (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd), followed by a draft Furstabt Hefeweizen 5% a good example of its style (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
I had caught a bus into the town centre from near our hotel but they had stopped running by this time, whilst walking back I saw a lit sign down a side street and decided it might just be a pub. On closer inspection it was “Chaplin” (Poststrasse 23 · 87439 Kempten) a proper “boozer” in my vocabulary or “dive” if my wife was present. I intimated towards the draft beer pumps to the barmaid so thought I knew what I was getting – however what I got was Allgauer Yrtyp Export lager 5.3%! Even after 30 years of visiting Germany for beer I can still get poured the wrong drink! At least it was a lot better than I thought it would be. After this I retired to the hotel.
Thursday 06/12/18 Five months of planning and I get it wrong
I fully intended to get up early to go to the railway station to travel behind some 218 diesel locos but didn’t sleep well, first night in a different bed etc. I was awake at 2am so decided to turn off my alarm which was set for 0515 in an attempt to catch up on some sleep.
We went down for breakfast (included in the room booking) in the restaurant. The breakfast was good, hot bacon and scrambled eggs, a wide selection of cold meats and cheeses, local yoghurts and mixed fruit and finally plenty of different loaves and bread rolls.
The best thing though was the modern automated coffee machine serving the best cappuccino we have ever had with a German breakfast. Not difficult as it’s the first time we’ve had cappuccino with one, over the years it’s always been the strong percolated coffee neither of us like. This enabled me to make a weaker version for my wife and a normal one for me, making breakfast a very pleasant affair all round.
There were some nice Christmas decorations both on the tables and around the room.
We walked into the main shopping area which starts just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel at the Allgauer Forum, a big modern shopping centre. We left this for another day walking down the hill onto the main high street.
We window shopped down Bahnhofstrasse then continued across the road to Fischerstrasse, this being the start of the pedestrianised town centre, with mainly smaller, quirkier shops. We went into a very interesting stationers with all sorts of stock that opened out inside to tardis like proportions, some very nice items – we had a good wander around. We then picked up a few items from the Yves Rocher store, including a Christmas present for our cleaner, Andrea.
After this a refreshment stop became urgently required, “there’s never a decent café when you want one”, apparently, until we came to the Centro Café Bar (Fischerstrasse 26 · 87435 Kempten) where not only was Earl Grey tea available but also a toilet. Good news all round.
I ordered an Earl Grey (for her) and a bottle of Allgauer Furstabt Hefeweizen 5.0 (for me). I rated the beer as 4.00 on Untappd, so obviously as good from a bottle as on draft the night before.
After a nice little breather we carried on down the pedestrianised streets, mainly window shopping, slowly winding our way down towards the main church which has the square housing Kempten’s Christmas market. “The biggest Xmas market in the Allgau” was in fact quite small!
Not disheartened by this we looked around and it’s here we made our main purchase of the trip, from a stall selling handmade metal Christmas iron wear, ours being a 2ft tall, flame effect cut out, large candle holder. It was definitely a stall with a difference and unlike any we saw at the other Xmas markets we visited on our trip.
Just the problem of how to get it through the Eurostar X-ray machines at Paris Nord on the way home then…..
We only wanted a light lunch but there was nothing suitable near the market, I spotted that the No6 bus would take us back up to the Forum shopping centre, we hadn’t been for a look around it yet but figured there would be some food outlets inside.
A helpful local told me (in German) to buy a family ticket, this proved good value at 4.40 Euro and valid all day for us both. Two singles to the Forum would have cost 3.20 Euro and we would be using the bus again later to get to the railway station.
We decided we had time to explore the stores on the ground floor before going back to the hotel to get ready for our trip out to Kaufering & Fussen Christmas markets.
A bus to the station followed by:
ER20-001) Kempten (Allgau) – Kaufbeuren 1358 Lindau – Munich 43km
223071 ) (Top & Tail both powering)
The idea here was to visit the Christmas market for about an hour then catch a train down the branch line to Fussen, the nearest town to the famous Neuschwanstein Castle, for the first night of Fussen’s Xmas market.
Unfortunately Colleen wasn’t up to the 700metre walk from Kaufering railway station to the town centre so I asked which bus stop is for the town centre but after 20 minutes nothing had turned up so it became a pointless exercise (we had also arrived over 15 minutes late off the train) this wasn’t going to be a highlight of our trip so we retired to the station buffet (Bahnhofskiosk) where it was warm and refreshments were available. I had planned to re-visit Kaufbeuren the following day (on our way back from Augsburg) so we would make do with that instead.
Saddened as we were by the turn of events I relaxed over a quick couple of bottles of Augustiner Lagerbier Hell 5.2%, again served in the proper glass and a personal favourite of mine (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) whilst we waited.
218 424 Kaufbeuren – Fussen 1551 Munich – Fussen 43km
These loco hauled services were set to finish just two days later so this was my last chance to travel over the route before the unit invasion at the weekend, this being part of the reason for the whole trip.
We walked out of Fussen station to find the town to have some of the nicest Christmas illuminations we’ve ever seen, simple but elegant designs with a host of real Xmas trees up and down the streets all twinkling away.
We found the main pedestrianised street and made our way towards the square which hosts the Xmas market here. Empty! Yes I’d got it wrong – it starts on Friday 9th i.e. tomorrow.
While I was planning the trip I now remember checking the dates so I’d pencilled it in to do all this on the Friday; however at some point I thought the late finish Friday and early start Saturday would be too much for Colleen. So I changed the order around to give a more reasonable finish on the Friday, obviously forgetting the raison d'être for my original plan. Doh!
All was not lost as we now had time to find somewhere for a long dinner stop. We ended up at Zum Franziskaner (Kemptner Strasse 1 · 87629 Füssen). The somewhat disgruntled better half was looking through the menu when I admitted to my error over the dates; this cleared the air so we could enjoy the meal.
I had expected to find Franziskaner brewery beers here (going by the name!) but this was not the case. Instead they had Paulaner beers on tap so I started with ½ litre of Paulaner Original Munich Hell 4.9% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
We ordered our food, a large bowl of pork Goulash for me and Spätzle with fried onions for Colleen. The Goulash was great, I also ended up eating about half of her meal as she wasn’t too keen on it, so she ordered a Strudel to follow which was the nicest of the whole trip so that made up for not enjoying her main meal.
I enjoyed the first Munich Hell so had another, followed by a ½ litre of Paulaner Weissbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) as we had plenty of time to while away due to my error. On enquiring over the bill I was informed that the establishment was cash only, so I got directions to the nearest cashpoint to get some more Euro’s – it was a good job we still had plenty of time then!
A stroll back to the station for the 2033 back down the branch line to Biessenhofen, however the driver didn’t seem to be in any rush so we were about 7 minutes late by Marktobersdorf, the only other sizeable town on the line.
I had a word with the Guard as our booked connection forward to Kempten only gave us 4 minutes to change trains she said it would be Ok. As we arrived into Biessenhofen our onward train also arrived – right across the far side of the four platform station. I realised our only hope of avoiding a near 2 hour wait here (in the middle of nowhere) for the next train was to leave Colleen to make her own way through the subway and for me to leg it !
I got to the rear sliding door of the train, opened it, and then kept one leg in the door and one on the platform until she arrived. It was yet again too close for comfort and left her completely knackered, good job we had 20 minutes or on the train to recover.
218415 Fussen - Biessenhofen 2033 Fussen - Kaufering 40km
Unit Biessenhofen – Kempten (Allgau) 2043 Augsburg – Kempten 40km
We had learnt from our previous attempt to catch a taxi from Kempten station – we made sure no-one nicked our taxi to the hotel this time!
Friday 07/12/18 A very good “Bashing” day on the trains for me
After failing to get up early the previous day to indulge in my other hobby of “Bashing” trains, in which I have been involved for the past 40 years, travelling behind as many different locomotives as possible and also over as many different routes as possible.
It is a hobby that has taken me the length & breath of Britain ,Germany & Austria with many forays into France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Poland, the former Yugoslavia then more recently Slovenia & Croatia, with a special mention to Greece, especially the metre gauge Peloponnese routes south of Athens.
Up before the larks at 0500 I managed to get dressed and out of the room without overly disturbing Colleen. 12 minute walk to the station as too early for the bus.
I was hoping for a class 218 diesel on the 0546 departure, the train is booked to be a newer class 245 diesel (which are as dull as dishwater) but recent reports had shown the train to be getting a class 218 quite regularly.
It soon became apparent that I was in luck with 218 497 bringing the train in from the sidings. Kempten is the main train Depot in this part of Bavaria, another reason I decided to stay here, as well as the fact that in all my visits since August 1989 I had never actually been outside the station!
218497 Kempten – Kaufering 0546 Kempten – Munich 51km
Unit Kaufering – Turkheim 0622 Munich – Memmingen xxxkm
218420 Turkheim – Buchloe 0655 Memmingen – Munich 8km
218423) Buchloe – Kempten (Allgau) 0714 Munich – Zurich 63km
218403)
The EC (Eurocity) train from Munich to Zurich is booked a pair of 218’s from the depot at Muhldorf (a town about 60miles to the east of Munich) and I had my fingers crossed as it arrived, only needing one loco based at the depot, this being 218403! Result, it’s only taken me 29 years to clear the depots locos. The engine hadn’t been reported as working these services for quite a while so I was very pleased.
I was also impressed to see 218429 on another service at Buchloe, my last Kempten based loco which by diagram meant it would be working one of the trains we would be on later in the day. It seemed too good to be true, let’s see what happens later!
The run back to Kempten was in daylight, the fantastic countryside with the snow-capped mountains off to the left as a backdrop reminding me of the many times I’ve travelled around here over the years behind a myriad of 218 locos.
I walked back to the hotel then up to the room to shower before breakfast, we sat at a different table this morning, and the Cappuccino’s went down well after my very early start.
We had pencilled in having a look round C&A’s this morning, a chain sorely missed back home. Good quality clothes with decent prices, our two grandkids have benefitted from our visits to their stores over the years. We picked up a couple of things for them and Colleen almost got a new coat, it wasn’t quite right after trying it on a few times.
We caught a bus from the bus station, again buying a Family ticket, then our IC (Intercity) train to the city of Augsburg, our main Christmas market destination today.
218435 Kempten – Augsburg 0941 Oberstdorf – Augsburg 103km
Once again DB had let the side down, the First class coach had been detached as defective, and this meant no drinks or refreshments on board, as the Buffet occupies half of the 1st class coach!
This wouldn’t do at all; I could do with a beer to sip while watching the Bavarian scenery rolling past the window. We were sat in the front coach behind the loco (as always) so I could hear the engine performing and as it had been empty on arrival at Kempten. A group of 8 or so football fans had also joined at Kempten, they had two crates of beer with them, and I approached them to see if I could buy a bottle off them – I got a beer no problem, but they wouldn’t take any cash for it. C’est la vie.
Meckatzer Weiss-Gold 5.2% (which I rated at 3.25 on Untappd) pretty euro-fizzy but I was a Beggar so couldn’t be a chooser!
On arrival at Augsburg Hbf the place was a building site (which I’d been warned about online) we followed signs for the lift but there wasn’t one - it must have been removed! More steps down to the subway and out the other side; then we weren’t sure where to catch the tram from, again the building works getting in the way.
It may have helped if I’d ever been outside Augsburg station but it was another of those places I’ve travelled from many times but never left the station, such is my hobby. Too many trains and too little time!
We took Tram line 3 to Konigsplatz for line 2 to Rathausplatz which houses Augsburger Christkindlesmarkt. We perused up and down the first two rows of stalls in the square then decided we needed a cuppa and a sit down, so headed away from the square slightly along Bahnhofstrasse until we found Café Dichtl, a lovely patisserie and chocolatier with a cosy seating and dining room. We had a cappuccino and a pot of Earl Grey tea to accompany a scrumptious cake each, the best cakes of the whole trip.
After using the rest rooms we paid up and gave our table to a waiting couple, it had become very busy since we’d arrived. We got back to the Xmas market and carried on from where we’d got to previously.
No rooftop decorations to the wooden stalls here, unlike in Stuttgart, though we had noticed some of the stalls in Kempten had been decorated in this way.
We purchased a few snowflake decorations (to replace some well-worn ones at home) and almost made a bigger purchase at another stall but were just put off by the price. The main reason we hadn’t been on a Christmas market trip like this for a few years being that they have tended to price themselves too high these days (compared to what you can get back home).
Although the market’s website showed streets going off from the main square with further stalls on, these in reality were very few and far between. I suggested going to a brewpub then looking round these other streets, or instead leaving Augsburg 2 hours earlier than planned and perhaps stopping off to look round Kaufbeuren Xmas market which we had failed to get to the day before.
Colleen decided on the latter option, still feeling the effects of the previous days exertions. So we again took the tram back to the main station where we walked along platform 1 until we came to the 1516 Brewpub which occupies part of the main station building. Here I sampled a guest beer, Fuldabrucker Landbrauerei “Schnelles Helles” 4.8% (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd) a decent “waiting room” in which to avoid the shambles caused by all the building work.
As we’d failed miserably to find the lifts on our arrival we decided to try the other subway at the north end of the platforms, this turned out to be using the tunnels I suspect the post office would have used previously, a very long walk and again with no disabled access from the station itself so steps involved again (although a wheelchair user could get dropped off by car if anyone knew which side street to use!). It then became apparent our train would be leaving from the very south end of the platform (thanks…) and due to the lack of access everyone was stood in the same part of the platform, near the other subway.
Another mad scramble to join the train, glad we hadn’t waited for the “rush hour” train we’d originally planned on. The expected traction on this train, 218429, which I’d seen earlier in the day at Buchloe, had mysteriously tuned into 218414! Oh dear, that’s a bit disappointing. At least there was an outside chance of picking up 429 on a train later, with a little luck?
By the time we were approaching Buchloe, where this time we needed to change trains, Colleen had decided not to bother with Kaufbeuren Xmas market, she was worn out – we’d go back to the hotel for a break, then look round the other 2 floors in the Forum shopping centre back in Kempten.
We had a booked cross platform, no hassle connection here (for a change), once on the other train I thought I would walk through to check the loco number but there was no chance of this due to a large group of Japanese all trying to get their luggage stowed away! At least they’d get to see Fussen Xmas market, unlike us last night.
We were only on this train as far as Kaufbeuren so a quick walk down the platform to view the loco number – Yes! It’s 218429 at last. Kempten and Muhldorf depot’s cleared on the same day, I texted a couple of friends to let them know my good fortune and they couldn’t believe my luck either!
The train forward from here to Kempten was from the same platform, saving Colleens legs a little this time. Back in Kempten the bus was most welcome back to the hotel.
218414 Augsburg – Buchloe 1415 Augsburg – Buchloe 40km
218429 Buchloe – Kaufbeuren 1352 Munich – Fussen 12km
Unit Kaufbeuren – Kempten 1430 Augsburg – Lindau 43km
An easy Friday teatime stroll around the shops in the Forum shopping centre followed, very pleasant and unhurried, unlike some experiences we’ve had in Meadowhall!
We ended up in the Nordsee fast food place again as we’d enjoyed the food yesterday, Sole with fried potatoes this time. I again had a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
We finished with a bit of a supermarket sweep in the DM superstore on the ground floor where you can pick things up at a fraction of the Xmas market prices, basically little treats to add to Grandkids and others presents.
We managed to get back to the hotel before the heavens opened, ok for Colleen who was having an evening in but not me, I was going to search for more pubs, if any were to be found in this “one pub” town.
I had spotted the recently refurbished “Allgauer Brauhaus” not far from the Forum, so I walked there to have a look, online info being sadly lacking. However, this turns out to house possibly the biggest Chinese restaurant I have ever seen, not a brewery.
Another long walk round followed, I finally decided to head to the Goldene Traube (Memminger Str. 7 · 87439 Kempten) where they actually had a long curved bar for people to sit round and drink. I had another ½ litre of the Furstabt Hefeweizen 5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
I then took a stroll in the pouring rain, I deliberately walked back a different way on the off chance of finding another bar. I found a rough & ready dive, next to a small casino, but while inside waiting to be served a drunk dropped a glass & it all got a bit frenetic so I gave up and moved on – I’m glad that I did as I then came across “Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Musics” (Kotterner Strasse 62 · 87435 Kempten) part of the bigBox Allgau music venue & hotel.
This was as upmarket as our hotel, with a long bar along which people were sat drinking, so I joined them. I was in luck as Meckatzer Hefeweizen 5.2% was on draft, a Bavarian beer I didn’t think I would get to try as their only tied house in town appears to have closed down. I settled down, a chance to dry off and with pleasant bar staff who were happy to have a natter with you. I eventually had 3 ½ litres of the Meckatzer, the final one with an Isle of Jura “Superstition” malt whisky chaser.
A bit exuberant, at 10.50 Euro it worked out about the same price as all 3 beers added together!
It was back out into the rain on my way to the hotel; however the bigBox venue is directly behind the Forum shopping centre so it was only about a 7 minute walk.
Saturday 08/12/18 A Scenic journey to Lindau & Bregenz
After an early breakfast, at 0730, it was time to check out of the Art Hotel then a taxi to the railway station with our suitcases. The journey from Kempten through the mountains and hills down to Lindau on Lake Konstanz (or Bodensee) is a memorable one, which I was really looking forward too.
The early (depart Kempten 0841) EC train to Zurich is the only one that runs this way each day with 218’s, so was a must do.
218423) Kempten (Allgau) – Lindau 0714 Munich – Zurich 89km
218403)
421379 Lindau – Bregenz 0714 Munich – Zurich 10km
The same pair of loco‘s as the previous day, no problem as I no longer had any new 218’s available in the area, and had only had 218403 for the first time yesterday.
Once again this journey is a constant roll-by of scenic view after scenic view, I would highly recommend it. In the front coach, weaving through mountain passes and emerging onto views over green valleys (normally all covered in snow at this time of year), fantastic.
We rolled into Lindau, with views of the lake, where the train reverses and Swiss electric loco 421379 dropped onto the other end to take the train forward to Zurich.
It is only a ten minute run from Lindau to Bregenz, this being in Austria (Germany, Austria & Switzerland all border onto the lake).
Bregenz is a relatively small Austrian town, I can say it is somewhere I’d already been further than the train station before, having visited a Brewpub here in 2002.
After leaving the cases in a Left Luggage locker it was only a 5 minute walk to get to the pedestrianised town centre.
We had a look around a couple of shops before making our way to the Christmas market, not the biggest, but our only Austrian one on this trip. It ran along both sides of Kornmarktstrasse, we didn’t find anything we wanted to buy here though.
After our early start we needed something to put us on, we found a bakery with a café where we had Earl Grey tea and shared a slice of pepperoni pizza.
We made our way back to the station and got the cases from the luggage locker, I noticed that the only Austrian EC train of the day to Lindau was slightly late so we could catch this, an unexpected extra loco for me.
1144 121 Bregenz – Lindau 0854 Innsbruck – Lindau 10km
As we were now running early, I had a look at the train info and the next train to Wasserburg was in 40 minutes. So I adjourned to the station imbiss for a ½ litre of draft Paulaner Original Munich Hell 4.9% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd). The barmaid was so old and frail looking it seemed a strain to hold the glass up to fill it, she seemed to know everyone in the bar though – I wonder how long she’s worked here? She may well have served me when I had a beer here in the early 1990’s!
Unit Lindau – Wasserburg 1237 Lindau –Freidrichshafen 6km
This was the “Surprise“ romantic hotel of our trip, the Schloss Hotel Wasserburg (Halbinselstrasse 78 · 88142 Wasserburg), in a former castle right on the shores of the lake itself. In the holiday season you can catch ferries to destinations all around the lake from the harbour right next to the hotel.
As this is NOT the holiday season, I found myself trying to lug the suitcases along the quaint cobbled streets from the station – these pavements look nice but are not suitcase friendly! We soon came to the Tourist Information office (closed) but with a touch-screen computer with all the local info – this had an error message on the screen. You couldn’t make it up etc.!
With no taxi numbers to be had I rang the hotel and explained our situation – could they book a taxi to bring us to their hotel from the Tourist Information office? No problem of course, very shortly a woman hopped out of a mini-van and informed us she was the Chef at our hotel and had been sent to pick us up. Apparently all the taxis around here come from Lindau, from where we’d just come by train!
As we’d arrived somewhat earlier than planned we avoided any possible queues at check-in time, we didn’t give the spiral stairway up through a former castle tower a second glance, instead going to the very small lift just past it. I managed to get Colleen and 1 case in, I told her to call out when she got out on the 3rd floor so I could recall it and bring up the 2nd case with myself.
It was a good sized room, we were on the lake side of the Schloss, and the window looked straight out towards the lake. I had hoped to take a ferry from here to Lindau later to visit the famous harbour side Christmas market, all part of the romantic vibe I was trying to imbue. In true fashion, however, it’s only December through to the end of February when that’s not possible.
We were feeling peckish, but with neither of us fancying a full meal, we decided to wait until the restaurant closed as from 1400 until 1700 they do a “snack” menu instead.
I went down to the bar just before 1400 and had a ½ litre of draft Paulaner Weissbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and picked up a couple of the snack menus to take back to the room. We both opted for a bowl of chips with tomato sauce, in the event these also came with mayonnaise, we ate laid on the bed in true decadent fashion.
The hotel was, indeed, a romantic setting, but what would we do later? The only option was seemingly a taxi all the way to Lindau & return if we wanted to see the market, she thought it would probably be too expensive, but I reasoned my original plan of a ferry Bregenz – Wasserburg Hafen (next to the hotel) then a ferry back into Lindau would have cost us 30 Euros anyway, so why not?
So I rang the Lindau taxi firm (the number was listed in the hotel information folder) and booked one for 1600, this would ensure all the illuminations would be on when we arrived in Lindau Xmas market. The taxi duly arrived on time, we took a meandering route skirting around the lake through the back streets of Wasserburg and Lindau, I was pleased to see it came to 21 Euro so we weren’t breaking the bank.
We were both glad we had made the effort, Lindau’s Christmas market is great, spread all along the harbour in front of all the well-to-do posh hotels. Lindau is on an Island, it’s basically developed outwards over the years from where the 3 countries railway lines meet at the station and the Lakes Ferry routes meet in the harbour right next door.
It was for this reason I had looked outside the old centre for a hotel, the mainland hotels being much cheaper. The posh hotels here were asking upwards of £250 a night, this being peak Xmas market weekend, whereas ours was still 4 star but only about £90.
Many of the stalls here did feature rooftop decorations, a la Stuttgart, we both feel this adds something to the experience. The taxi driver had forewarned us that the market was “packed”, no problem though for us seasoned campaigners.
We worked our way along the harbour side edge of the stalls, nicely illuminated statues in the harbour, due to the large crowds it took quite a while to work down these two rows of stalls. At the very far end was a quiet street leading into the old town, we took this to find somewhere for a bevvy and warm up – it was the chilliest evening of the trip and our first chance to wear some of the warm clothes we’d been unable to wear all week due to the unseasonably warm weather.
We came across Osteria Shardana (Vordere Metzgergasse 18 · 88131 Lindau (Bodensee)) here I tried a small draft Max Leibinger Pilsner 4.9% (which I rated at 3.25 on Untappd). We found somewhere to sit, it was lovely and warm and we made use of the toilets.
Then back to the Xmas market, handily we came back along a different street which also had a few stalls and brought us back to directly where we’d left off before.
It probably took us another half hour to look around the rest of the stalls, the crowds had thinned out a bit, apart from around the food and drink stalls, which we avoid anyway as prefer to drink indoors.
We exited the market and had a choice; either locate one of the bars I had looked up online for a drink or get a taxi back to our hotel and go for a drink there. As we were walking past the rank when a taxi turned up, we decided to jump in. We took a different route back but there was only about an extra Euro involved so it still worked out ok.
Entrance to the Schloss Hotel Wasserburg
We ended up in the Nordsee fast food place again as we’d enjoyed the food yesterday, Sole with fried potatoes this time. I again had a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
We finished with a bit of a supermarket sweep in the DM superstore on the ground floor where you can pick things up at a fraction of the Xmas market prices, basically little treats to add to Grandkids and others presents.
We managed to get back to the hotel before the heavens opened, ok for Colleen who was having an evening in but not me, I was going to search for more pubs, if any were to be found in this “one pub” town.
I had spotted the recently refurbished “Allgauer Brauhaus” not far from the Forum, so I walked there to have a look, online info being sadly lacking. However, this turns out to house possibly the biggest Chinese restaurant I have ever seen, not a brewery.
Another long walk round followed, I finally decided to head to the Goldene Traube (Memminger Str. 7 · 87439 Kempten) where they actually had a long curved bar for people to sit round and drink. I had another ½ litre of the Furstabt Hefeweizen 5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
I then took a stroll in the pouring rain, I deliberately walked back a different way on the off chance of finding another bar. I found a rough & ready dive, next to a small casino, but while inside waiting to be served a drunk dropped a glass & it all got a bit frenetic so I gave up and moved on – I’m glad that I did as I then came across “Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Musics” (Kotterner Strasse 62 · 87435 Kempten) part of the bigBox Allgau music venue & hotel.
This was as upmarket as our hotel, with a long bar along which people were sat drinking, so I joined them. I was in luck as Meckatzer Hefeweizen 5.2% was on draft, a Bavarian beer I didn’t think I would get to try as their only tied house in town appears to have closed down. I settled down, a chance to dry off and with pleasant bar staff who were happy to have a natter with you. I eventually had 3 ½ litres of the Meckatzer, the final one with an Isle of Jura “Superstition” malt whisky chaser.
A bit exuberant, at 10.50 Euro it worked out about the same price as all 3 beers added together!
It was back out into the rain on my way to the hotel; however the bigBox venue is directly behind the Forum shopping centre so it was only about a 7 minute walk.
Saturday 08/12/18 A Scenic journey to Lindau & Bregenz
After an early breakfast, at 0730, it was time to check out of the Art Hotel then a taxi to the railway station with our suitcases. The journey from Kempten through the mountains and hills down to Lindau on Lake Konstanz (or Bodensee) is a memorable one, which I was really looking forward too.
The early (depart Kempten 0841) EC train to Zurich is the only one that runs this way each day with 218’s, so was a must do.
218423) Kempten (Allgau) – Lindau 0714 Munich – Zurich 89km
218403)
421379 Lindau – Bregenz 0714 Munich – Zurich 10km
The same pair of loco‘s as the previous day, no problem as I no longer had any new 218’s available in the area, and had only had 218403 for the first time yesterday.
Once again this journey is a constant roll-by of scenic view after scenic view, I would highly recommend it. In the front coach, weaving through mountain passes and emerging onto views over green valleys (normally all covered in snow at this time of year), fantastic.
We rolled into Lindau, with views of the lake, where the train reverses and Swiss electric loco 421379 dropped onto the other end to take the train forward to Zurich.
It is only a ten minute run from Lindau to Bregenz, this being in Austria (Germany, Austria & Switzerland all border onto the lake).
Bregenz is a relatively small Austrian town, I can say it is somewhere I’d already been further than the train station before, having visited a Brewpub here in 2002.
After leaving the cases in a Left Luggage locker it was only a 5 minute walk to get to the pedestrianised town centre.
We had a look around a couple of shops before making our way to the Christmas market, not the biggest, but our only Austrian one on this trip. It ran along both sides of Kornmarktstrasse, we didn’t find anything we wanted to buy here though.
After our early start we needed something to put us on, we found a bakery with a café where we had Earl Grey tea and shared a slice of pepperoni pizza.
We made our way back to the station and got the cases from the luggage locker, I noticed that the only Austrian EC train of the day to Lindau was slightly late so we could catch this, an unexpected extra loco for me.
1144 121 Bregenz – Lindau 0854 Innsbruck – Lindau 10km
As we were now running early, I had a look at the train info and the next train to Wasserburg was in 40 minutes. So I adjourned to the station imbiss for a ½ litre of draft Paulaner Original Munich Hell 4.9% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd). The barmaid was so old and frail looking it seemed a strain to hold the glass up to fill it, she seemed to know everyone in the bar though – I wonder how long she’s worked here? She may well have served me when I had a beer here in the early 1990’s!
Unit Lindau – Wasserburg 1237 Lindau –Freidrichshafen 6km
This was the “Surprise“ romantic hotel of our trip, the Schloss Hotel Wasserburg (Halbinselstrasse 78 · 88142 Wasserburg), in a former castle right on the shores of the lake itself. In the holiday season you can catch ferries to destinations all around the lake from the harbour right next to the hotel.
As this is NOT the holiday season, I found myself trying to lug the suitcases along the quaint cobbled streets from the station – these pavements look nice but are not suitcase friendly! We soon came to the Tourist Information office (closed) but with a touch-screen computer with all the local info – this had an error message on the screen. You couldn’t make it up etc.!
With no taxi numbers to be had I rang the hotel and explained our situation – could they book a taxi to bring us to their hotel from the Tourist Information office? No problem of course, very shortly a woman hopped out of a mini-van and informed us she was the Chef at our hotel and had been sent to pick us up. Apparently all the taxis around here come from Lindau, from where we’d just come by train!
As we’d arrived somewhat earlier than planned we avoided any possible queues at check-in time, we didn’t give the spiral stairway up through a former castle tower a second glance, instead going to the very small lift just past it. I managed to get Colleen and 1 case in, I told her to call out when she got out on the 3rd floor so I could recall it and bring up the 2nd case with myself.
It was a good sized room, we were on the lake side of the Schloss, and the window looked straight out towards the lake. I had hoped to take a ferry from here to Lindau later to visit the famous harbour side Christmas market, all part of the romantic vibe I was trying to imbue. In true fashion, however, it’s only December through to the end of February when that’s not possible.
We were feeling peckish, but with neither of us fancying a full meal, we decided to wait until the restaurant closed as from 1400 until 1700 they do a “snack” menu instead.
I went down to the bar just before 1400 and had a ½ litre of draft Paulaner Weissbier 5.5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and picked up a couple of the snack menus to take back to the room. We both opted for a bowl of chips with tomato sauce, in the event these also came with mayonnaise, we ate laid on the bed in true decadent fashion.
The hotel was, indeed, a romantic setting, but what would we do later? The only option was seemingly a taxi all the way to Lindau & return if we wanted to see the market, she thought it would probably be too expensive, but I reasoned my original plan of a ferry Bregenz – Wasserburg Hafen (next to the hotel) then a ferry back into Lindau would have cost us 30 Euros anyway, so why not?
So I rang the Lindau taxi firm (the number was listed in the hotel information folder) and booked one for 1600, this would ensure all the illuminations would be on when we arrived in Lindau Xmas market. The taxi duly arrived on time, we took a meandering route skirting around the lake through the back streets of Wasserburg and Lindau, I was pleased to see it came to 21 Euro so we weren’t breaking the bank.
We were both glad we had made the effort, Lindau’s Christmas market is great, spread all along the harbour in front of all the well-to-do posh hotels. Lindau is on an Island, it’s basically developed outwards over the years from where the 3 countries railway lines meet at the station and the Lakes Ferry routes meet in the harbour right next door.
It was for this reason I had looked outside the old centre for a hotel, the mainland hotels being much cheaper. The posh hotels here were asking upwards of £250 a night, this being peak Xmas market weekend, whereas ours was still 4 star but only about £90.
Many of the stalls here did feature rooftop decorations, a la Stuttgart, we both feel this adds something to the experience. The taxi driver had forewarned us that the market was “packed”, no problem though for us seasoned campaigners.
We worked our way along the harbour side edge of the stalls, nicely illuminated statues in the harbour, due to the large crowds it took quite a while to work down these two rows of stalls. At the very far end was a quiet street leading into the old town, we took this to find somewhere for a bevvy and warm up – it was the chilliest evening of the trip and our first chance to wear some of the warm clothes we’d been unable to wear all week due to the unseasonably warm weather.
We came across Osteria Shardana (Vordere Metzgergasse 18 · 88131 Lindau (Bodensee)) here I tried a small draft Max Leibinger Pilsner 4.9% (which I rated at 3.25 on Untappd). We found somewhere to sit, it was lovely and warm and we made use of the toilets.
Then back to the Xmas market, handily we came back along a different street which also had a few stalls and brought us back to directly where we’d left off before.
It probably took us another half hour to look around the rest of the stalls, the crowds had thinned out a bit, apart from around the food and drink stalls, which we avoid anyway as prefer to drink indoors.
We exited the market and had a choice; either locate one of the bars I had looked up online for a drink or get a taxi back to our hotel and go for a drink there. As we were walking past the rank when a taxi turned up, we decided to jump in. We took a different route back but there was only about an extra Euro involved so it still worked out ok.
I ordered the first of several ½ litres of draft Paulaner Weissbier 5.5% I was to imbibe and sat looking out over the lake, a tree outside the restaurant was decorated with large Xmas baubles and lights. On the journey back I had noticed something lit up down a small lane leading further along the shoreline. I got a map up on my phone, I could see several restaurants locally, then I found what I’d seen – Hegestrand 3 (Mooslachenstr. 3 · 88142 Wasserburg (Bodensee)), a modern “trendy” type bar and supposedly still open. I sent a text to Colleen (she’d retired to the room by this time) I walked round to the pub. Indeed it was open, a couple of dozen people in (though most were finishing off meals), some were just drinkers though. I settled at a raised table opposite the main bar and was pleased to see draft beers from Edelweissbrauerei Farny, from Kisslegg in Bavaria, as I’ve never tried their beers before. I started with Paul’s Pale Ale (ABV NA), described as special beer Pale Ale (not Helles) and it was nice! I rated it 4.00 on Untappd.
Hegestrand 3 bar (they were setting up for thefollowing days breakfast)
I then tried the Farny Edelweiss/Hefeweizen 5.3%, not as good (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd) then had a bag of peanuts washed down by a bottle of Farny Alt-Durrener-Wiesse which I ordered during last orders at the bar (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd). An unexpected end to the day, I rolled back to the hotel and up to bed.
Sunday 09/12/18 Transit to Stuttgart for Esslingen Medieval Market
I had once again managed to book a “Super Sparpreis” ticket from Kempten to Paris (through the DB website) for 39 Euro, including 2 breaks allowed on route of up to 48hours, and I again upgraded to 1st class throughout for an extra 10 Euros each.
We had hoped to take a gentle stroll, after breakfast, to the local train station in Wasserburg but awoke to the sound of the wind and rain battering against the window in our room.
So on our way to breakfast we asked reception to book a taxi for 0945 instead. A pleasant breakfast with nice views out the picture windows, the only downside was the cappuccino looked normal but the milk was somehow lukewarm.
Schloss Hotel Wasserburg – the view from the breakfast room.
I already knew there were ongoing major engineering works on our route towards Stuttgart (Laupheim West to Neu Ulm was closed) so I worked out an alternative journey to avoid spending 45 minutes on a bus plus a half hour wait in Neu-Ulm for the next train. So we changed trains in Aulendorf to travel via Herbertingen, Sigmaringen and Tubingen, a scenic route through parts of the Black Forest which I’d only travelled over once before. No loco hauled trains this time though.
Once again the change of trains was a bit fraught with no lifts (although the luggage conveyors did work) and with limited 1st class accommodation on the train it involved a long walk along the platform to find some empty seats.
Unit Wasserburg – Freidrichshafen 0931 Lindau – Freidrichshafen 18km
245035 Freidrichshafen – Aulendorf 1031 Freidrichshafen-LaupheimWest 41km
Unit Aulendorf – Stuttgart Hbf 1104 Aulendorf – Stuttgart (approx.)184km
The train from Aulendorf followed a nice scenic route but a journey of over two & half hours with no refreshments was a bit long. Good job we’d had breakfast!
We walked to the Inter City hotel once again and checked in, the clerk crossed out our room number and gave us a different room, much roomier than our stay the week before. The weather had improved but there was still a light drizzle, off and on.
I nipped to the Spar shop on the concourse, some plasters for Colleens poorly feet, then picked up a large sausage in bread bun with ketchup and a hot cappuccino – she really enjoyed them so I got the same on my way to do a special train, being run between the Xmas markets in Esslingen and Ludwigsburg by a local railtour operator / enthusiasts group.
I had been informed by a friend earlier in the week about these additional trains running, a preserved electric loco one end & 212 309 on the other end. I’d never travelled behind this 212 before so I took the opportunity for a quick leap. It was very pleasant sat in the buffet car, directly behind the loco, drinking a bottle of local Hofbrau Bugel Premium 5.5% which I purchased on the train.
212309 Stuttgart Hbf – 1511 Stuttgart – Ludwigsburg 15km
Stuttgart Zuffenhausen
S Bahn S.Zuffenhausen – Stuttgart Hbf 1503 Weil der Stadt – S.Schwabstrasse 15km
I’d rung Colleen, she was waiting on the concourse when I got there, then we were on our way to Esslingen for their 2 Christmas markets, one of which has a medieval theme.
146207 Stuttgart Hbf – Esslingen 1601 Stuttgart – Neu-Ulm xxxkm
It’s only 10minutes from Stuttgart on the train then a straight, flat walk from Esslingen station. Unfortunately the rain was by now persistent so we arrived at the market a bit soggy, although far from being soaked, and then the rain fortunately eased off.
We found the market here to be a proper, old school affair, lots of stalls with a wide variety of crafts and products. It is as good a Xmas market as you’ll find anywhere and that’s just the normal part, before getting into the medieval section where all the traders dress in medieval style, lots of throwback stalls featuring swords, shields, longbows etc.
There were also modern Art stalls in the Rathaus, featuring local artists, and then the stalls led us to a section in a road underpass where you could participate in various games of skill, archery, a form of bowls plus several child orientated games stalls, great to see and watch various people trying their hand at them.
All in all a memorable place, and with all the buildings around these streets fitting into the medieval timeframe, I would definitely recommend a visit if your ever in Stuttgart at this time of year.
We’d worked up an appetite, I spotted a pub/restaurant just across from the last few stalls we looked around back in the normal part of the market. This was Hendlburg, I had a ½ litre of Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), she had a black tea (with milk). I decided on a “Hendlburg cheeseburger” with fries and Colleen had the Apple Strudel with ice cream. She wanted to sit for a warm and a rest so I had another Hefe-Weizen. Then back to the station for:
146217 Esslingen – Stuttgart Hbf 1730 Ulm – Stuttgart xxxkm
I was looking to find the Schoenbuch brewpub, I followed directions on my phone but couldn’t find it, I was somewhere near so tried the Palast de Republik , a large kiosk style bar in the middle of the pavement. The Dinkelacker-Schwaben brewery Cluss Kellerpils Naturtrub 5% on draft (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) was a good find, I enjoyed it.
Whilst supping I worked out where the brewpub was, through a small passage between 2 shops opposite the bar, it then opened out onto a small square with the brewpub on one side. The Schoenbuch is a big place, mainly a big foodhall type area but with separate high tables for drinking on the side of the building housing the bar.
Unfortunately I tried the Naturtrub Kellerbier 4.8% but found it to be very bland, unappealing even, so I didn’t try anything else, just payed and moved on.
I then decided to visit Carls Brauhaus on Schlossplatz, only a few minutes’ walk, not a brewpub as the name implies, but actually a showcase for the big Dinkelacker brewery.
It was much better than I’d thought, quite well done and with a decent area for the drinker. I had a draft Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0 (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) knowing that I like it, followed by a draft Kellerbier 5/6% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
I headed back towards the station; I decided to give Café Ritazza a try. Unlike in th UK, this one serves 3 draft beers! So I had a ½ litre of Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier Naturtrub 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), I’ve drank this many times before but not since I joined Untappd in Janaury 2017, it seems.
I still seemed thirsty, most of the concessions on the station were now closing up, so across the road to the Blockhouse, a steak house and bar, still with many customers inside. Here I had a ½ litre of draft Stuttgarter Hofbrau Malteser Weissbier Hefe Hell 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) all in all a good day & evening.
Monday 10/12/18 Escape from Stuttgart !
I had discovered, during the course of the weekend, that due to a pay dispute with DB, the Signalman’s union had called a strike for this morning. The DB website suggested it would mainly be centred in the Rhur area, it would run from 0500 until 1000. This would be the first strike on the German rail network since 2015, thanks then!
Unperturbed I got up at 0530 anyway, off to try to get a few new locos. A few trains arrived, I watched a couple of longer distance trains leave with passengers on.
Then while sat on the 0601 departure I heard a load of whistles and klaxons start going off, a bit early for football fans? No – it’s the Signaller’s, parading about and letting everyone know they meant business with placards, banners and the like. That was it, no other trains moved!
I managed to avoid the clamour as they stormed around the station, instead opting to go back to the hotel and bed. I just hoped that our 1054 ICE train to Strasbourg and Paris wouldn’t be affected.
I got back up later and went down for coffees and croissants to take back to the room for breakfast, I had a look up at the train departure boards and it was just a long list of cancelled trains, oh well.
I dashed off on the U bahn to Charlottenplatz to try to purchase one of the Christmas Rats we had spotted the week before, as the stalls open at 10am there was a chance I had time to get one. I worked out which stall it was, even though the shutters were still down and I even helped a Chinese women open her stall, she wasn’t tall enough to lift the shutters up and fix them in position above the stall. The “Rat” stall in question finally opened, I had the correct money so “Earl Grey the Rat” was soon in my pocket, then a quick journey back on the U bahn.
Earl Grey gets used to his new surroundings in our house.
We checked out at 1030, another couple of free 6 inch chocolate Santa’s into the case.
Looking up at the screen our train was, of course, cancelled!
Out with my phone and onto the DB website, I worked out that a previous train, a French TGV that should have departed at 0910, was on the run a couple of hours late and should leave from the same platform as our cancelled train.
As these are international trains they are normally announced in German, French and English. With the chaos going on we only got announcements in German, not much use to us or the Japanese couple on the platform. I assured them they were in the right place, showing them on my phone that there would be a train. It was not showing on the departure boards, so you would never have known. Finally it came up on the screen a few minutes before arriving and we were on our way, sat in First class on a fairly empty train and only about 30 minutes later than our cancelled booked train.
TGV Stuttgart – Strasbourg 0646 Munich – Paris xxxkm
Of course, for passengers who were already on board, the train was a good 2 ½ hours late by now. A British couple boarded at Karlsruhe, they were booked on our original train too and were in a bit of a panic. I assured them they were fine, all seat reservations were cancelled so just sit anywhere. I’ve never been so relieved to leave Germany!
We had a simple plan on arrival into Strasbourg; drop the bags off at Left Luggage (as check in at the hotel didn’t open til 1400) and head off to the Xmas markets – there are 10 of these in the self-titled “Capital of Christmas” so we wanted to make a start.
This all fell at the first hurdle, on entering through the door into Left Luggage a big woman sat behind the counter shouted out “we are full” a couple of times then waved her arms about to get rid of us. Thanks then, welcome to France.
This development left us with little option than to take a taxi to the hotel and hope we could deposit the bags there a couple of hours before official “check-in” time. The taxi driver was happy until we told him our hotel was the City Residence (1 rue des Magasins, 67000 Strasbourg) “but it’s only a few minutes” he said. I said you try it with 2 large cases, a wife with a walking stick – and it’s raining. Unappeased he tried to make it a James Hunt-esque drive down the road, too many traffic lights for that mate!
He even bumped up the metre by a couple of Euro’s just before we got to the hotel.
I can tell you, it would have been a 15 minute walk for Colleen, we know as we did it the next day!
Happy to get out of the taxi outside the hotel, we found reception is closed daily from 1200 til 1400 for “Lunch”. Welcome to France indeed!
It was about 1250 so I decided “If you can’t beat them, join them”, let’s find somewhere to sit down and eat while we wait for reception to re-open. For once we went in the right direction and I spotted the Brasserie La Solidarite, a friendly and busy place on a big street corner. We stuck the cases out of everyone’s way and were soon sat at a table for two with a menu to peruse.
I had a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), then I chose the Chicken Caesar Salad, Colleen had the Burger with fries.
The best thing in France is often the food and La Solidarite certainly didn’t disappoint. My meal was fresh, the chicken was hot, and there was plenty of it! I had another ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier to wash it down. The desserts other people were having looked good, but not being able to work out the options, in French, we didn’t try one.
We returned to the hotel, where reception was now open, we were soon checked in and upstairs in our room. A quick turn round to get back out and finally start on the Christmas market-a-thon. We picked up a map from reception and walked to the nearest tram stop. This turned out to be a waste of time: they miss out the two stops in the old town, while the Xmas markets are on, for security reasons.
The only access to the centre of the city is on foot, across one of the many bridges, all of which have security staff on duty. So after a run through the middle, non-stop, on our tram, we walked back in to start looking round the market on Place Broglie. This is a big market, one of the main two in Strasbourg, so we had a good look around.
One stall was selling huge slabs of handmade Nougat, 4 or 5 different flavours, you chose the amount you wanted and then they cut that off for you – with some difficulty as we witnessed!
We then walked down the pedestrianised Rue du Dome towards the Cathedral, passing the spectacular rue des Hallebardes, with its magnificent crystal chandeliers hanging in glass boxes above the street. We actually skirted round the market at the Cathedral, just looking at the stalls on that side, as we had decided to go for a drink and cake (in lieu of the dessert we’d not had earlier).
We came to Place Gutenberg, which has a small charity Xmas market, about 20 feet from there we found Café Stein Patissier (29 rue du Vieux Marche aux Poissons, 67000 Strasbourg). This had some of the nicest looking cakes we’d seen – and they didn’t disappoint. I had a small, draft Meteor Pils 5.0%, my only Eurofizz of the whole trip (I only rated it 2.50 on Untappd), she had an Earl Grey tea.
The cakes really were good, hand crafted little works of art to look at and very tasty too.
Replenished, we walked down the road to the Place de Chateau, another Xmas market, with stalls surrounded by half-timbered houses, decorated with teddy bears and festive garlands, this links back around to the market at the Cathedral.
Teddy Bear Tastic!
By now darkness had fallen and the illuminations were spectacular, varied and quite magical in places. We crossed the river to the illuminated Place de Corbeau then down a pedestrianised street to Place d’Austerlitz. Tiredness had definitely set in, we needed a sit down and refreshments.
Molly Malones (1 Place D Austerlitz, 67000 Strasbourg) was on the square, as we were stood outside I decided it would do (I normally steer clear of “Irish” pubs abroad), however the beer range was decent, I chose a large draft Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
Not exactly Colleen’s sort of place, I was soon asked to hurry up and drink up! She had a good idea – let’s see if we can get a bus back to the hotel.
I looked at the city map, it looked like the road running past the square would take traffic the 2km’s or so round towards the railway station. Sure enough on checking the nearest bus stop she was correct and for a couple of Euro’s each the No10 bus would get us back to the hotel. We even managed to alight at the nearest stop to the hotel, as I spotted the Brasserie we’d dined in earlier as the bus was approaching it.
I was going back out to sample some of Strasbourg’s pubs and brewpubs, I hadn’t been looking forward to walking all the way down & back – the answer was now obvious, just take the No10 bus back towards Place d’Austerlitz , then all the pubs could be done while working my way back towards the hotel.
You would think I would struggle to do all this before the pubs closed, but no – even on a Monday the earliest any of the ones I was interested in closes is 1am!
I got off the bus near to where I’d worked out I would find my first port of call, Au Brasseur brewpub (22 Rue des Veaux). The place was heaving; I did well just to get a stool at the bar.
I tried their draft Brune de Quai 4.8% (which I rated at 4.25 on Untappd), a very nice brown ale. I followed that with their draft Biere De Noel 4.8%, which like many of the UK’s Christmas one-off’s wasn’t as good (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
I then made my way to the Academie de la Biere Cathedrale (29 Rue des juifs), with a long row of draft beers on the bar. To say it was busy is an understatement – I was squeezed in by the bar staff, standing room only. I had a ½ litre of Orange Mecanique 7.0%, a Belgian Tripel by Brasserie Saint Cru in Colmar, France (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
The next port of call was Brasserie de la Lanterne (5 rue de la Lanterne), I didn’t realise it brewed its own beer until I saw the brewing equipment in the pub. I asked the barman to recommend 1 of their beers – his favourite was the Strato 5.2%, so I had a ½ litre of the same. It’s described as a sour, Flanders red ale (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd). A very sociable pub with a mixed clientele, good atmosphere and not wedged out like the previous two.
Brasserie la Lanterne showing the Brewing vessels
I would have loved to try another, however I realised I was somewhat the worse for wear, I’d had a few higher gravity beers today. Best move on, get a bit nearer to the hotel and try to find my final port of call – the Brasserie Kohler Rehm, (13 Rues des Grandes Arcades). I don’t quite recall how, but I found myself stood outside the pub!
Just myself and one other customer downstairs at the bar, although you could hear that there were people upstairs in the dining area. I had a draft Blonde Printemps Abv N/A, again brewed on the premises (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
It was a toss-up who was in the worst state out of the two of us, we got our beers at the same time, he finished first – so it was probably me.
I managed to walk back to the hotel ok; I think I got a little lost at one point, but no drama’s ensued.
Tuesday 11/12/18 Homeward bound from Strasbourg
I would just like to firstly remember those who lost their lives here later this day, and offer condolences to their loved ones, in the tragedy of the shootings which started about 1900 in the evening. It would be the next day before we found out about them.
As is my want, I was up at 0545 to head to the railway station in the hope of travelling on the 0623 to Lauterbourg & back behind a class 67 diesel loco. This was not to be, it was a unit. Someone the following week reported he had a diesel on it, a friend of mine the week after also suffered a unit, so very hit and miss.
Strasbourg is a major location on the French rail network, it still uses a small fleet of old electric locos, Class 25’s, on some local services. I decided to travel behind a couple of these instead.
25679 Strasbourg – Mommenheim 0623 Strasbourg – Saverne xxxkm
25602 Mommenheim – Strasbourg 0646 Saverne – Strasbourg xxxkm
It can be very frustrating trying to find a decent sized cappuccino or latte in France, after a wander I did find a Starbucks, no problem getting a large latte and warm croissant here to take back to the room.
We had a very relaxed morning, the Xmas markets do not open until 1200, and our train departs at 1219 so nothing doing. It was going to be a long journey anyway, so we opted to rest up. No need to annoy any more taxi drivers, last checkout was 1100 so plenty of time to then amble to the station, albeit with the 2 cases in tow.
We popped into a shop to get some sweets to nibble on the journey, then we retired to Meet & Go, a large food and drink “waiting room” on the station. Ideal to while away an hour, I had a small Affligem Blonde 6.8% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and she had a coffee. “Look at you, the only one in here drinking” she said. I pointed out an empty Affligem glass had been on our table when we sat down!
Fortunately by the time I finished sipping my beer, which was very nice, several other people in the room were drinking various beers, so no reason not to have another!
Our train was on-time, but suddenly got delayed ten minutes somewhere outside the station; at least we were actually stood in just the right place to board for our seats.
ICE Strasbourg – Paris l’Est 1054 Stuttgart – Paris 504km
I got a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) from the on-train buffet, again in the proper glass, and then settled down to read my book.
An on time arrival into Paris l’Est, Colleen tried to find a path around the wall of smokers stood outside the exit, but alas she still ended up coughing and spluttering off the cigarette smoke. We again walked to Paris Nord via the Rue de Saint-Quentin, definitely the quietist route - which I would recommend after trying it both ways now.
We had, on the strength of our nice meal the previous week, again booked a table L’Etoile du Nord by Thierry Marx (by platform 19 on the concourse at Nord).
No queue today and we were ushered straight to our table. However we couldn’t really get to the table due to the large number of suitcases clustered around the next table with about 10 people on it. Why couldn’t they use the area provided, where I’d just deposited our cases – oh, they are French of course.
We both opted for a Main and Dessert from the Plat du Jour, today the main being Duck Breast with an assiette of veg, or Cod Loin. We asked how the Duck would be cooked - “rare”- so could we please have it done medium instead? I had a bottle of Isabeau 6.0% by Brasserie Artemus from Val-de-Marne France (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
The meals arrived, the Duck was rare. You can’t get the better of a French chef.
After fighting with our duck, the desserts came and were nothing special either. A disappointment compared to our previous experience but I still tipped the waiter about 8 Euros – well he doesn’t cook the food!
We had passed a decent looking Brasserie just across the road from Nord, I’d noticed they had about 12 draft beers on the bar, 3 or 4 of which were alright so thought we’d have a drink in there. However Colleen asked if we could get through Customs etc and into the Eurostar lounge instead. I agreed with the idea that I should still be able to get a bevvy.
This is no longer the case, the kiosk formerly housing said bar now sells perfume. I had a stroll around, a couple of places sold cans of Heineken – then I spotted the furthest one had a pump for Affligem! Can I have an Affligem please - “No it’s not on we’ve only got Heineken” ta then I will have to have a Red wine as there is no beer!
The wife was informed that if we ever pass through Paris again, we WILL NOT check in for the Eurostar early – the previous London train hadn’t even departed yet, we were that early.
Once we had left Paris on the Eurostar I got two 330ml cans of BrewDog Punk IPA 5.6% from the on board buffet (I’ve never drank any Brewdog beers before, not agreeing with their previous “Real Ale is outdated” stance, though I have read recently that they are soon going to produce Real Ales themselves after a rethink) and settled down to finish my book.
Eurostar Paris Nord – St.Pancras 1713 Paris Nord – St.Pancras 495km
We had a choice of either 30 or 90 minutes at St.Pancras for trains to Sheffield, by the time we reached the barriers we only had about 5mins before the Sheffield train departed, so a bit out of puff when we got to a coach with some seats left in it.
We were running a little late until stopping just outside Sheffield, “awaiting a platform” came the announcement. We rolled into the station with nary another train in sight – including our connection which had departed 1 minute before…..
Unit St.Pancras – Sheffield 1901 St.Pancras – Sheffield (due 2123) 165miles
A new timetable had started on Sunday, our train used to depart at 2141 (which we would have made) but now goes at 2135 (which we missed) and the next one is at 2218.
“Time for a pint in the Sheffield Tap my dear!” at least it’s a) accessible from the platform b) warm & c) does a huge range of Beers – even if it is the most expensive pub in Sheffield.
I had a pint of their own Tapped Brew Co Porter 5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), the nicest beer I’ve had from their brewery.
Unit Sheffield – Barnsley 2112 Nottingham – Leeds 16miles
For a taxi home, we were in through the front door at 2300. The journey home across Europe never seems as exciting as the journey there!
Conclusion’s and thoughts on the trip
We had decided to only use rail travel on this trip, mainly to avoid the many hours you always have to spend in airports if you choose to fly. Overall getting to & from Germany proved straightforward, the short notice strike we encountered in Germany notwithstanding.
Stuttgart's Christmas market was extensive, very well presented and easy to get round, with great local transport links. Staying at the DB IC Hotel helped with this as you get a free local transport ticket for the duration of your stay. This came in handy later in the trip when we visited the excellent Medieval market in Esslingen.
The lack of snow in Bavaria was a surprise (we've always had snow at this time of year on previous Xmas market trips) but the scenery was still great. Lindau Christmas market was lovely in the evening.
Finally Strasbourg, with it's myriad of Christmas markets, was beautifully done and even though it was full of fellow Christmas marketgoers it was a lovely place to visit. We saw about half of it's ten markets so we may well visit again.Sometimes all this typing gets me thirsty! Buy me a Beer?
I then tried the Farny Edelweiss/Hefeweizen 5.3%, not as good (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd) then had a bag of peanuts washed down by a bottle of Farny Alt-Durrener-Wiesse which I ordered during last orders at the bar (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd). An unexpected end to the day, I rolled back to the hotel and up to bed.
Sunday 09/12/18 Transit to Stuttgart for Esslingen Medieval Market
I had once again managed to book a “Super Sparpreis” ticket from Kempten to Paris (through the DB website) for 39 Euro, including 2 breaks allowed on route of up to 48hours, and I again upgraded to 1st class throughout for an extra 10 Euros each.
We had hoped to take a gentle stroll, after breakfast, to the local train station in Wasserburg but awoke to the sound of the wind and rain battering against the window in our room.
So on our way to breakfast we asked reception to book a taxi for 0945 instead. A pleasant breakfast with nice views out the picture windows, the only downside was the cappuccino looked normal but the milk was somehow lukewarm.
I already knew there were ongoing major engineering works on our route towards Stuttgart (Laupheim West to Neu Ulm was closed) so I worked out an alternative journey to avoid spending 45 minutes on a bus plus a half hour wait in Neu-Ulm for the next train. So we changed trains in Aulendorf to travel via Herbertingen, Sigmaringen and Tubingen, a scenic route through parts of the Black Forest which I’d only travelled over once before. No loco hauled trains this time though.
Once again the change of trains was a bit fraught with no lifts (although the luggage conveyors did work) and with limited 1st class accommodation on the train it involved a long walk along the platform to find some empty seats.
Unit Wasserburg – Freidrichshafen 0931 Lindau – Freidrichshafen 18km
245035 Freidrichshafen – Aulendorf 1031 Freidrichshafen-LaupheimWest 41km
Unit Aulendorf – Stuttgart Hbf 1104 Aulendorf – Stuttgart (approx.)184km
The train from Aulendorf followed a nice scenic route but a journey of over two & half hours with no refreshments was a bit long. Good job we’d had breakfast!
We walked to the Inter City hotel once again and checked in, the clerk crossed out our room number and gave us a different room, much roomier than our stay the week before. The weather had improved but there was still a light drizzle, off and on.
I nipped to the Spar shop on the concourse, some plasters for Colleens poorly feet, then picked up a large sausage in bread bun with ketchup and a hot cappuccino – she really enjoyed them so I got the same on my way to do a special train, being run between the Xmas markets in Esslingen and Ludwigsburg by a local railtour operator / enthusiasts group.
I had been informed by a friend earlier in the week about these additional trains running, a preserved electric loco one end & 212 309 on the other end. I’d never travelled behind this 212 before so I took the opportunity for a quick leap. It was very pleasant sat in the buffet car, directly behind the loco, drinking a bottle of local Hofbrau Bugel Premium 5.5% which I purchased on the train.
212309 Stuttgart Hbf – 1511 Stuttgart – Ludwigsburg 15km
Stuttgart Zuffenhausen
S Bahn S.Zuffenhausen – Stuttgart Hbf 1503 Weil der Stadt – S.Schwabstrasse 15km
I’d rung Colleen, she was waiting on the concourse when I got there, then we were on our way to Esslingen for their 2 Christmas markets, one of which has a medieval theme.
146207 Stuttgart Hbf – Esslingen 1601 Stuttgart – Neu-Ulm xxxkm
It’s only 10minutes from Stuttgart on the train then a straight, flat walk from Esslingen station. Unfortunately the rain was by now persistent so we arrived at the market a bit soggy, although far from being soaked, and then the rain fortunately eased off.
We found the market here to be a proper, old school affair, lots of stalls with a wide variety of crafts and products. It is as good a Xmas market as you’ll find anywhere and that’s just the normal part, before getting into the medieval section where all the traders dress in medieval style, lots of throwback stalls featuring swords, shields, longbows etc.
There were also modern Art stalls in the Rathaus, featuring local artists, and then the stalls led us to a section in a road underpass where you could participate in various games of skill, archery, a form of bowls plus several child orientated games stalls, great to see and watch various people trying their hand at them.
All in all a memorable place, and with all the buildings around these streets fitting into the medieval timeframe, I would definitely recommend a visit if your ever in Stuttgart at this time of year.
We’d worked up an appetite, I spotted a pub/restaurant just across from the last few stalls we looked around back in the normal part of the market. This was Hendlburg, I had a ½ litre of Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), she had a black tea (with milk). I decided on a “Hendlburg cheeseburger” with fries and Colleen had the Apple Strudel with ice cream. She wanted to sit for a warm and a rest so I had another Hefe-Weizen. Then back to the station for:
146217 Esslingen – Stuttgart Hbf 1730 Ulm – Stuttgart xxxkm
I was looking to find the Schoenbuch brewpub, I followed directions on my phone but couldn’t find it, I was somewhere near so tried the Palast de Republik , a large kiosk style bar in the middle of the pavement. The Dinkelacker-Schwaben brewery Cluss Kellerpils Naturtrub 5% on draft (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) was a good find, I enjoyed it.
Whilst supping I worked out where the brewpub was, through a small passage between 2 shops opposite the bar, it then opened out onto a small square with the brewpub on one side. The Schoenbuch is a big place, mainly a big foodhall type area but with separate high tables for drinking on the side of the building housing the bar.
Unfortunately I tried the Naturtrub Kellerbier 4.8% but found it to be very bland, unappealing even, so I didn’t try anything else, just payed and moved on.
I then decided to visit Carls Brauhaus on Schlossplatz, only a few minutes’ walk, not a brewpub as the name implies, but actually a showcase for the big Dinkelacker brewery.
It was much better than I’d thought, quite well done and with a decent area for the drinker. I had a draft Sanwald Hefe-Weizen 5.0 (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) knowing that I like it, followed by a draft Kellerbier 5/6% (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
I headed back towards the station; I decided to give Café Ritazza a try. Unlike in th UK, this one serves 3 draft beers! So I had a ½ litre of Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier Naturtrub 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), I’ve drank this many times before but not since I joined Untappd in Janaury 2017, it seems.
I still seemed thirsty, most of the concessions on the station were now closing up, so across the road to the Blockhouse, a steak house and bar, still with many customers inside. Here I had a ½ litre of draft Stuttgarter Hofbrau Malteser Weissbier Hefe Hell 5.0% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) all in all a good day & evening.
Monday 10/12/18 Escape from Stuttgart !
I had discovered, during the course of the weekend, that due to a pay dispute with DB, the Signalman’s union had called a strike for this morning. The DB website suggested it would mainly be centred in the Rhur area, it would run from 0500 until 1000. This would be the first strike on the German rail network since 2015, thanks then!
Unperturbed I got up at 0530 anyway, off to try to get a few new locos. A few trains arrived, I watched a couple of longer distance trains leave with passengers on.
Then while sat on the 0601 departure I heard a load of whistles and klaxons start going off, a bit early for football fans? No – it’s the Signaller’s, parading about and letting everyone know they meant business with placards, banners and the like. That was it, no other trains moved!
I managed to avoid the clamour as they stormed around the station, instead opting to go back to the hotel and bed. I just hoped that our 1054 ICE train to Strasbourg and Paris wouldn’t be affected.
I got back up later and went down for coffees and croissants to take back to the room for breakfast, I had a look up at the train departure boards and it was just a long list of cancelled trains, oh well.
I dashed off on the U bahn to Charlottenplatz to try to purchase one of the Christmas Rats we had spotted the week before, as the stalls open at 10am there was a chance I had time to get one. I worked out which stall it was, even though the shutters were still down and I even helped a Chinese women open her stall, she wasn’t tall enough to lift the shutters up and fix them in position above the stall. The “Rat” stall in question finally opened, I had the correct money so “Earl Grey the Rat” was soon in my pocket, then a quick journey back on the U bahn.
We checked out at 1030, another couple of free 6 inch chocolate Santa’s into the case.
Looking up at the screen our train was, of course, cancelled!
Out with my phone and onto the DB website, I worked out that a previous train, a French TGV that should have departed at 0910, was on the run a couple of hours late and should leave from the same platform as our cancelled train.
As these are international trains they are normally announced in German, French and English. With the chaos going on we only got announcements in German, not much use to us or the Japanese couple on the platform. I assured them they were in the right place, showing them on my phone that there would be a train. It was not showing on the departure boards, so you would never have known. Finally it came up on the screen a few minutes before arriving and we were on our way, sat in First class on a fairly empty train and only about 30 minutes later than our cancelled booked train.
TGV Stuttgart – Strasbourg 0646 Munich – Paris xxxkm
Of course, for passengers who were already on board, the train was a good 2 ½ hours late by now. A British couple boarded at Karlsruhe, they were booked on our original train too and were in a bit of a panic. I assured them they were fine, all seat reservations were cancelled so just sit anywhere. I’ve never been so relieved to leave Germany!
We had a simple plan on arrival into Strasbourg; drop the bags off at Left Luggage (as check in at the hotel didn’t open til 1400) and head off to the Xmas markets – there are 10 of these in the self-titled “Capital of Christmas” so we wanted to make a start.
This all fell at the first hurdle, on entering through the door into Left Luggage a big woman sat behind the counter shouted out “we are full” a couple of times then waved her arms about to get rid of us. Thanks then, welcome to France.
This development left us with little option than to take a taxi to the hotel and hope we could deposit the bags there a couple of hours before official “check-in” time. The taxi driver was happy until we told him our hotel was the City Residence (1 rue des Magasins, 67000 Strasbourg) “but it’s only a few minutes” he said. I said you try it with 2 large cases, a wife with a walking stick – and it’s raining. Unappeased he tried to make it a James Hunt-esque drive down the road, too many traffic lights for that mate!
He even bumped up the metre by a couple of Euro’s just before we got to the hotel.
I can tell you, it would have been a 15 minute walk for Colleen, we know as we did it the next day!
Happy to get out of the taxi outside the hotel, we found reception is closed daily from 1200 til 1400 for “Lunch”. Welcome to France indeed!
It was about 1250 so I decided “If you can’t beat them, join them”, let’s find somewhere to sit down and eat while we wait for reception to re-open. For once we went in the right direction and I spotted the Brasserie La Solidarite, a friendly and busy place on a big street corner. We stuck the cases out of everyone’s way and were soon sat at a table for two with a menu to peruse.
I had a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), then I chose the Chicken Caesar Salad, Colleen had the Burger with fries.
The best thing in France is often the food and La Solidarite certainly didn’t disappoint. My meal was fresh, the chicken was hot, and there was plenty of it! I had another ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier to wash it down. The desserts other people were having looked good, but not being able to work out the options, in French, we didn’t try one.
We returned to the hotel, where reception was now open, we were soon checked in and upstairs in our room. A quick turn round to get back out and finally start on the Christmas market-a-thon. We picked up a map from reception and walked to the nearest tram stop. This turned out to be a waste of time: they miss out the two stops in the old town, while the Xmas markets are on, for security reasons.
The only access to the centre of the city is on foot, across one of the many bridges, all of which have security staff on duty. So after a run through the middle, non-stop, on our tram, we walked back in to start looking round the market on Place Broglie. This is a big market, one of the main two in Strasbourg, so we had a good look around.
One stall was selling huge slabs of handmade Nougat, 4 or 5 different flavours, you chose the amount you wanted and then they cut that off for you – with some difficulty as we witnessed!
We then walked down the pedestrianised Rue du Dome towards the Cathedral, passing the spectacular rue des Hallebardes, with its magnificent crystal chandeliers hanging in glass boxes above the street. We actually skirted round the market at the Cathedral, just looking at the stalls on that side, as we had decided to go for a drink and cake (in lieu of the dessert we’d not had earlier).
We came to Place Gutenberg, which has a small charity Xmas market, about 20 feet from there we found Café Stein Patissier (29 rue du Vieux Marche aux Poissons, 67000 Strasbourg). This had some of the nicest looking cakes we’d seen – and they didn’t disappoint. I had a small, draft Meteor Pils 5.0%, my only Eurofizz of the whole trip (I only rated it 2.50 on Untappd), she had an Earl Grey tea.
The cakes really were good, hand crafted little works of art to look at and very tasty too.
Replenished, we walked down the road to the Place de Chateau, another Xmas market, with stalls surrounded by half-timbered houses, decorated with teddy bears and festive garlands, this links back around to the market at the Cathedral.
By now darkness had fallen and the illuminations were spectacular, varied and quite magical in places. We crossed the river to the illuminated Place de Corbeau then down a pedestrianised street to Place d’Austerlitz. Tiredness had definitely set in, we needed a sit down and refreshments.
Molly Malones (1 Place D Austerlitz, 67000 Strasbourg) was on the square, as we were stood outside I decided it would do (I normally steer clear of “Irish” pubs abroad), however the beer range was decent, I chose a large draft Grimbergen Blonde 6.7% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
Not exactly Colleen’s sort of place, I was soon asked to hurry up and drink up! She had a good idea – let’s see if we can get a bus back to the hotel.
I looked at the city map, it looked like the road running past the square would take traffic the 2km’s or so round towards the railway station. Sure enough on checking the nearest bus stop she was correct and for a couple of Euro’s each the No10 bus would get us back to the hotel. We even managed to alight at the nearest stop to the hotel, as I spotted the Brasserie we’d dined in earlier as the bus was approaching it.
I was going back out to sample some of Strasbourg’s pubs and brewpubs, I hadn’t been looking forward to walking all the way down & back – the answer was now obvious, just take the No10 bus back towards Place d’Austerlitz , then all the pubs could be done while working my way back towards the hotel.
You would think I would struggle to do all this before the pubs closed, but no – even on a Monday the earliest any of the ones I was interested in closes is 1am!
I got off the bus near to where I’d worked out I would find my first port of call, Au Brasseur brewpub (22 Rue des Veaux). The place was heaving; I did well just to get a stool at the bar.
I tried their draft Brune de Quai 4.8% (which I rated at 4.25 on Untappd), a very nice brown ale. I followed that with their draft Biere De Noel 4.8%, which like many of the UK’s Christmas one-off’s wasn’t as good (which I rated at 3.50 on Untappd).
I then made my way to the Academie de la Biere Cathedrale (29 Rue des juifs), with a long row of draft beers on the bar. To say it was busy is an understatement – I was squeezed in by the bar staff, standing room only. I had a ½ litre of Orange Mecanique 7.0%, a Belgian Tripel by Brasserie Saint Cru in Colmar, France (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
The next port of call was Brasserie de la Lanterne (5 rue de la Lanterne), I didn’t realise it brewed its own beer until I saw the brewing equipment in the pub. I asked the barman to recommend 1 of their beers – his favourite was the Strato 5.2%, so I had a ½ litre of the same. It’s described as a sour, Flanders red ale (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd). A very sociable pub with a mixed clientele, good atmosphere and not wedged out like the previous two.
I would have loved to try another, however I realised I was somewhat the worse for wear, I’d had a few higher gravity beers today. Best move on, get a bit nearer to the hotel and try to find my final port of call – the Brasserie Kohler Rehm, (13 Rues des Grandes Arcades). I don’t quite recall how, but I found myself stood outside the pub!
Just myself and one other customer downstairs at the bar, although you could hear that there were people upstairs in the dining area. I had a draft Blonde Printemps Abv N/A, again brewed on the premises (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd).
It was a toss-up who was in the worst state out of the two of us, we got our beers at the same time, he finished first – so it was probably me.
I managed to walk back to the hotel ok; I think I got a little lost at one point, but no drama’s ensued.
Tuesday 11/12/18 Homeward bound from Strasbourg
I would just like to firstly remember those who lost their lives here later this day, and offer condolences to their loved ones, in the tragedy of the shootings which started about 1900 in the evening. It would be the next day before we found out about them.
As is my want, I was up at 0545 to head to the railway station in the hope of travelling on the 0623 to Lauterbourg & back behind a class 67 diesel loco. This was not to be, it was a unit. Someone the following week reported he had a diesel on it, a friend of mine the week after also suffered a unit, so very hit and miss.
Strasbourg is a major location on the French rail network, it still uses a small fleet of old electric locos, Class 25’s, on some local services. I decided to travel behind a couple of these instead.
25679 Strasbourg – Mommenheim 0623 Strasbourg – Saverne xxxkm
25602 Mommenheim – Strasbourg 0646 Saverne – Strasbourg xxxkm
It can be very frustrating trying to find a decent sized cappuccino or latte in France, after a wander I did find a Starbucks, no problem getting a large latte and warm croissant here to take back to the room.
We had a very relaxed morning, the Xmas markets do not open until 1200, and our train departs at 1219 so nothing doing. It was going to be a long journey anyway, so we opted to rest up. No need to annoy any more taxi drivers, last checkout was 1100 so plenty of time to then amble to the station, albeit with the 2 cases in tow.
We popped into a shop to get some sweets to nibble on the journey, then we retired to Meet & Go, a large food and drink “waiting room” on the station. Ideal to while away an hour, I had a small Affligem Blonde 6.8% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) and she had a coffee. “Look at you, the only one in here drinking” she said. I pointed out an empty Affligem glass had been on our table when we sat down!
Fortunately by the time I finished sipping my beer, which was very nice, several other people in the room were drinking various beers, so no reason not to have another!
Our train was on-time, but suddenly got delayed ten minutes somewhere outside the station; at least we were actually stood in just the right place to board for our seats.
ICE Strasbourg – Paris l’Est 1054 Stuttgart – Paris 504km
I got a ½ litre bottle of Erdinger Weissbier 5.3% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd) from the on-train buffet, again in the proper glass, and then settled down to read my book.
An on time arrival into Paris l’Est, Colleen tried to find a path around the wall of smokers stood outside the exit, but alas she still ended up coughing and spluttering off the cigarette smoke. We again walked to Paris Nord via the Rue de Saint-Quentin, definitely the quietist route - which I would recommend after trying it both ways now.
We had, on the strength of our nice meal the previous week, again booked a table L’Etoile du Nord by Thierry Marx (by platform 19 on the concourse at Nord).
No queue today and we were ushered straight to our table. However we couldn’t really get to the table due to the large number of suitcases clustered around the next table with about 10 people on it. Why couldn’t they use the area provided, where I’d just deposited our cases – oh, they are French of course.
We both opted for a Main and Dessert from the Plat du Jour, today the main being Duck Breast with an assiette of veg, or Cod Loin. We asked how the Duck would be cooked - “rare”- so could we please have it done medium instead? I had a bottle of Isabeau 6.0% by Brasserie Artemus from Val-de-Marne France (which I rated at 3.75 on Untappd).
The meals arrived, the Duck was rare. You can’t get the better of a French chef.
After fighting with our duck, the desserts came and were nothing special either. A disappointment compared to our previous experience but I still tipped the waiter about 8 Euros – well he doesn’t cook the food!
We had passed a decent looking Brasserie just across the road from Nord, I’d noticed they had about 12 draft beers on the bar, 3 or 4 of which were alright so thought we’d have a drink in there. However Colleen asked if we could get through Customs etc and into the Eurostar lounge instead. I agreed with the idea that I should still be able to get a bevvy.
This is no longer the case, the kiosk formerly housing said bar now sells perfume. I had a stroll around, a couple of places sold cans of Heineken – then I spotted the furthest one had a pump for Affligem! Can I have an Affligem please - “No it’s not on we’ve only got Heineken” ta then I will have to have a Red wine as there is no beer!
The wife was informed that if we ever pass through Paris again, we WILL NOT check in for the Eurostar early – the previous London train hadn’t even departed yet, we were that early.
Once we had left Paris on the Eurostar I got two 330ml cans of BrewDog Punk IPA 5.6% from the on board buffet (I’ve never drank any Brewdog beers before, not agreeing with their previous “Real Ale is outdated” stance, though I have read recently that they are soon going to produce Real Ales themselves after a rethink) and settled down to finish my book.
Eurostar Paris Nord – St.Pancras 1713 Paris Nord – St.Pancras 495km
We had a choice of either 30 or 90 minutes at St.Pancras for trains to Sheffield, by the time we reached the barriers we only had about 5mins before the Sheffield train departed, so a bit out of puff when we got to a coach with some seats left in it.
We were running a little late until stopping just outside Sheffield, “awaiting a platform” came the announcement. We rolled into the station with nary another train in sight – including our connection which had departed 1 minute before…..
Unit St.Pancras – Sheffield 1901 St.Pancras – Sheffield (due 2123) 165miles
A new timetable had started on Sunday, our train used to depart at 2141 (which we would have made) but now goes at 2135 (which we missed) and the next one is at 2218.
“Time for a pint in the Sheffield Tap my dear!” at least it’s a) accessible from the platform b) warm & c) does a huge range of Beers – even if it is the most expensive pub in Sheffield.
I had a pint of their own Tapped Brew Co Porter 5% (which I rated at 4.00 on Untappd), the nicest beer I’ve had from their brewery.
Unit Sheffield – Barnsley 2112 Nottingham – Leeds 16miles
For a taxi home, we were in through the front door at 2300. The journey home across Europe never seems as exciting as the journey there!
Conclusion’s and thoughts on the trip
We had decided to only use rail travel on this trip, mainly to avoid the many hours you always have to spend in airports if you choose to fly. Overall getting to & from Germany proved straightforward, the short notice strike we encountered in Germany notwithstanding.
Stuttgart's Christmas market was extensive, very well presented and easy to get round, with great local transport links. Staying at the DB IC Hotel helped with this as you get a free local transport ticket for the duration of your stay. This came in handy later in the trip when we visited the excellent Medieval market in Esslingen.
The lack of snow in Bavaria was a surprise (we've always had snow at this time of year on previous Xmas market trips) but the scenery was still great. Lindau Christmas market was lovely in the evening.
Finally Strasbourg, with it's myriad of Christmas markets, was beautifully done and even though it was full of fellow Christmas marketgoers it was a lovely place to visit. We saw about half of it's ten markets so we may well visit again.Sometimes all this typing gets me thirsty! Buy me a Beer?
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